Pitman arm help - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 12 Old 12-25-2012, 08:49 PM Thread Starter
czjeeper
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Yj Pitman arm help

'92 YJ, SUA BDS 3.5" springs, '78 F250 HP Dana 44, narrowed to Grand Wagoneer width.
Using '78 F150 knuckles.
Ruffstuff GM 1 ton "y" steering kit.
What pitman arm do I run? waggy, ford, yj?
This is a daily driver, so keeping good steering is a must!
I tried searching, but nothing came up with my situation.


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post #2 of 12 Old 12-26-2012, 11:02 AM
ratmonkey
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The length of the sector shaft to drag link end on the standard yj/tj/zj/xj/mj pitman arm is 5.5"
The d30 has a steering angle of 42 or 43 and the Ford hp44 is 45 I think.
If you were changing steering boxes there's steering angle there to consider, but with the angles the d44 & 30 can do it's pretty much a simple ratio.

Measure ball joint center to tie rod end center on both axles.
New pitman length will be yj pitman length divided by d30 ball joint length then multiplied by d44 ball joint length.
The wj is 6.25 or 6.5" and the waggy is close to 6.75" I think.
Though I'd check Mr n's site and pirate on that.

I've got btf arms and have had to make a custom arm, I used a100 3/4" plate.

Err on the side of slightly too long on the arm compared to what you really need if buyinga stock arm. Hitting the knuckle steering stop is better than bottoming out the piston in the gear box.

'97 zj 5.2, some stuff, some other suff, and some things that even work sometimes.

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post #3 of 12 Old 12-26-2012, 06:34 PM Thread Starter
czjeeper
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Cool, so I've got some measurements to take.
Also, if I use the Wagoneer pitman arm, do I get a drop pitman arm? 4" SUA lift.

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post #4 of 12 Old 12-26-2012, 07:46 PM
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I noticed that when I went to a longer pitman arm, it was easier to bind my tires against an obstacle and have no steering. This was with a flattened drop pitman arm. With the longer arm I was able to take advantage of more turning radius, but it did feel like the tires gave a lot more input to he steering wheel rather than with a TJ pitman arm on my TJ.

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post #5 of 12 Old 12-26-2012, 07:52 PM Thread Starter
czjeeper
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So, a flattened drop pitman arm...you flattened it?
Would you recommend a dropped waggy arm or a flat arm?

Quote:
Originally Posted by MisfitSeven View Post
I noticed that when I went to a longer pitman arm, it was easier to bind my tires against an obstacle and have no steering. This was with a flattened drop pitman arm. With the longer arm I was able to take advantage of more turning radius, but it did feel like the tires gave a lot more input to he steering wheel rather than with a TJ pitman arm on my TJ.

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post #6 of 12 Old 12-26-2012, 08:11 PM
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Will you be running Heim joints? I can't say what will work with your setup. I had a stack of pitman arms that I kept playing with until I found which worked better with my new front axle. I am now running a WJ pitman arm with the TRE above the arm.

Yes, I took a drop pitman arm, cut where the bends were, then pressed it flatter. It's not completely flat, more like a stock arm just longer. I achieved the same 1.5-2" drop like stock. Then welded up the V notches, and around he other side for strength. It turned out really nice actually, and it failing has never crossed my mind.

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post #7 of 12 Old 12-27-2012, 09:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MisfitSeven View Post
I noticed that when I went to a longer pitman arm, it was easier to bind my tires against an obstacle and have no steering. This was with a flattened drop pitman arm. With the longer arm I was able to take advantage of more turning radius, but it did feel like the tires gave a lot more input to he steering wheel rather than with a TJ pitman arm on my TJ.
Going with a larger bore box like a psc unit or the Durango box would get your leverage back. Or get some hydro assist going.

'97 zj 5.2, some stuff, some other suff, and some things that even work sometimes.

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post #8 of 12 Old 01-08-2013, 06:56 PM Thread Starter
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Okay, I measured the ball joint to TRE hole and I've got about 7" center to center on my F150 knuckles.
I'm guessing I want a waggy drop arm...
Any preference with any of these?:
http://www.wfoconcepts.com/pr/Superl...3163/3360/3362
http://www.wfoconcepts.com/pr/Superl...3163/3360/3361
http://4x4.fatbobsgarage.com/rough-c...kee-p6462.aspx
http://www.bjsoffroad.com/prod-465.htm

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post #9 of 12 Old 01-08-2013, 08:01 PM Thread Starter
czjeeper
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I don't know why I never read this before, but the CJ arms are 7"?

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post #10 of 12 Old 01-08-2013, 08:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by czjeeper View Post
I don't know why I never read this before, but the CJ arms are 7"?
watch out, the sector shaft on the manual box is smaller spline count than the power steering box.

'97 zj 5.2, some stuff, some other suff, and some things that even work sometimes.

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post #11 of 12 Old 01-08-2013, 09:57 PM Thread Starter
czjeeper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ratmonkey View Post
watch out, the sector shaft on the manual box is smaller spline count than the power steering box.
Thanks!
I just don't know if I should get a factory or dropped arm!

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post #12 of 12 Old 01-09-2013, 04:50 AM
MisfitSeven
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This might help.

chevy van
TJ
WJ
Wagoneer
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image-155205226.jpg  

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