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Unread 06-12-2013, 10:57 AM   #1
Jeepin72
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Odd D60 Rear Hub Leak - Any Ideas?

I have full float rear Dana 60 under my heap. (Yeah, Yeah I know, this isn't a conversation about 14 Bolts) All I know about it is that it came from a 1979 Dodge truck (I assume a W300). It was under a CJ8 when I bought it.

The PO reported no problems. When I began to tear it apart I found no evidence of the leak I now have. There is a part of the hub (that I will call a "collar" since don't know what it actually is) that has backed off of the hub and is allowing gear oil to drain out. The collar holds the oil seal.

All seals and bearings are new. It's not those. I've shown it to a couple of life long professional mechanics and they all said "I've never seen anything like it."

I believe the hub is a Budd hub (PN 101823). It is stamped inside the gear oil basin in the hub. It seems Budd still makes hubs for heavy trucks and wheels for duallys. I can't find anything about this hub.

Here you can see the hub with bearing in bearing cup. Note there is no oil seal. That's cus it is in the collar sitting nicely on the spindle in the next picture.





Here is the oil seal off of the spindle and sitting on the hub where it should be.



Collar without oil seal



Here is the hub with bearing cup fully seated. Notice the bearing cup sticks up about 1/8" above the hub. The collar wants to grab onto this. The collar has a matching machined surface for the bearing cups OD. You can pound the collar on, but it has backed off several times now.



Here is another shot of the hub without the collar. The oil seal presses into the collar, so the collar is needed. Notice the sloped sides of the hub below the bearing cup.



Here is the collar. Notice the lack of the same sloped surface. It is nearly flat. If anything it is a bit concave.



Here is a look at the bottom of the collar. Notice the ridge at the center of the ring. It sticks up about a 16th of an inch. This ring lines up with the bearing cup seat when the bearing cup is removed.



Notice that the lower portion of the collar is machined differently than the top. The ID of the top fits the oil seal and the lower portion is machined to fit the bearing cup. The oil seals have all fit the spindle perfectly. I put the bearing cup (race) in through the collar (top down) and it is a super tight fit.

The OD of the bearing cup is 3.24" at the wide side and the OD is 3.18" and the narrowest side. The ID of the seat is 3.25" and the ID of the narrowest part of the collar is 3.22"





Collar on hub with bearing cup in place



Notice the gap between the collar and the hub. The other hub does not look like this. There is a line traveling the circumference of the hub in about the same spot, but if they do separate, they are flush right now.



Stamp



Bearing cup removed. The two machined surfaces on the collar and hub where the bearing cup sits jointly measure about 5/8" which is about the same width of the bearing cup top to bottom.



Solutions? Any ideas on how this Budd hub was originally designed? How is it meant to be installed? Did someone gum this thing up over the last 30 years?

What I've tried:
1) Pound it on. The collar fit snug, but worked its way off after some trail time.
2) Peen the collar and pound it on. Then fill the gap with RTV. Worked on the street, but again, a slight leak this time after some trail time.

Ideas:
1) Pound bearing cup through the collar and into its seat in the hub. (See measurements above). Would the bearing cup grab the collar and keep it in place? Fill gap with RTV?
2) Grind collar to match hub and tack weld. I worry about that joint 5/8" thing. These are cast parts so welding is tricky. Will it deform collar?
3) Continue to try and find new hubs for a 79 Dodge? This hasn't been easy. None on line that I've found and the nearest yards to me are about an hour in any direction.
4) Get a 14 bolt (not an option just yet)!

Other numbers if they help:
12" drums
2.5" shoes
Spindle ID 1.4"
Spindle OD 2-1.99"

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Unread 06-12-2013, 06:04 PM   #2
jason m
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Ive seen that collar once and it was many years ago on a 60 HD, didnt pay it any mind cause the axle didn't leak, it needed new wheel studs. But the odd thing is or was is it was only one side and don't ask me which side it was many years ago.

Now with all that said I have no idea why its there other than it some type of spacer, why is the question.

Im getting a 60 rear soon ( maybe a month or so ) as a pair of 60's from a Ford, I have no use for the rear 60 so if the hubs can match then I will send them to you. Again they are going to be off a Ford but im guessing it will be the same spindle size.
Again im not getting the axle's for at least a month, so if you can hold on I will send them out. Wish you were closer I just sold a 4.56's 14 bolt for 150.00.

Jason.
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1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

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Unread 06-12-2013, 06:23 PM   #3
Jeepin72
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Dang, I wish I was closer. The cheapest 14 bolts I've seen going around here is about $300.00. I have nothing but time brother. I am going to make small efforts to fix this thing and keep it alive till I am able to get the time (interest) to build another axle!

If you score the Ford 60 and the spindle sizes are the same I will take them! I can tell you the lock nut's I bought to replace the old ones from Napa were labeled for a Ford. They fit perfectly. I will see if I have a package still (doubtful). I know the Napa part number for the bearings is BR38.
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Unread 06-12-2013, 07:15 PM   #4
Jeepin72
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I was able to go out to the garage after dinner and try option 1.

As an experiment, I drove an old race through through the collar and into the hub until it was seated. It felt really snug to the hand. I was able to pry it loose with a seal puller. It was on there fairly well though.

I think I may try option one with some RTV adhesive and see how I do before take a grinder or welder to the collar. Never got a chance to post up on the Ram Charger forum today (I joined since in my internet research these guys were at least talking about Budd hubs, but not my problem). I actually had to work at work, can you believe it
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Unread 06-14-2013, 09:46 AM   #5
Jeepin72
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So I went with option one. I drove the race through the collar. I filled the gap with adhesive RTV. I will post the results.
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Unread 06-17-2013, 08:22 AM   #6
Jeepin72
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Already leaking again
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