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Unread 06-22-2013, 10:36 PM   #16
jason m
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kw89425 View Post
All front driveshafts are 2 piece and doesnt turn at hwy speed unless the case is locked in.
I think what Kenbo was talking about is a pillow block drive shaft, in other words a two piece like what buggys run to clear a tight motor or other parts in the way.

Of course in design all drive shafts are two piece but when someone in our world says two piece its ment as two drive shafts used in a one output to one input, so a pillow block would be needed to support it.

Jason.

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Unread 06-23-2013, 06:59 AM   #17
Kenbo-Slice
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kw89425 View Post
All front driveshafts are 2 piece and doesnt turn at hwy speed unless the case is locked in.
........


Look up what I'm talking about.

Also, if the front axle doesn't have lockouts, the driveshaft IS spinning regardless of the transfer case being engaged in 4wheel.
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Unread 06-23-2013, 11:08 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kw89425 View Post

All front driveshafts are 2 piece and doesnt turn at hwy speed unless the case is locked in.
Go back to the kids table and let the grownups talk.
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Unread 06-23-2013, 11:32 AM   #19
kw89425
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Screw you ****nuts...nobody said anything about fulltime and he was talking about street driving. I would assume he would have lockouts. I see you tj guys are a different breed with your little toys. Dont worry I wont be back
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Unread 06-23-2013, 11:43 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kw89425 View Post
Screw you ****nuts...nobody said anything about fulltime and he was talking about street driving. I would assume he would have lockouts. I see you tj guys are a different breed with your little toys. Dont worry I wont be back
If by that you mean we understand how our vehicles work and don't make silly assumptions then yes a different breed. You are right nobody said anything about full time and that changes nothing about the accuracy of our statements. And why would you assume lockouts when talking about that axle setup?
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Unread 06-23-2013, 01:14 PM   #21
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It's a lost cause.

I'll take being a rare breed over misinformed.
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Unread 06-23-2013, 03:33 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biffgnar

If by that you mean we understand how our vehicles work and don't make silly assumptions then yes a different breed. You are right nobody said anything about full time and that changes nothing about the accuracy of our statements. And why would you assume lockouts when talking about that axle setup?
What full width D44s (like the OP has) come with full time hubs?

Edit: As was pointed out, the OP may have one that came with drive flanges. Even if this is the case, a set of spicer lockouts can be had for under a $100 and make all of this driveshaft BSing a non-issue.
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Unread 06-23-2013, 05:17 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by rchase559 View Post
What full width D44s (like the OP has) come with full time hubs?
One with a 203, would.

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Unread 06-23-2013, 07:48 PM   #24
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If I may read between the lines I think the OP (grover) is more leaning towards the 'cool to look at' than 'hard core trail rig'. 'Completly steetable but not a daily driver it will see some trails'. The d44 would work fine for the street and the hanging 14 bolt won't be too much of a problem. If he keeps to dirt roads, out of the sand and mud and doesn't get on the gas too much his axle choice should last.

If he does decide to head off road a lot and test out his rig he will quickly discover the shortcomings of this setup. With any luck he won't have dropped too much money into the 44 before he does.
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Unread 06-23-2013, 08:22 PM   #25
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I don't think the 14 bolt is going to be "dragging" as I'm pretty sure if its a matched 14 bolt to the 44, it's a semi-float. They are a lot smaller in size than a full float 14 bolt.

I'm slightly confused as to the title of the thread. "Need suggestions" turned into "this is what I have and this is what I'm using". Therefore I think all of his is falling on deaf ears.
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Unread 06-23-2013, 09:31 PM   #26
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I think he was looking for advice on springs/struts/coilovers but got an ear full about his 'one tons' and if they work with 'up to 40 inch' tires.

So what is the suggestiongs for springs/struts/coilovers for his current axle setup that would work easiest when he does go to one tons?
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Unread 06-24-2013, 02:35 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olliehopnoodle View Post
I think he was looking for advice on springs/struts/coilovers but got an ear full about his 'one tons' and if they work with 'up to 40 inch' tires.

So what is the suggestiongs for springs/struts/coilovers for his current axle setup that would work easiest when he does go to one tons?
A guy I wheel with is using 44s ft & back, 38" TSLs with coil overs, it seems to work with his 4 squirrels turning it all.
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Unread 06-24-2013, 05:39 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olliehopnoodle View Post
I think he was looking for advice on springs/struts/coilovers but got an ear full about his 'one tons' and if they work with 'up to 40 inch' tires.

So what is the suggestiongs for springs/struts/coilovers for his current axle setup that would work easiest when he does go to one tons?
If he has the coin, ORI struts. Coilovers are great but take a lot of fine tuning to get the spring rate correct. A passenger drop front axle in a TJ will be easiest with either coilovers or struts because a lot of P-drop axles have limited space between the diff housing and the knuckle to fit spring plates, shock mounts etc.
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Unread 06-24-2013, 05:47 AM   #29
jason m
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olliehopnoodle View Post
I think he was looking for advice on springs/struts/coilovers but got an ear full about his 'one tons' and if they work with 'up to 40 inch' tires.

So what is the suggestiongs for springs/struts/coilovers for his current axle setup that would work easiest when he does go to one tons?
Well that's the other thing we are trying to point out is a dana 44 is not a one ton axle. So that's why a lot of have been saying to handle 40's which seems to be the end goal here get a one ton axle to match his rear.

Plus whatever springs/struts/coilovers that are working for his current axles will work with his 44/14 bolt combo, he might have to charge up the coilovers to handle the tires more or move some tabs, but overall his current suspension should work.

And I don't care about how many people will come on and say "my brothers uncle's sister former room mate runs 40's with his dana 44 so it will be fine" its not, every axle has a "safe" limit, 44 are set at 36-37".

Jason.
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And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
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Unread 06-24-2013, 05:56 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rchase559 View Post
What full width D44s (like the OP has) come with full time hubs?

Edit: As was pointed out, the OP may have one that came with drive flanges. Even if this is the case, a set of spicer lockouts can be had for under a $100 and make all of this driveshaft BSing a non-issue.
If the Op sticks with the 203 like he said he was for now and runs the front on a set of locking hubs he will have to run them locked all the time unless he installs a part time kit in the 203.

A 203 has coupling inside like the newer np242's ( I think that's the model case???) which in normal driving puts power down the driveshaft with least resistance. So if he installs locking hubs, leaves them unlocked he wont move.
This is why factory they come with slugs and why I said dump the 203 and go to a 205 which now acts like a normal case has the option to twin stick.

Jason.
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1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
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