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Unread 06-16-2013, 09:23 PM   #1
grover_151
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Need suggestions on tj ton build

Alright fellas, just picked up a 14 bolt rear and full width dana 44 front. Both out of a Chevrolet so I picked up a 203 transfer case also. Jeep is in the shop now gettin a 350 heart transplant with a nv4500 to back it. I'm not in a huge hurry to get these axles under my jeep but I do want to have it done within the year. Its a 99 tj so I'm goin to keep it 4 link rear and 3 link in the front, I want to keep it completely streetable but not a daily driver if you know what I mean. Don't exactly want to stretch it but will if I have to. My biggest concern is what should I use for springs/struts/coilovers. I have resarched quite a bit and can't really get a good answer. If I should run struts how long? If I should go coil springs, what size? Going to run a 37 inch tire for now and don't plan to go taller then 40. I don't think my 3 inch rough country springs and shocks are going to get the job done anymore. Lol. Any help would be grateful and I will start to post picks as the job starts.

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Unread 06-17-2013, 05:20 AM   #2
rchase559
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Ditch the 44 and use a 60. I would be stretching it if I was considering 40s also.
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Unread 06-17-2013, 06:33 AM   #3
Jeepin72
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You have a lot more planning to do!

1) Ditch the D44 or the 14B. The pairing is off. Either go with a D60 front or a smaller rear. That 14B will hang down too far for 37's. Unless you are planning a shave. Building for 37's is tough.

2) Are you planning on running full width? Narrowed? Have you considered where that front pumpkin will be in relation to fan, oil pan, etc... Clearing the front pumpkin drives a lot of the lift question.

3) If you want big rubber a stretch is needed. Will you stretch front and rear or just the rear? What will happen to the fuel tank?

4) Are you willing to cut sheet metal to fit the rubber? If so, not as much lift is needed.

5) What are your plans for steering? High steer on both knuckles? Clearing the steering linkage and giving yourself enough room for the track bar also drives the lift question. Consider pitman arm changes, all new linkage and rod ends, cross over, etc...

Sorry to throw a bunch of questions at you, but there is a lot to think about here. When I buiild my next Jeep I will go coil over. It would be easier IMO than stretching and one tons with the coils. I don't know much about the ORI struts but they are reported to be awesome.

I have 5.5" coils and a one inch body lift to clear 40's.
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Unread 06-17-2013, 10:44 AM   #4
grover_151
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I'm not going to ditch the d44 or the 14bolt, I plan on shaving the 14 bolt, I am keeping the axles full width, if a stretch it anywhere it will be the rear, im already running a fuel cell behind the rear seat, I have smittybilt xrc flat fenders in the front and plan on comp cuttin the rear, I'm thinking about going with ori struts, even tho they are expensive I believe they will be worth it in the long run
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Unread 06-17-2013, 11:22 AM   #5
Jeepin72
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If you have the $ for the struts then do it! Problem solved
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Last edited by Jeepin72; 06-17-2013 at 11:22 AM.. Reason: typo
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Unread 06-18-2013, 03:37 PM   #6
wushaw
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What tire are you wanting to ultimately run? Build your rig around your final tire size.
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Unread 06-18-2013, 10:09 PM   #7
Joe Dillard
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grover_151 View Post
Going to run a 37 inch tire for now and don't plan to go taller then 40.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wushaw View Post
What tire are you wanting to ultimately run? Build your rig around your final tire size.
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Unread 06-18-2013, 10:19 PM   #8
jason m
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Your parts list is kinda all over the place, why a 203 case? They are not weak case's but not a real good case for offroad, a 205 yes now your talking, plus how does a 203 mate with out AA involved to a NV4500?

The end goal is 40" tires, then why the 44 cause you got it paired off with the 14 bolt, don't get cheap now. Dump the 44 and go into a 60, you can shine that 44 till we can see it from the moon but it will never last with 4D's.

Axles are your last line of drivetrain, don't take them for granted. Strong ones last and don't break, weak one's make for un-fun wheeling days.

Jason.
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Unread 06-19-2013, 10:02 AM   #9
grover_151
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Running the 203 because that's what I have for now and maybe one day ill run a 203/205 doubler. The 203 will bolt right up to the 4500 minus having to drill and tap one hole in the casing. This jeep is not going to be an all out trail rig like I explained in my original post. Yes it will see trails but it is also going to driven on the street. Not saying that I won't ever run a 60 front but for right now I got a 44 and that's what I'm going to use.
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Unread 06-19-2013, 11:44 AM   #10
Imped
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Don't agree with the 44 up front at all. A buddy of mine went with the same pair of axles and regrets the 44 every day.....he has a Ford KP 60 sitting on jack stands waiting to be built.
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Unread 06-20-2013, 04:43 PM   #11
Kenbo-Slice
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Just throwing it out there, as I don't know for sure what you have.

There are two different 14 bolts. One is a full float and one is a semi-float. If your 14b came out of the same vehicle that the 44 did, chances are it's a semi-float 14 bolt and closer to a 3/4 ton. This comes into play for the aftermarket support and overall strength of the unit.

If it is in fact a full float 14 bolt, the 44 just isn't up to par with the rear axle and will essentially be a money pit if you plan on running 40's. Get a kingpin 60 and built it to handle some abuse.
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Unread 06-20-2013, 04:53 PM   #12
Kenbo-Slice
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Also, a streetable TJ on 40's with no stretch, a passenger drop front axle and conventional steering is going to be A LOT of calculation / trial and error.

You will probably also need to run a two-piece front driveshaft in the front with a passenger drop in order to clear the starter which takes a lot of fine tuning to drive at highway speeds without vibration.

I too am in the process of doing a passenger drop in a TJ and if it was going to be anything close to a DD or frequent street driver I would probably have a completely different plan for my current build.
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Unread 06-20-2013, 04:58 PM   #13
Kenbo-Slice
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Dillard View Post
In all fairness, the OP didn't give a final tire size and that is what was asked about. "Build around the final tire size" could in this case mean 37's 38's 38.5's or 40's. 3" of variation is a significant number with a bulldozer 14bolt and no definite.
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Unread 06-21-2013, 06:44 AM   #14
wushaw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Dillard View Post
So Joe if I build for a 37" standard tire then 40" stickies should work in the same application?
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Unread 06-22-2013, 09:32 PM   #15
kw89425
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kenbo-Slice View Post
Also, a streetable TJ on 40's with no stretch, a passenger drop front axle and conventional steering is going to be A LOT of calculation / trial and error.

You will probably also need to run a two-piece front driveshaft in the front with a passenger drop in order to clear the starter which takes a lot of fine tuning to drive at highway speeds without vibration.

I too am in the process of doing a passenger drop in a TJ and if it was going to be anything close to a DD or frequent street driver I would probably have a completely different plan for my current build.
All front driveshafts are 2 piece and doesnt turn at hwy speed unless the case is locked in.
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