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Unread 06-20-2011, 01:19 AM   #46
Joe Dillard
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1991 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Kinda hard to tell by these pics, but these are the hub internals after being degreased, and the caliper bracket & spindle cleaned-up and new high heat paint applied to them.






Spindle:


Caliper bracket:



27 spline inner vs 35 spline inner:


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Unread 06-20-2011, 03:29 AM   #47
grizzly11
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1994 YJ Wrangler 
 
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I have the same axle in my YJ. Outboarding the springs seemed like a lot of fab work so I took a LOT of measurements and cut 5" (I'll have to double check that #) out of the long side and it fit perfectly. I had never narrowed an axle before and it was really very easy.




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Unread 06-20-2011, 11:49 AM   #48
Joe Dillard
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grizzly11 View Post
I have the same axle in my YJ. Outboarding the springs seemed like a lot of fab work so I took a LOT of measurements and cut 5" (I'll have to double check that #) out of the long side and it fit perfectly. I had never narrowed an axle before and it was really very easy.
Cool!

At first, I was scratching my head thinking that the axle would be offset (I know its not). Then after thinking more about it & taking a closer look at the pics, it makes sense as to how you went about narrowing it.

I see you have a V8. Did the driver side exhaust routing give you some challenges with the drive shaft possibly being in the way?

What did you end up doing for steering? Did you go with a set of high steer arms & hydro assist? Was the steering box moved forward at all & what pitman arm is being used? TIA.
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Unread 06-20-2011, 04:00 PM   #49
grizzly11
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No problem at all with front drive shaft or exhaust. The steering box is still in the stock location. No hydro assist yet I'll get that done before the next mud bog in September. Not sure on the pitman arm, the Jeep was soa over the Dana 30 when I got it.
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Unread 06-26-2011, 04:55 PM   #50
Joe Dillard
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^^^Nice!^^^

Well, I wire wheeled yesterday till I could barely stand listening to the el cheepo drill I was using anymore. So....I started with a couple coats of flat black primer, then after seeing the results I decided to paint it with flat black paint as well. Then cleaned up the hubs (more wire wheeling ) then primer & high heat paint.

I pressed new wheel studs into 1 hub & 1 new rotor and began assembling the caliper brackets & spindles.








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Unread 06-26-2011, 05:37 PM   #51
Climbit
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looking good Joe. what else needs to happen before it gets reassembled and installed?
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Unread 06-26-2011, 07:34 PM   #52
krughzn
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That looks awesome, Joe. You do good work...
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Unread 06-26-2011, 09:30 PM   #53
Joe Dillard
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Climbit View Post
looking good Joe. what else needs to happen before it gets reassembled and installed?
Thanks Taylor. Some lug holes in one of the hubs seem to be too large & I *think* the old lugs spun & backed-out on it.

I'm thinking about welding the effected holes & redrilling them so that the new lugs have a tight fit.

The calipers still need to be painted with heat paint and then installed along with new grease for the bearings and the hub internals put back in & buttoned up.

I'll possibly do the regear & ARB after its installed. I still need to find a set of 17" wheels for the red label 37" Krawlers I just picked up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by krughzn View Post
That looks awesome, Joe. You do good work...
Thanks Mike. Slooooowly but surely.
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Unread 06-29-2011, 03:51 PM   #54
1 ton yj
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Looks good Joe. Welcome to the 60 club

I would seriously take those knuckles off to inspect the lower bearings before you wheel it. I put my 60 in my YJ in 04, then put it in my buggy in 09, and never had the knuckles off. Well 2 weeks before loading up for hammers this winter, I pulled them off to weld steering "arms" on them (no more bolt-on high steer arms for me, they are the devil), one of the bearings fell out in a million pieces and the other was rusted seized Needless to say, it really needed new bearings and could have been a disaster if I had lost a knuckle doing 50 through the dezert.

Also regarding the knuckles, everyone I know who runs a ford 60 has had problems with cracked or broken knuckles. Inspect them regularly. Take a look on pirates, there's been a few threads where guys have added material around the knuckles to make them last.

I got a 85 ford housing just like that a couple months ago. Not sure if I'm going to cut the tubes off and swap them to passenger drop for my current buggy, or leave it as is and build it with GM outers for my next rig.
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Unread 06-29-2011, 04:43 PM   #55
Joe Dillard
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Howdy Chris, Nice to hear from you.

Thanks for the sound advice - its much appreciated. Yea, nowz the time to inspect all aspects of it and do proper maintenance before I start "hammering" with it.

Like you mentioned, I have friends who've broken or cracked the knuckles on these things. They are not as bulletproof as some may think, especially after adding big meats, full locker, hydro steering etc.
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Unread 06-29-2011, 05:54 PM   #56
aw12345
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I got a 85 ford housing just like that a couple months ago. Not sure if I'm going to cut the tubes off and swap them to passenger drop for my current buggy, or leave it as is and build it with GM outers for my next rig.

That is the route I went, Chevy Outers on my project. Bolts right on and the claim to fame is that they are somewhat less prone to breakage
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Unread 06-29-2011, 08:11 PM   #57
1 ton yj
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Reason for the Chevy outers is I already have spare knuckles and spindles, and can get used SRW hubs other GM stuff cheap whenever I need to.

And because my knuckle reinforcement/steering mount is designed for a GM knuckle with the lower placed factory tie rod hole.
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Unread 06-29-2011, 10:30 PM   #58
Climbit
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1 ton yj View Post
Reason for the Chevy outers is I already have spare knuckles and spindles, and can get used SRW hubs other GM stuff cheap whenever I need to.

And because my knuckle reinforcement/steering mount is designed for a GM knuckle with the lower placed factory tie rod hole.
you probably already thought of this, but you should flip that bolt over and drill a small hole in it for a cotter pin, less chance of it getting torn up on a rock...


and now that I wrote that I amthinking that you put it like that just for picture purposes.....

looks like a sweet setup.

so whats wrong with bolt-on histeer arms?
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Unread 06-30-2011, 01:01 AM   #59
Joe Dillard
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1991 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Location: King George, VA
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Ahhhhhh.......while not exactly related, finally getting these today will help speed along the HPD60 install. I'm doing a 4-link rear & coilover conversion along with the front axle install.




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Unread 06-30-2011, 05:33 AM   #60
1 ton yj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Climbit View Post
you probably already thought of this, but you should flip that bolt over and drill a small hole in it for a cotter pin, less chance of it getting torn up on a rock...


and now that I wrote that I amthinking that you put it like that just for picture purposes.....

looks like a sweet setup.

so whats wrong with bolt-on histeer arms?
Actually, the bolt is installed like that. I always try to put bolts facing down so if the nut loosens, the bolt stays in place. It looks vulnerable in that picture, but with the nylock nut on it, there's only an inch or so of thread left (it's a 3/4" dia 10" long bolt ) and it's inside the rim, so it's fairly well protected.

The reason I went away from bolt-on steering arms, is because I really didn't have high steer, the tie rod was bolted to the bottom of the arm, and because I was constantly having problems pulling the studs out of the knuckles and breaking studs (full hydro and big tires). Also, not having the arm bolted to the top of the knuckle greatly reduces the likelihood of breaking a knuckle.

Almost all of the broken knuckles I've seen, had the top of the knuckle twisted off due to from stress from the arm. Not only did I eliminate that stress point, but the top "arm" piece I welded on wraps around the top of the knuckle where they are the weakest.
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