Hydraulic High pressure line - Chevy 350 Power Steer pump to Jeep TJ steering box - JeepForum.com
Search  
Sign Up   Today's Posts
User: Pass: Remember?
Advertise Here
Jeep Home Jeep Forum Jeep Classifieds Jeep Registry JeepSpace Jeep Reviews Jeep Gallery Jeep Clubs Jeep Groups Jeep Videos Jeep Events Jeep Articles
Go Back JeepForum.com > General Technical Discussions > Advanced Jeep Tech > Hydraulic High pressure line - Chevy 350 Power Steer pump to Jeep TJ steering box

1984-2001 Jeep Cherokee Rear Leaf Spring (4 Leaf) Pair1984-2001 Jeep Cherokee Front Upper & Lower Control ArSwag Off Road BIG-HIT TJ-YJ Rear Bumper

Reply
Unread 12-10-2013, 12:24 PM   #1
rargenargle
Registered User
1998 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Ogden, UT
Posts: 18
Tj Hydraulic High pressure line - Chevy 350 Power Steer pump to Jeep TJ steering box

Hi - I'm trying to make or have made, a high pressure hydraulic line going from my power steering pump to my steering box. I have a Chevy 350 from a 1988 Suburban in my '98 TJ Wrangler with the stock steering gearbox.

What are the end types I need? I've been combing the web, but can't get straight answers. Obviously both ends are male, but - 37 degree Flare? SAE type? I'm going to have EVCO in Ogden UT make the high pressure line, and need to tell the company making the hydraulic line what my end types are.

What threading or end type is on the Chevy power steering pump, and what is on the Jeep steering gearbox? Any help is appreciated!

Thanks

rargenargle is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-10-2013, 03:15 PM   #2
jason m
Moderator
 
jason m's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Holland mass USA
Posts: 2,881
You might have to just take your old line to them so they can match them up and then tell the length your looking for the finished line to be.
Any good Hydro shop will have them.

I used a Chevy P-pump for my full Hydro on my Jeep, the Pump was a stock line and fitting which was then cut ( on the rubber line ) and I spliced a screw type fitting into the line so I could have a -6 JIC to start the feed of my Hydro fitting.

Jason.
__________________
1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
jason m is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-10-2013, 03:47 PM   #3
rargenargle
Registered User
1998 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Ogden, UT
Posts: 18
Thanks Jason m ; I've had a hell of a time finding a good hydraulic shop; so, that's been the main problem.

Any idea on the pressure actually going through the line? I'm assuming it's nowhere near or over 100psi; so, splicing the ends (jeep and chevy) at the rubber would be the way to go.

However, My steel line bent right next to where it attaches on the Jeep steering gearbox. Also my Jeep line has a metal wire core in the rubber hose section. Not sure what to do about that...

In the end i'm just trying to avoid overpaying for a seemingly small hydraulic line. Really trying to avoid buying a new Jeep hydraulic line, and a new chevy hydraulic line, then cutting and splicing the two.

Here are pics of my old lines, made to simulate what I need in the end: the Chevy side is on the right side, and the jeep side is on the left in the picture.
webimg_0508.jpg   webimg_0509.jpg   webimg_0507.jpg  
rargenargle is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-10-2013, 04:21 PM   #4
jason m
Moderator
 
jason m's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Holland mass USA
Posts: 2,881
A Chevy P pump can put pressure around 1200 PSI, so no you cant just splice them together without a do it your self ( self tapping fitting ) fitting and then the right fitting to fit the other end.
But buy the time your done with playing around with all that your just better off having the line made.

The only reason I cut and spliced in a self tapping fitting is I was after the pump running mine into a rear steer valve, then up to my steering valve.

In your case just the right line made.

Jason.
__________________
1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
jason m is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-10-2013, 04:52 PM   #5
yjtyler
Registered User
1995 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 300
My jeep lines did the same thing when I removed them, I went to an auto parts store that also made lines. They couldn't make a full line for me so what I did was buy 2 lines that were the correct size, take the threaded fitting off the jeep line and put it onto the new line and reflare it. I bent it till it cleared the grill and put an all metal splice on it. Then I cut the Chevy line from the pump and spliced them together. It has held up fine so far. For the return line I did the same thing with using the jeep fitting and reflaring the line then just ran a rubber line. Hopefully you can follow this explanation as intended, if not just ask.
__________________
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/350-swap-time-near-1406658
yjtyler is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-10-2013, 04:59 PM   #6
rargenargle
Registered User
1998 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Ogden, UT
Posts: 18
Whoops, looks like I underestimated the pressure by quite a bit.
rargenargle is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-10-2013, 05:11 PM   #7
rargenargle
Registered User
1998 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Ogden, UT
Posts: 18
Thanks YJtyler; I went ahead and ordered a new stock Jeep TJ pressure line from O'reilly's for $25; and I'm going to try cutting off the hose at the rubber as close to the end where it goes into the Chevy steering pump. Then I'm going to use a 2 ended 3/8ths barb connector and fuel line clamps (possibly 4 of them to hold the rubber onto the barb-connector) and use my original Chevy end. Maybe even throw some Ultra Black RTV on the connector to make this as ghetto as possible. I'd think it will hold; and, even if it doesn't - I've still spent $120 less than what the shop was going to charge me to make the line. In the end, I'll probably kick myself for not listening to jason m, but I'm really focused on just getting the Jeep running right now.... more focused on firing up the Chevy 350 that hasn't been on the road in 5 years.
rargenargle is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-10-2013, 05:39 PM   #8
yjtyler
Registered User
1995 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 300
looking at the line again i didnt reflare it, sorry. when i cut the new line i just slid the fitting onto the line there, then spliced the lines together. i wouldnt cut the rubber line btw!! cut the tubing with a pipe cutter and get a brass splice. if im thinking correctly i thought the jeep fitting is the same as the chevy at the pump just bend differently??i could be wrong tho, it has been a little since i did this.
__________________
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/350-swap-time-near-1406658
yjtyler is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-10-2013, 06:54 PM   #9
jason m
Moderator
 
jason m's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Holland mass USA
Posts: 2,881
Now before you install the new lines put some never seize on the new threads and on the neck of tube where the fitting and line meet, they always make a rust bond that bends the tube first, then brakes free.


Jason.
__________________
1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
jason m is offline   Reply With Quote




Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation. JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.