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Unread 10-21-2012, 02:22 PM   #16
biffgnar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Noplainsdrifter View Post
The problem is the short wheelbase, was thinking a CV shaft would help with the angles but with the CV joint it just makes the shaft that much shorter.

Keep the suggestions coming!

I keep thinking that I can't be the only CJ5 that has this type of setup...
Even with a CV shaft you will likely have major bind when your axle sags even a little bit if that is ride height. Longer driveshaft or less lift only way to solve this problem.

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Unread 10-21-2012, 03:09 PM   #17
Noplainsdrifter
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I've been running this setup for a few years, I have very little to no tire rub, wheel wells are trimed. If/when I put bump stops on the rear it will eliminate tire rub. The regular DS worked rather well as I ground the the yokes for extra clearence. The Jeep sees real limited street time, to work once in awhile or to the store, otherwise it's trailered. Might have to go back to the other DS, worse part is I already cut it apart to make the CV one. Might try lowering the tcase abit. Hate to do that...
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Unread 10-21-2012, 03:48 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Noplainsdrifter View Post
when I built the SOA I tried to keep everything as low as I could, [/IMG]
your overly tall spring perches and low hangers tell me you could try harder.
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Unread 10-21-2012, 09:17 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by fratis View Post
your overly tall spring perches and low hangers tell me you could try harder.
With advise like yours, who needs it! Maybe it's best to keep your uninformed opinions to yourself.
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Unread 10-21-2012, 09:18 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Noplainsdrifter

With advise like yours, who needs it! Maybe it's best to keep your uninformed opinions to yourself.
Well put sir. Nicely said
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Unread 10-22-2012, 12:41 AM   #21
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"uninformed?" no...http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/...h-p-29871.html


http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyot...g-hangers.html
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Unread 10-23-2012, 10:57 AM   #22
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you could lower it an inch by grinding the spring perches so they sit closer to the axle tube. Maybe move the rear axle back at the same time by drilling a hole back on the spring perch. It will not help a lot but anything will help.
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Unread 10-23-2012, 11:28 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by Noplainsdrifter View Post
With advise like yours, who needs it! Maybe it's best to keep your uninformed opinions to yourself.
lmao Fratis is probably one of the most well informed people that hangs around the advanced tech section

whenever i ask a question im waiting for either Fratis or Jasonm to answer and they always do
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1994 yj stretched, locked and loaded - 6.0l vortec lq4, 4l60e, np231, Dana 44s 37" interco trxus m/t, 3.5" bds front leafs, double triangulated 4 link rear on xj front coils.
1997 ZJ limited - BONE stock
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my on board alternator/welder write up
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/alternator-welder-write-up-1301614/[/url]
my tj 1/2 doors on a yj write up
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/tj-uppers-yj-half-doors-hard-top-installation-1417686/[/url]
RC vs BDS
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/rough-country-vs-bds-1461555/[/url]
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Unread 10-23-2012, 11:39 AM   #24
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I'm going to try and lower the tranny a bit, see where I can gain a liitlle here and there. I really can't lower or move the axle back much without tire clearence problems. Just one step at a time to try and gain a better angle.
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Unread 10-23-2012, 11:45 AM   #25
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or if theres room you can cut your engine mounts off and try to move your engine forward a little to get a few more inches
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build thread:
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/94-yj-6-0-build-spud-1218315/[/url]
1994 yj stretched, locked and loaded - 6.0l vortec lq4, 4l60e, np231, Dana 44s 37" interco trxus m/t, 3.5" bds front leafs, double triangulated 4 link rear on xj front coils.
1997 ZJ limited - BONE stock
2003 tj - 4in skyjacker, 33" mickey thompsons
my on board alternator/welder write up
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/alternator-welder-write-up-1301614/[/url]
my tj 1/2 doors on a yj write up
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/tj-uppers-yj-half-doors-hard-top-installation-1417686/[/url]
RC vs BDS
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/rough-country-vs-bds-1461555/[/url]
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Unread 10-23-2012, 11:49 AM   #26
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Ater staring at it for bit last night, I'll try and move a few things around to see if I can gain on it. Maybe have to trim a little more fenderwell and stretch it back a bit, we'll see.
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Unread 10-23-2012, 12:53 PM   #27
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its a tough build. 35" tires is where you start cutting sheetmetal for a functioning suspension. if you look at your pic the tires already dont fit in the opening. cutting with a bit of stretch is the usual answer but its a bit more of a bummer on a 5 to destroy the look and cool round rear openings. the cj5 was all about short wheelbase. back then that was the ticket to good wheeling. no one was trying to climb waterfalls so the tight turing radius and ability to not get high-centered was great. with a lack of cargo space they were the buggys of their day. most 5s you see on pirate are body and frame stretched, and as cool as they are, its still nice to see one with factory body dimensions. id probably notch the tank slide the rear back a bit more and try to recreate the round rear opening only larger. id take the apex of the opening to within an inch of the top of the tub and rework the fenderwells a bit. id make the front fenders easily removable for wheeling. or id put 33s/35s on it, lower it a bit and leave the body alone and get the best winch possible. probably what id do. ive done cj nose conversions on yjs but there is no mistaking the door opening on a 5.

also if you havent already id give http://www.highangledriveline.com/ a call and see what they can do.

a question for someone else, is a d300 shorter then a 20?
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Unread 10-23-2012, 02:06 PM   #28
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Fratis,

Thanks for the good advise. I am trying to keep from cutting everything up and still use the stock flares. I'm running Scout D44's which are 59" wide, that's why I'm trying to keep the flares. It's not a DD but I do like to drive it on the street from time to time. If it was a dedicated wheeler it would be a no-brainer, but trying to have the best of both is difficult. I'm sure I'll get it, it'll just take some rearranging of things. That's a great site, but it's probably $$$$$
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Unread 10-23-2012, 02:12 PM   #29
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On another site I seen someone ran an external reservoir hooked up to the breather. That way he could run more oil in the diff and keep the pinion bearnig lubed. It was interesting but he still had the sharp pinioin angle. Just a band-aid instead of fixing the real problem.
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Unread 10-23-2012, 02:58 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ratmonkey View Post
the nature of the beast with tall lifts and the extra short cj-5's.
lower the case or stretch your wheel base.
Agreed. Only way you can correct that is to drop the tcase more or lengthen the wheelbase.

I don't suggest dropping tcase though. It may cause you to run into problems with the angle of your tranny and motor depending on how much you need to drop it.

Your best bet is to lengthen the wheelbase. I know its more work and you may not want to cut the body but its the best solution.
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