I recently aquired a driver side drop Ford kingpin HPD60 from out of an F350. The guy selling it didn't know much about it so I looked up the BOM & it lists it as a 88 1/2 - '91 1/2 Ford from a F350.
The driver side axle tube is ~3" long from the axle housing perch to the inner C. It has the hubs, calipers, rotors etc. The centerpin holes on the HPD60 measure ~36.5" wide, while my HPD30 measure ~30.5".
What I'm thinking is to outboard my spring hangers so the axle stays centered and so that the exhaust isn't in the way and front drive shaft lines-up (hopefully).
Since this beast is so wide - I'm wondering what my options are as far as narrowing it, and possibly changing the WBP to 5x5.5". Maybe run drive flanges & eliminate the hubs, or things like that to help make it so its not as wide.
I'm gunna have to regear it to 4.56 & I'll install an ARB too. I may go to chromo 35 spline inners & outers as well. It currently has 35 spline inners & 31 spline outers. Yep, taller tires are in the mix too. My rear axle is getting a 4 link and coilovers but I'm going to keep the front SOA for now.
Those axles in stock form seem to be better suited to links than leafs. If your def going to run the leafs it may be easier to sell it and get a 78/79 where the spring perches are less than 1" off. Or narrow it to what you need. What are you going todo about the width of the 8.8 or is that going too?
For the exhaust you could run a tj downpipe or pacesetter header to get it out of the way and move it around the front of the oilpan.
Secondly... I would outboard the springs. with your fabricating skills and access to tools, it will be the easiest way. Google outboard YJ brackets and you will get a ton of ideas on how to make it happen.
I am building for a '79 HP 60 front and was able to avoid doing this.
On width. Drive flanges will save you a little bit of width but really not that much, can be as little as <1". the hubs stick way out, no way to avoid that so that leaves you with the tubes. the least invasive way to shorten them is to cut the long side tube down and then re-weld the inner C in place. Your biggest issue will then become running a custom length shaft on one side. that is expensive and if something happens you need to custom order another one to replace it. think about a u-joint ovaling out an ear.... then you are stuck for a while. If it was me, and I shortened one tube I would order 2 shafts for that side so I would have a spare.
The only way to cover those hubs is with back spacing.
I am gearing to 5.13. Do you think 4.56 will be enough for larger tires?
partsmike.com is a very good place to order 60 stuff. best prices I have found, short shipping window
'm wondering what my options are as far as narrowing it, and possibly changing the WBP to 5x5.5".
How do I convert a Front Dana 60 to 5x5.5 bolt pattern?
The way most people do this is to use the D60 hubs and turn them down to fit through the 5 lug rims, turn the backsides down to fit the 5 lug rotors, and then re-drill the flanges. Then you just have to make a caliper bracket to fit (see 3/4 ton brake conversion above).
I converted a D60 over to 5 on 5.5 this fall. I used a mix of Dana 60 parts and Dana 44 parts to get it done. All parts are Ford 1979 Dana 60, Ford half ton, or Chevy half ton.
Hereís the parts list:
Dana 60 spindle
Dana 60 hub machined down and re-drilled to 5 on 5.5
Dana 44 rotor (F-150/Bronco) center bore machined out to fit on the Dana 60 hub
Machined brake caliper bracket out of 1/2 steel. Basically flat but machined to allow 1/4" clearance for brake pads. Incorporated Dana 60 spindle pattern and Howe twin piston Chevy calipers. These were needed for clearance at piston and knuckle. Knuckle needed slight grinding to allow free caliper clearance. But they work awesome so worth the extra money.
F-150 wheel studs
Getting the hub and brakes machined and re-drilled was cheap. Around $150. The brakes cost substantially more. I hate to say what I paid for the caliper bracket, but if you have a buddy who is a machinist you could probable replicate for a lot less. the Howe calipers were around $220 for the set. Well worth the extra over standard calipers in my opinion.
I did the same conversion to 5 lug on my Hybrid Dana6/Ford9" front. Some pics: http://albums.photopoint.com/j/Albu...=1&showall=true
I used a 60 hub, re-drilled. 1 hole is almost 1/2 way into one of the old 8 lug locations. I tack welded the stud to keep it straight. OD of the hub turned down, back side of the hub matched to F150 rotors. I had a local metal shop flame cut the caliper brackets from 3/8" plate (7/16 would be better). I had a tracing of Dynatrac's bracket. Transferred the spindle bolt pattern. I used GM / FSJ 2 bolt calipers. A little grinding on the knuckle, and slid them out 1/8" or so for more knuckle clearance. No problem with 15" wheels. Took a lot of figuring and measuring, but came out great and pretty cheap. I have a good connection for machine work, but really nothing too sophisticated. BTW, Sunray will do this conversion with your parts. $800
Another method is a Chevy 60 knuckle, a 60 outer shaft, a Chevy 44 spindle, a 1/2" thick spacer/adaptor to bolt to the 60 knuckle and bolt the spindle to, then you use a 44 hub, rotor, backing plate, and caliper, and a lockout can be bought from Warn, its the one they are using in their rear full float conversions, same 30 spline as the 60 shaft, and fits in the 44 hub. They are running no spindle bearings, you do end up trimming a little off the spline end of the outer shaft, cause its to long, but it all goes together, and the only thing the people running it have broken is a hub.
I've heard of this set-up before, never seen it though. Talked extensively with a guy in WA that makes a kit like that but wants $900 for it!! What he does is make a spacer, bore out a big bearing D44 spindle till the bearing fits, adapts D60 lockout hub internals into a D44 lock-out. Not sure if thatís the right way to do it but thatís what he told me!
Wow! Lots of GREAT information and options to consider.
As far as gears go and staying with 4.56's, I think I'll be "ok" since the Atlas is a 5.0. The Jeep rarely gets driven on the streets, and the only time it sees hwy is when I'm in Moab or Colorado on the way to trails. Yea, 5.13's or even 5.38's would be better for the slow crawling I typically enjoy. But...I'd need new F8.8 gears in the mix too, which adds some costs that I'm hopeing to avoid.
Which brings up another point/question. Yep, I'm keeping the F8.8 for now since its got a Super 88 kit (I can run 5x4.5" or 5x5.5" WBP and it's a little bit wider than stock), gears and ARB already, and getting ready to be 4-linked/coilovers in the coming weeks. Which is why I'm thinking about converting the D60 to that WBP if its not too $$$.
I'm looking to run between 37's to 39's, so with the AX-15 (possibly an NV4500 down the road), Atlas 5.0 and 4.56's I "think" I'll be okay. Dunno for sure. We'll see.
Yep, if I do narrow it - I'd definetly get spare shafts and assemble them for trail spares.
I think what I need to do is to pull the HPD30 (which is a little wider than stock by ~1.5" due to the Warn hubs) and slide the D60 under it to see how things line-up.
I REALLY appreciate all the excellent info you guys have posted up! Lots to consider.
I measured the width - it's ~69" WMS-WMS, plus each hub sticks out ~5.25", so all in all ~79.5". BTW: My trailer is 84" wide at the utility rails, so its gunna be a squeeze after wheels & tires are installed.
Swing by & have a beverage or two if you'd like. I got home REAL early tonight (~9:30PM).
if you do narrow it and you might do coilovers in the future, judging by your word usage, dont narrow it too much. my 609 wound up 65" wide and its a bit tricky to get the coilovers mounted at the axle end. there is room just inboard of the knuckles but with the axle moving around was predicting a bit of binding. this is without notching the frame. if you are worried about the hubs dynatracs stub hubs are much narrower then the standard units.
-insert meaningless out-of-place political diatribe-
On mine, it has 5.38 gears with 39.5" tires - not a bad combo there, but I also have a stock 231 tcase still. 4lo she'll crawl pretty good, highway wise cruising so far I've got up to 60mph (just plated it not long ago). Seems to do pretty good, maybe close to stockish for accelartion.
My width is 81" in the front - same concerns you have with fitting on a trailer. I didn't want to have to keep swapping tires to load / unload.
good find, this looks almost just like mine. (cept mine is a 79)
I don't really think outboarding would be too difficult for you, I think you have the know-how. I'm glad I don't have to full with it though!
if you run spacers on the 8.8, could maybe run stock h1 wheels. that would be a big chunk of spacer,though.
I went with a 14b ff in the rear. i know you have a lot in the 8.8, but I don't know how well you could match it up without cutting down the front axle and running custom shafts.
'93 YJ with 1 ton SOA in progress (slowly).
Some sort of hydro assist will likely be incorporated into the build too, plus a steering solution.
I am actually doing the work on this over the weekend because I just finished my front stretch. If you get a second take a look at my build the last few entries from me are doing the front stretch... it is very simple and allows you to run XJ springs SOA up front. that's a 6 inch front stretch only moving the front shackle hangers forward. I would personally not run over 35's with out a stretch. Running 37's I would want to be just under 100", on 39's the closer to 110 the better. <--- I polled Pirate on WB vs tire size and this is where it came out.
I am running Hydro assist with a tapped Astro van box. Although I didn't do mine, tapping the box is common and easy. Astro box only comes into play it you stretch the front.
Well, this morning I went ahead and got new calipers, rotors, pads, wheel studs, and a hub nut socket tool. For now, I'm going to stick with the 8 lug pattern - but that could change depending on how the rest of the build goes.