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Unread 04-14-2013, 05:29 PM   #16
jason m
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aircruiser View Post
I wasnt trying to start a flame war like I said, I may end up selling them both, who knows. I am just looking for info on how to convert the D60 to 35 spline and what I can do to an 8 lug 44 to hold up to 38s, locked with light skinny pedal.
Your not, starting a war this isn't Pirate. But converting a 60 over to 35 spline is costly and is a lot harder than just starting with a better axle.

Eather start with a differnet 60 that can take the 1.5" shafts threw spindles like a HD or a U model. Other axles are 70HDs or U model ( again ) but it still leaves the 29 spline pinion the weak link, the 10.25 is also a good start, but really the 14 bolt is the best bang for the buck.

The 44 on 38's and any type of throttle will be the problem, chrome shafts are going to be a must, but the stubs will be the weak point no matter what there made of along with the 297 U-joints.
Me I would hold out for a 60 to come along but thats just me. I over build, but I don't break and paly hard.
Do it right the first time and that pair of axles will last you years of use and abuse.

Jason.

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1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

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Unread 04-14-2013, 07:39 PM   #17
aircruiser
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Yeah youre right, maybe I will just buy the 44/60 and flip them
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Unread 04-17-2013, 06:13 PM   #18
underpowered
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a shaved 14FF is much cheaper and easier than beefing up the 60. the 14ff is big, but it is not the massive giant people think it is. the low pinion sucks more than the low ground clearance over all. it is only about an inch less clearance than a 60 is. for what it is, i'll deal with dragging it around for the stronger axle.

and under an XJ, a 44 and 38's is not ideal, but keep your foot out of it and you can make it last.
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