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Unread 12-19-2011, 05:44 AM   #1
Machinist
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Hydro assist

Anyone have any good write ups?I am going to go with a durango box I think

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Unread 12-19-2011, 06:41 AM   #2
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I do not have pics or info on tapping the box but here is how line is mounted.









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Unread 12-19-2011, 06:44 AM   #3
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I had to tack weld the ram mount to the tie rod. the mount in the first pic was slipping.
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Unread 12-19-2011, 08:18 AM   #4
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No good write ups but the info is on the web, and here are a few things that we have found out through experience;
The group of folks that I associate with has done any number of hydraulic steering mods from full hydraulic to assist.
We typically use a cheap, rebuildable, double acting hydraulic cylinder around 1.5 to 2" diameter and 6 to 8"stroke (measure your steering travel at the anticipated point of installation).
Tapping the box is pretty easy but be prepared to replace it a couple of times if you don't keep all of the metal chips out of the system. Note a hydraulic oil filter helps, as does a cooler in the return line to the reservoir.
Many folks will find that the volume in the hydraulic reservoir needs to be increased.

If you want a double ended cylinder make contact with the local hydraulic cylinder re-builder/hose maker and see if they can combine 2 cheap (rebuildable) cylinders to make one double ended cylinder. Our re-builder can also thread the ends of the ram(s) for Hiem joints.

Note; standard power steering pumps seem to put out around 1,200 to 1500 psi and significantly more power can be had from an actual hydraulic pump (2500 to 3000 psi). Standard power steering pumps do not supply enough volume to adequately run both front and rear steering at the same time.
Cheap hoses can be obtained from the local farm store and Northern Hydraulics (google it) can provide overpriced cheap cylinders, hoses (standard lengths) and full hydro boxes. If you size the steering valve/sector too big the steering will be too fast to use at higher speeds.

Enjoy!
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Unread 12-19-2011, 08:19 AM   #5
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Here's a DIY kit for the gear box. What's nice about it is it becomes transferable to other boxes if you break your current one.

http://www.emsoffroad.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=218_221&pro ducts_id=386
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Unread 12-20-2011, 07:13 AM   #6
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Thanks,I am going to turn my own cap when I get the durango box in my hands.
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Unread 12-20-2011, 07:15 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poke View Post
I had to tack weld the ram mount to the tie rod. the mount in the first pic was slipping.
where did you get the tie rod mount?
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Unread 12-20-2011, 06:28 PM   #8
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A clamp on mount is not the best of ideas. There is a lot of power behind hydraulics and if this is a hydro assist setup then the ram will react a little slower then the mechanical linkage. I'd recommend welding two tabs to the tie rod for your ram mount. Also, if it is just hydro assist then there is no need for a double ended ram, actually won't work with hydro assist. Here are my recommendations:

Pump, Howe or PSC
Cylinder, Howe or PSC
Hoses, don't go cheap on this..... if you lose a hose then you lose most of your steering.
Filter, You can get a remote oil filter mount and plumb into that, ONLY use hydraulic filters. Take your remote filter housing to Napa and have them match up a hydraulic filter to your remote mount.
Cooler, I strongly recommend running a cooler, a stacked cooler will do the best. If your fluid gets to hot then the system will start to aerate, not good, you'll lose steering response.

As for how to plumb: #10 (5/8") hose from reservoir to pump. #6 (3/8") hoses from box to ram. On the return line from your box is where you will install the filter and cooler, never put your filter or cooler on the pressure side of your system, only the return side. Make sure all your fitting have nice sweeping bends, not sharp bends as it'll restrict flow.
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Unread 12-20-2011, 06:40 PM   #9
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Here are some pics of my setup, mine is full hydro, not to much different though minus I have a steering valve instead of a box. I do not have a pic of my filter system, sorry.

Cooler:



Pump (KRC, crap, don't buy it for offroad use):



Ram mounting:



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Unread 12-24-2011, 05:40 PM   #10
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From what i understand if you drive your rig on the highway, installing pumps, rams, hoses and boxes that arent really designed together, youll lose roadfeel, and it will be difficult to maintain a lane.

Im looking into hydro assist currently (turning with spools front and rear isnt easy without a ram), and i want to make sure that i dont loose all roadfeel. Im completely for losing a little bit of driveability, but i drive it to the rausch (3 hrs away), and i also want it to be safe.
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Unread 12-24-2011, 06:50 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2doorxj View Post
From what i understand if you drive your rig on the highway, installing pumps, rams, hoses and boxes that arent really designed together, youll lose roadfeel, and it will be difficult to maintain a lane.

Im looking into hydro assist currently (turning with spools front and rear isnt easy without a ram), and i want to make sure that i dont loose all roadfeel. Im completely for losing a little bit of driveability, but i drive it to the rausch (3 hrs away), and i also want it to be safe.
No matter what you do, full or hydro assist, it's hard to maintain a lane. A hydraulic cylinder is always adjusting. Basically it will keep the steering tighter than snot, so you are always turning the wheel left, then right, then left, then right, to keep it in it's lane. I do not recommend any hydraulics for highway use.
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Unread 12-24-2011, 07:23 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by addicted2dunes View Post
No matter what you do, full or hydro assist, it's hard to maintain a lane. A hydraulic cylinder is always adjusting. Basically it will keep the steering tighter than snot, so you are always turning the wheel left, then right, then left, then right, to keep it in it's lane. I do not recommend any hydraulics for highway use.
True to an extent, but ive been in a rig with the psc kit, and it went quite well down the highway, but its also $1600, there is a lot of R & D in that kit.

Ive also know a lot of guys that have hydro assist on their jeeps, and they have no problems either, but then again ive never been in their jeeps.

Ive also been thinking if their was a way to have the ram off while driving down the highway, and then turning it back on for trail use.
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Unread 12-24-2011, 07:27 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by addicted2dunes View Post
No matter what you do, full or hydro assist, it's hard to maintain a lane. A hydraulic cylinder is always adjusting. Basically it will keep the steering tighter than snot, so you are always turning the wheel left, then right, then left, then right, to keep it in it's lane. I do not recommend any hydraulics for highway use.
This is absolutely not true. I have a PSC box, pump and ram and my TJ drives down the road exactly the same with or without it. I have had my ram on and off several times and the only "feel" difference is, with it on, there is a tiny bit more "power assist" during slow parking lot type maneuvers. But that is just what you'd expect, after all, that's why the ram was added.

If your Jeep is twitchy with a ram, I'm sure it's twitchy without a ram.
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Unread 12-24-2011, 07:33 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ftgiles View Post
This is absolutely not true. I have a PSC box, pump and ram and my TJ drives down the road exactly the same with or without it. I have had my ram on and off several times and the only "feel" difference is, with it on, there is a tiny bit more "power assist" during slow parking lot type maneuvers. But that is just what you'd expect, after all, that's why the ram was added.

If your Jeep is twitchy with a ram, I'm sure it's twitchy without a ram.
Not true at all.

btw, what pump do you have?
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Unread 12-24-2011, 07:49 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2doorxj View Post
Not true at all.

btw, what pump do you have?
If it's not true then your suspicions about mis-matched components or bad implementation would be true.

I'm running a CB PSC pump.
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