HP D60 Rear end and 450 HP? - Page 2 - JeepForum.com

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post #16 of 25 Old 04-12-2013, 10:47 AM Thread Starter
DLWRUBI
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Thanks.

The LS3 is somewhat conservative at 430HP/424TQ and easy to get alot more out of them. By the time power hits the wheels, the tranny is only one part (granted the most) that causes loss at the wheels.

I need 64" WMS to WMS max plus I need 5 on 5.5. I'm guessing I'll have to narrow a 14 bolt and convert the hubs and get custom axles plus a locker and gears. The 14 bolt is sounding pretty tempting though.

I'm going to have to live with a 98-99" WB for now. I am also looking at LP D60 FF 35 splined setup. They also have the super 60 (10") gear for a little added strength. It's amazing at all the different opinions about this searching all over the internet. One thing remains constant though is there is always mention of the 14 bolt.

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post #17 of 25 Old 04-12-2013, 11:12 AM
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Don't bother with the 10" ring on the 60, it still shares the same 29 spline as the normall size R&P gear set. So the weak spot will still be the pinion shaft, unless you upgrade to the 35 spline input after market gears which are only in 5.38 and are around 5ish for them.

Theres a reasion the 14 bolt pops up, it works plain and simple. For you find a cab and chassie ( C&C) axle, it will be 63.5"s WMS and the hubs can be re-drilled to 5 on 5.5, this way there is no custom axle shafts and a very easy axle to find.
Plus around 50% of them are factory with 4.56's which is a great gear to start on with a budget build.

Jason.

1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt...

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post #18 of 25 Old 04-12-2013, 11:14 AM
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If you are wanting to use a from 60 and a 14 bolt forget swapping to 5 on 5.5 wheel pattern. Just buy a set of 8 lug wheels. it would be a heck of a lot cheaper. That and I don't think anyone makes a 5 on 5.5 conversion for the 14bolt just because the FF shafts have such a big flange on the end and the hub for them is so big. I think there are a few 6 lug conversions for them, but its not worth the money unless you are loaded.

You could look for an old 5/4 ton CUCV and rob the axles out of it. Just need a front locker, and 35 spline stub shafts and hubs/drive slugs.

98 4cyl TJ on 35s, armored, geared, locked, and ready to wheel
88 MJ 4.0L AW4 4wd. Stock.
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post #19 of 25 Old 04-12-2013, 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by 256ChiliPepper View Post
If you are wanting to use a from 60 and a 14 bolt forget swapping to 5 on 5.5 wheel pattern. Just buy a set of 8 lug wheels. it would be a heck of a lot cheaper. That and I don't think anyone makes a 5 on 5.5 conversion for the 14bolt just because the FF shafts have such a big flange on the end and the hub for them is so big. I think there are a few 6 lug conversions for them, but its not worth the money unless you are loaded.

You could look for an old 5/4 ton CUCV and rob the axles out of it. Just need a front locker, and 35 spline stub shafts and hubs/drive slugs.
You can get the hubs down enough along with opening up the centers on the rims....................................but I agree just buy new rims. 8 lug is now the commen wheel on the trail. When I did it 9 years ag now it was pretty much unherd of.

Jason.

1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt...

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post #20 of 25 Old 04-12-2013, 10:12 PM Thread Starter
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Well, not buying new wheels, these beadlocks were expensive. They also make a 5 on 5.5 conversion for a 14 bolt, not that big a deal. Good to know I can find one in my width. Will need 4.88's to match the front D60. What year C&C should I look for? And does it have the big drum brake setup on it? If so, those will have to go.
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post #21 of 25 Old 04-12-2013, 11:54 PM
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Originally Posted by DLWRUBI View Post
What year C&C should I look for? And does it have the big drum brake setup on it? If so, those will have to go.
Anything from 1972 up threw the mid 2000's. Just look for a C&C truck and your golden. Yes anything proir to 00 will be drum, just remember to buy C&C disc brake brackets not SRW one's.

Jason.

1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt...

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post #22 of 25 Old 04-13-2013, 01:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DLWRUBI View Post
Well, not buying new wheels, these beadlocks were expensive. They also make a 5 on 5.5 conversion for a 14 bolt, not that big a deal. Good to know I can find one in my width. Will need 4.88's to match the front D60. What year C&C should I look for? And does it have the big drum brake setup on it? If so, those will have to go.
how much is the conversion? all the ones i've seen cost way more than a full set of 8 lug bead lock wheels. plus you can easily sell your current wheels for a pretty penny.

'97 zj 5.2, some stuff, some other suff, and some things that even work sometimes.

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post #23 of 25 Old 04-13-2013, 01:44 PM Thread Starter
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Solid has a hub conversion for $400, that's the cost of one of my wheels. Not to mention I would have to convert the front D60 hubs to 8 lug if I went that route. I don't see it being cheaper to switch over to 8 lug for me. I only have 430 TQ and 37's, seems pretty mild for a 14 bolt.
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post #24 of 25 Old 04-14-2013, 07:31 PM
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DLWRUBI -

A bit late to the game here, but I have personal experience with the 35 spline Dynatrac HP 60 in the rear of my rig. I'm running 40" Krawlers behind a supercharged I6 putting out around 400 torque through a 5.44 Atlas and 5:38's. I do wheel it fairly hard. I've smoked one set of gears already. Not a full-on failure, but I tweaked 7 or 8 teeth on the ring gear enough to have to replace. When I called Dynatrac to ask them if the failure was unusual, they told me I was pushing it with the HP setup. I now believe that I have done it again, as I am hearing the same noise from the rear as after the first failure. I am now contemplating a 14bolt. I would not recommend the HP60 with your setup.

Good luck!

Jeff
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post #25 of 25 Old 04-17-2013, 09:16 PM Thread Starter
DLWRUBI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NashvilleTJ View Post
DLWRUBI -

A bit late to the game here, but I have personal experience with the 35 spline Dynatrac HP 60 in the rear of my rig. I'm running 40" Krawlers behind a supercharged I6 putting out around 400 torque through a 5.44 Atlas and 5:38's. I do wheel it fairly hard. I've smoked one set of gears already. Not a full-on failure, but I tweaked 7 or 8 teeth on the ring gear enough to have to replace. When I called Dynatrac to ask them if the failure was unusual, they told me I was pushing it with the HP setup. I now believe that I have done it again, as I am hearing the same noise from the rear as after the first failure. I am now contemplating a 14bolt. I would not recommend the HP60 with your setup.

Good luck!

Jeff
Thanks Jeff, thats some valuble first hand experience. With your's and everyone elses feed back, I definately won't be doing a HP D60 rear setup.

I had my eye on a pretty stout LP FF 35 spline 9" but not sure if I want to go that route either. The pinion is low, but the F9 housing has good ground clearance and similar rear ends have lived through some pretty hard abuse, but then again, not sure its the right move. The 9" I had built for the race car was pretty darn stout and lived through alot of 7 second 1/4 mile passes in a 3500 lb car with no issue so I know they can be tough.

The 14 bolt does seem good way to go if I get it in my width I need, gear ratio, big disk brakes, shaved and selectable locker. I hate half assing it so just want it done right preferrable the first time.
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