Rear Steer Dana 60 - JeepForum.com
Search  
Sign Up   Today's Posts
User: Pass: Remember?
Advertise Here
Jeep Home Jeep Forum Jeep Classifieds Jeep Registry JeepSpace Jeep Reviews Jeep Gallery Jeep Clubs Jeep Groups Jeep Videos Jeep Events Jeep Articles
Go Back JeepForum.com > General Technical Discussions > Advanced Jeep Tech > Rear Steer Dana 60

Rough Country Deals at JeepHut.comSave at JeepHut on Smittybilt Soft topsUp to $75 Cash Back on Your ARB Fridge Freezer Purchase

Reply
Unread 05-24-2013, 01:54 PM   #1
MGDWJ
Web Wheeler
 
MGDWJ's Avatar
2004 WJ 
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Amarillo, TX
Posts: 1,017
Rear Steer Dana 60

I have been tossing around the idea of changing my rear axle to a rear steer. Its a semi float c clip 35 spline dana 60. Im hung up on a few things that i dont know.
I am running dana 60's front/rear w/35spline and spools and it turns like a school bus.

1. keeping the oil in it is my main concern. was thinking about using a set of these. http://www.1speedway.com/inner_axle_seal.htm.

2. axle shaft resplining. to cut down cost a little bit I was going to try to using two dana 50 long side shafts, and having them shortened and resplined to 35 spline. its been a couple years since i have looked at a superduty dana 50 shaft so i dont remember if they are 1.5'' all the way down. i know that they neck down at the end to a 30 spline where they go into the carrier. If worst come to worst i can get custom shafts made for about $500.

I havent decided how i want to do the steering yet. obviously full hydro just havent decided single ram or double ram and a few other details.
I have most of the parts i think i will need already. just dont have the inner c and a few other odds and ends.

whats missing? what have i forgotten about? suggestions??

__________________
WJ build thread.
MGDWJ is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 05-24-2013, 06:50 PM   #2
underpowered
Bouncin' on a Budget
 
underpowered's Avatar
1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: northern kentucky
Posts: 2,602
Why not buy a 60 front and run it out back? seem to make more sense to run a front 60 out back than to convert your 60 you have to a steer axle. It is one thing to convert an axle that is not available as a steer axle already (i.e. 14FF) but to convert one that is already available in a steering setup just seems like a lot of un needed work.
__________________
1998 ZJ 2" bb and 31's. street queen but sees the woods once in a while.

2000 powerjoke tow pig

Anti-jeep--1989 K5 blazer. the new off road ride
underpowered is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 05-24-2013, 09:07 PM   #3
MGDWJ
Web Wheeler
 
MGDWJ's Avatar
2004 WJ 
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Amarillo, TX
Posts: 1,017
if i used a front axle in the rear i would need to get a chevy 60. which are about $1k around here. grind off the welds for for the inner c's and rotate them to be able to get the correct pinion angle. have to build a custom truss for the rear so i wont have to redo my suspension


If i did a 14 bolt rear steer i would definitely have to get custom shafts made, probably need to have my rear driveshaft redone new gears and either be very careful cutting brackets off or build new brackets all together.
__________________
WJ build thread.
MGDWJ is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 05-24-2013, 09:08 PM   #4
jason m
Moderator
 
jason m's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Holland mass USA
Posts: 2,842
Quote:
Originally Posted by underpowered View Post
Why not buy a 60 front and run it out back? seem to make more sense to run a front 60 out back than to convert your 60 you have to a steer axle. It is one thing to convert an axle that is not available as a steer axle already (i.e. 14FF) but to convert one that is already available in a steering setup just seems like a lot of un needed work.
Yep, its the easyest way and I did PM you my link the other night to my rear steer build.

Starting with your current axle you will need, shafts, C's, Knuckles, spindle's, SRW hubs and inner axle seals, plus hardware.

Starting with a KP chevy or the over looked Dodge KP axle's you have every part just with a offset housing which I proved like many others that its not going to be a problem in a some what slow trail rig.

Im up to a few custom rear steer axles now, I did a centerd 60, a Chevy front offset rear for me and then a Eaton HO72 with a custom inner axle seal steps which use standard 60 seals.
Buy far the Eaton was the hardest, cause I had to make a custom spool for 35 spline shafts, a line up bar and pucks and then the lay out to finsih. the Chevy was stupid easy, just install it and build the axle like you where building a front, only now its for the rear.

A 2.5" single eneded ram is all thats needed and run it off the OEM arms, dont use high steer. The rear comes under alot of turning pressure and unsuported high steer arms will break a knuckle. Plus my rear steering tube size is 2" 1/4" wall and it s for the most part protected buy the axle.

Heres my link again and some quick pics.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f369/...steer-1304160/









Happy to help, but alot of good info im my build.

Jason.
__________________
1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
jason m is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 05-24-2013, 09:20 PM   #5
jason m
Moderator
 
jason m's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Holland mass USA
Posts: 2,842
Quote:
Originally Posted by MGDWJ View Post
if i used a front axle in the rear i would need to get a chevy 60. which are about $1k around here. grind off the welds for for the inner c's and rotate them to be able to get the correct pinion angle. have to build a custom truss for the rear so i wont have to redo my suspension


If i did a 14 bolt rear steer i would definitely have to get custom shafts made, probably need to have my rear driveshaft redone new gears and either be very careful cutting brackets off or build new brackets all together.
Your going to be well over 1K with all the parts you don't have, SRW hubs are 550 new, used C's on ebay are 250-300, chevy knuckles are 200-250, spindles are atleast 100-150, then add in the custom shafts and just sourcing the used dana 50 shafts, you might be in the 400 range.
If a used Chevy 60 DRW even is 1K thats cheaper than what listed in parts above, now all you have to do is machine the DRW hubs to SRW ones and your maybe 1400 into a axle.
Yes I understand the truss work you all ready did and the 4 link tabs, but will they interfear with the new tuning raduis with rear steer now. Trust me ive done this and buy far the cheapest way to do it is a built OEM front.

Plus the inner axle seals from speedway or where every you buy them will leak over time and not a long time at that. There are ment to keep crap out of the tubes more than they are to keep oil in.

Take your time research deals, you might find a cheap 60 on the east coast, heck I just sold a bunch localy for 500-550. No SRW hubs, but still good axle's.
There are alot of axles out here and at cheap money, just have to find a good deal.

Jason.
__________________
1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
jason m is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 05-25-2013, 07:18 AM   #6
MGDWJ
Web Wheeler
 
MGDWJ's Avatar
2004 WJ 
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Amarillo, TX
Posts: 1,017
I dont think that i have enough rear drive shaft to be able to do a offset rear diff. my rear drive shaft is pretty short. dont know the exact measurement but heres a pic where you can kinda see what im working with.


I already have knuckles hubs spindles and outer shafts. granted its all ford stuff but that is what i have on the front. so other than steering stuff i would need some inner c's and shafts. i know someone locally that has both for about $200-$250.
__________________
WJ build thread.
MGDWJ is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 05-25-2013, 07:36 AM   #7
jason m
Moderator
 
jason m's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Holland mass USA
Posts: 2,842
Well you didn't say you had some parts all ready, but still its going to be some work to pull off.
My rear shaft is very short also and if you use a Chevy or Dodge 60 its only offset buy 8"s. I had to grind my cups on the yokes to get them to clear under full stuff but it works and even at some high speed burst its fine.

Do you have a line up bar? There kinda easy to make out of 1.5" 1/4 wall dom, but still one is needed. Do you have any carrier pucks for the bar to slide threw? Can you get the inner boars of the C's machined to fit the larger tube Dia of the rear 60 tube?

Again will your lower links need to moved anyways? thats the norm when most add rear steer. With a straight axle most push the lowers out as much as they can, but now you need to figure that they will need to move in atleast 5"s each side as the C and knuckle will take the spot of the old link mounts.

I know you don't want to pull the gears and locker out of the current axle, build a new truss and link tabs. But its hard to pull off what your asking with the current axle, plus you need to figure out the long list of parts and work posted above.
Like: seals, C's, line up bar, pucks, link tabs and they oh craps that pop up along the way.
Add all that up and the time to do it and its world cheaper to run a axle made for steering all ready, trust me I wanted to do the same with my 14 bolt, but this was easyer to start over and tons cheaper.
Again been here and done that....................

Jason.
__________________
1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
jason m is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 05-25-2013, 09:59 AM   #8
MGDWJ
Web Wheeler
 
MGDWJ's Avatar
2004 WJ 
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Amarillo, TX
Posts: 1,017
Jason about how long is your rear shaft? What are you considering high speed bursts? I do like to drive it like I'm in the KOH race.
I do not have a line up bar, but can make one i can also make some carrier pucks. I have access to a small lathe. As far as boring out the I.D. of the c's i know a place in town that can do it.
Now when i bring in/shorten my lower's 5'' or so how much will that affect my rear suspension?
__________________
WJ build thread.
MGDWJ is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 05-25-2013, 11:17 AM   #9
jason m
Moderator
 
jason m's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Holland mass USA
Posts: 2,842
Quote:
Originally Posted by MGDWJ View Post
Jason about how long is your rear shaft? What are you considering high speed bursts? I do like to drive it like I'm in the KOH race.
I do not have a line up bar, but can make one i can also make some carrier pucks. I have access to a small lathe. As far as boring out the I.D. of the c's i know a place in town that can do it.
Now when i bring in/shorten my lower's 5'' or so how much will that affect my rear suspension?
I will messure it and let you know but I if I had to guess 20" give or take. Ive done 25-30MPH for a long distance and other than every thing else making noise the rear was fine. Its only 8"s being offset its not that big of a deal really.

5"s will push the axle back a few inchs, this is if you keep the same lower links, the more they come inward it forces the axle back. This is the exact same problem I had with my sawp, I wanted to use the coils that were on my jeep all ready but that would of ment moving all the coils buckets back to match the link length, so air shocks went on insteed or shorten my lower links and keep the coil buckets.

Jason.
__________________
1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
jason m is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 05-25-2013, 01:51 PM   #10
MGDWJ
Web Wheeler
 
MGDWJ's Avatar
2004 WJ 
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Amarillo, TX
Posts: 1,017
i worry about the high speed stuff i do with it.
I am already sitting at 112'' WB and dont really want to be any longer. If anything a little bit shorter. but that will be saved for a different jeep.
when i get around my jeep again i will do some measuring also and run it through the program see what it will do if i shorten my lowers. ill also look and see it i can tuck the joint any closer to the tube.
__________________
WJ build thread.
MGDWJ is offline   Reply With Quote




Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation. JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.