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post #16 of 20 Old 10-27-2012, 12:30 PM Thread Starter
ltrail
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1984 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: mesa
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Oh speaking of the weight loss....the 3/16 frame plating isn't helping. Already tore factory frame bracket so I plated the whole darn things front to back. With the new power plant im not so concerned with weight in this one. Next time I'll save body weight and add good axles out of the box.

He's right though, I'm cheap as hell and build what I can myself for little or no money. Could not have afforded a rear link kit so I designed my own. Works great, isn't perfect, but it's mine.

I'll find a kp 60 next time and run the sacred shaved 14b just for Jason lol!


84 xj 350tbi, sm465, 203/205, 60/70. links and other junk.
what size sawzall blades does it take to fit 40's?
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post #17 of 20 Old 10-27-2012, 04:29 PM
jason m
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ltrail View Post
just for Jason lol!
LOL, now I can sleep at night knowing that

Jason.

1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt...

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post #18 of 20 Old 10-27-2012, 05:10 PM Thread Starter
ltrail
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I just never saw the need for such nonsense. Now that it's all coming together, tires are getting larger (40's the new 35) the ride gets lower, links get longer, leafs disappear, crap adds up to what's gonna break now that everything is beefed?

84 xj 350tbi, sm465, 203/205, 60/70. links and other junk.
what size sawzall blades does it take to fit 40's?
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post #19 of 20 Old 10-27-2012, 08:17 PM
jason m
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Originally Posted by ltrail View Post
I just never saw the need for such nonsense. Now that it's all coming together, tires are getting larger (40's the new 35) the ride gets lower, links get longer, leafs disappear, crap adds up to what's gonna break now that everything is beefed?
The down stream effect on parts and on the wallet. I know I went threw it, after the 60/14 bolt went into my jeep I no longer broke axle parts, I started breaking front 231 outputs, after the 3rd one in a little over a year I swapped to a 241 case.
Sure now my case was stronger I started breaking drive shafts and U-joints. So really theres no upgrade for a stronger U-joint on a 241 so I would know when to back off to keep from breaking.

Thats why the buggy I'm slated to build will have all beef, TH-475/205, 1350 U-joints, 60 front with a Eaton steering axle rear. But my "fuse" for now will be the stock Chevy shafts till I have a chance to go chrome.

All my buggy friends say the same thing, it comes down to shafts or learn how to back off, every thing else is built to the max and the last part in the puzzle is the last to recive the power and thats the shafts.
But when you over build the shafts like 300M and CTM joints it then fires back up stream to the R&P, so ok upgrade to a stronger diff like a 14 bolt and it go's right back to the U-joints or yoke's.
Or if not them the Atlas case or the input off the trans, it never ends thats why you need to know the limit of the rig as far as when to say stop or CRUNCH.

Jason.

1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt...

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post #20 of 20 Old 10-29-2012, 10:50 AM Thread Starter
ltrail
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Location: mesa
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Saw a 4 cyl buggy flop a front driveline with ctm's couple weeks ago. Ripped the ears off it looked like. Running 42's and 5.xx seems to cripple a lot of things. Leverage and torqe are monsters. Next build will include 60/14 probably a beefed d300, and if that tanks I'll go with the replacement case.

84 xj 350tbi, sm465, 203/205, 60/70. links and other junk.
what size sawzall blades does it take to fit 40's?
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