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Introducing MONSTALINER™ UV Permanent DIY Roll On Bed LineNEW JK WRANGLER GRAB BARS NOW at ROCKRIDGE4WDSPARTAN LOCKERS are on sale BIG TIME at ROCKRIDGE 4WD!

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Unread 03-22-2014, 01:24 PM   #1
jho240
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2004 TJ Wrangler 
 
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Tj Redundant D30 to 44 swap question for the experts

Sorry guys, I've been a member since 2004, but cannot remember my old info. I still use the forum quite a bit, but never have to post because with enough trolling I always find what I need (Thanks to Jerry B specifically for the countless times your posts have helped me.)

I currently have the best front end on the market, the Dana 30C, with 3.73's. I have an offer for a very cheap, if not free D44 from a 2013 Rubi that was wrecked. Only damage to front end was the passenger LCA bracket was bent, which can easily be replaced. I have a few questions before I buy a front end that is only usable as a paperweight. I drive an 04 X.

1. Did Jeep widen their front end on the JK models?
2. This front ends measurments are 7.5" from end passenger side (tube) to LCA, 17.5" from pass LCA to pass side diff, LCA to LCA is 30.25", 8.5" from driver side tube end to LCA mount, and the UCA's are 19" apart.
3. My plan would be to get rid of the ARB(takers?) and regear to 4.88(overkill now, but why re-gear twice). I would then put in a detroit or something comparable.
4. The D44 does not have a yoke, but a disc that has holes in it for the D/S to mount up. If I switch R&P and carrier, can I use a yoke and stock D/S? Also seeing as I would switch the carrier and put new axles in, can I pick the spline count of my choosing?

Assuming this is doable, minus the work I already listed, are there any other significant things that would need done. For example, can I reuse my same knuckles, brakes, etc. Also if I get this, first thing I will do is take apart the carrier, and will have an ARB ready for sale/trade of parts that I will need.

As always thank y'all for your help, as this is the best forum out there!

Jordan

P.S. The P/N on the D44 is 2015396-1 7M1854AB25WO


Last edited by jho240; 03-22-2014 at 01:28 PM.. Reason: added info
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Unread 03-22-2014, 06:53 PM   #2
mattamd_xp
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You can't put a different locker except an ARB 35 spline locker (which requires custom axle shafts) into the JK Rubicon D44. The axle is wider than the TJ and has a different bolt pattern. Your knuckles/brakes don't swap over, you have to use JK parts as they use different ball joints and spacing. You can get standard pinion yokes that would work with the TJ driveshaft. The control arm mounts are usable in a TJ, but you'd need to re-locate or make new coil spring mounts. You may need to use aftermarket control arms too, I'm not sure if the bushing on the factory arms would allow alignment with the JK brackets as they are a bit different.
All that being said, I'm swapping a matching set of JK Rubicon D44's into my 2001 TJ, but I am completely removing the mounts on the axles to make my own.
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Unread 03-23-2014, 09:47 AM   #3
jho240
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O so the JK Rubi 44 will only hold an ARB? I wonder how that works. Any diff I've worked on usually will hold a variety of carriers. Well shoot I think I may just cancel that Idea then and wait for something a little closer to what I need pops up. Thanks for your help!
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Unread 03-23-2014, 12:05 PM   #4
mattamd_xp
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The factory locker and ARB are the only ones that work because the carrier is a weird offset and uses completely different bearings than a regular D44. Dana didn't even want to call the JK axles D44's because they are different than any other D44, but Chrysler wanted to be able to sell a known axle label. No one else has made one that works with it. I've read that it may be possible to use a rear TJ application D44 locker with different bearings, but I've never heard of anyone actually doing it or if it really works.
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Unread 03-24-2014, 02:21 PM   #5
StanF
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On a related note...this past weekend a Rubicon JKU spun his Driver's Side Tube in the pumpkin. It ended his day of wheeling, as you can imagine...
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Unread 03-24-2014, 05:16 PM   #6
mattamd_xp
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A good truss welded to both tubes and bolted to the center pumpkin would have prevented that from happening. It would also prevent the tubes from bending as these appear to be prone to under JK's
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Unread 03-26-2014, 07:06 PM   #7
jho240
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Thanks for all the responses guys you definitely helped me make my mind up. I found a rear D44 for 950 with 3.73, that will fit with no mod and a front with a broken end that I can salvage from my D30 for 100. The front needs axles, r&p, carrier, brakes and knuckles, which I would do anyway. The back I'm going to install right away, then start working on the front, and once she's ready to install, I'll also regear and lock the rear end. 1250 for two D44's plus about 1000 for the extra parts I'll need sure beats the 6k I was looking at when buying fully built stuff.
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Unread 03-27-2014, 07:52 AM   #8
jeepn4life92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jho240 View Post
Thanks for all the responses guys you definitely helped me make my mind up. I found a rear D44 for 950 with 3.73, that will fit with no mod and a front with a broken end that I can salvage from my D30 for 100. The front needs axles, r&p, carrier, brakes and knuckles, which I would do anyway. The back I'm going to install right away, then start working on the front, and once she's ready to install, I'll also regear and lock the rear end. 1250 for two D44's plus about 1000 for the extra parts I'll need sure beats the 6k I was looking at when buying fully built stuff.
Shopping around for deals and being patient is the name of the game with axle shopping. I'm going to be less than 3500 into me hp ford king pin dana 60 with an air actuated ox locker and geared to 5.13's and a disc brake d70 rear matching gears and a Detroit. You wouldn't even come close to the same cost if you went to ecgs and bought a bolt on d30/8.8 combo.
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