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Unread 10-06-2012, 11:53 PM   #1
jp360cj
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Retubing a D44 front

I wanted a D44 for the front that was wider than my narrow tracks, but not full width (was shooting for 58"-60" range) and that didn't require outboarding my front springs or custom axle shafts. The only thing I could find that would work at stock width was from an Early Bronco. And i found a good deal on a matching 9/44 combo so I picked it up. I just need to make it a PSD

I'm trying to keep cost down by reusing the tubes...what's the best way to cut the plug welds out? I've got an oxy/acetylene torch, but don't it will work w/o damaging the housing or tube. How about plasma or arc gouge? don't have either, but do have a welder that can support the arc gouge rig and they're cheaper than a plasma cutter. Or would it be best to put a carbide tip on the end grinder and eat it away?

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Unread 10-07-2012, 01:00 AM   #2
Joe Dillard
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As a possible option, perhaps you could remove the shafts etc, cut each tube where necessary leaving snubs at all ends & then sleeve the tubes making each one your desired length. Then weld on perches and shock mounts once the camber is set.

I did a similar build to a vacuum disco YJ HPD30 axle.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/h...beware-793813/
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Unread 10-07-2012, 08:11 AM   #3
jason m
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Never mind the plug welds there only there to keep the tube from ( maybe ) every twisting.
Its the press fit of the tube that would concern me and not only how to remove the tube section how do you plan on pressing new tubes in.

There set in with few thousands difference to lock them in and they use a very large press to get the tubes in the center section.
A big no no that I see some folks do is the machine a little off the end of the tube so it "slide's" in then they figure the welding the tube to the center section will do the trick, nope not going to be stronger enough.

I'm a big fan of welding the tubes to the center section, but thats when there still a factory set up, now all that extra weld has to do is "help" the tube from spinging not support the weight of the rig.

Cut and splice is the best route for the home builder, its a proven way to get the job done right. Leave maybe 1.5~2"s of OEM tube, messure the ID or drop of a section of tube to a machine shop and have them make some sleeve's that fit inside.
Bevel bolth tube's right down to the inner sleeve and weld it up.

Or drop the the axle off at a shop and have them do the tube work, but the cut and splice is a proven method of doing this type of work. I have done alot of axle's on and off road right now that are done like this with zero problems, one is even in a KOH buggy.

Jason.
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Unread 10-07-2012, 10:56 AM   #4
jp360cj
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If I cut and splice the tubes, how long does the sleeve need to be? I would assume the sleeve would need to be welded to the oem tube on both sides. Would I also need to drill the tube and plug weld to the sleeve?
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Unread 10-07-2012, 05:16 PM   #5
jason m
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I normally make the sleeves around 4"s long, no plug welds are not needed. The 100% bevel is what locks the sleeve in place, thats why the right bevels are needed.
The root pass has to penatrate threw the edges of the bevel and penertrate the sleeve in one pass, like with any weld the first pass is the most important.
Then it comes down to how confident are you in your welding skills? Done right and the beveled/weld area will be stronger than the tube its self, done wrong, well snap.

Jason.
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Unread 10-07-2012, 08:18 PM   #6
jp360cj
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My welding is marginal at best, but my dad is about as good as it gets. He'd be doing the tubes, spring perches, etc.
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Unread 10-26-2012, 12:43 PM   #7
Sundowners
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This might help or at least answer some of your questions.

Pass Drop HP

Or you can just get a early waggy 44 and cut down the long end 4". use ford outers and it will be 58.5 wms to wms.

B
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Unread 10-27-2012, 08:52 PM   #8
jp360cj
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If you cut down the waggy 44, what did you use the long side axle shaft from? Or did you have a custom one made? and did you still had to outboard springs?
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Unread 10-27-2012, 10:51 PM   #9
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Send your original long waggy shaft to Moser, they will cut it down and re-spline it for $65.

You will not have to outboard your springs. Early waggy springs are 31.5" apart. CJ's are 27.5" apart. You take 4" off of the long side, re-weld the spring perch and knuckle on, get your shaft back from moser, and you are set.
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Unread 11-18-2012, 09:53 AM   #10
82JeepCJ7
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Here is how I did it.

I used a cutting torch and burned out the plug welds. I used a porta power ram inside the housing to push out the tubes. The plug weld holes were cleaned up, and a hone was ran into the housing to clean up any burrs. The new tubes were turned down so there was about .010 more material than the housing tube hole. That way when the housing is warmed up, and the tubes are froze (shrunk) they will fit together, but when warmed it will be tight.
The end of the tubes need to be machined to accept a inner axle oil seal. Once the tubes are prepped (do not cut to length yet) I put them in the freezer overnight or longer. I used a torch and rosebud to heat the housing (just get it warm). Using think welding gloves, remove a tube from the freezer and push it into place. You may need to tap it in until its seated.
Once both tubes are in place, let the tubes come to room temp. Before you weld the rosett welds (plug welds) heat the housing up to about 250 around the hole. Weld the hole, filling to the top.
After the housing has cooled, then you can measure and cut the tubes to length.
Set your pinion angle to where you want it, then add your inner C's. Set your castor angle, tack them into place. Then weld them out. I weld them in a 4 section weld. 1/4 at a time, alternating side to side.

This is building a HP 44 rear for a flat fender. I was using a chunk of rail road iron to tap the tube into place.
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Unread 11-18-2012, 10:04 AM   #11
Sundowner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 82JeepCJ7 View Post
...You may need to tap it in until its seated...
Gently, of course. Tap gently with the rail iron.
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