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Unread 04-04-2013, 02:09 PM   #1
DLWRUBI
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Yj HP D60 Rear end and 450 HP?

Alright, I understand the HP rear ends are weaker than a LP rear end due to R&P riding on the coast side of the gears. What I can't find is any rating on the HP D60's or even the TrueHi9 for that matter. Can they handle 450 HP on 37's in lets say a 3800# vehicle? I'll be making call's but I think I already know the answer, just looking for opinions especially if anyone is doing it.

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Unread 04-04-2013, 03:48 PM   #2
222Doc
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anything can break. Just depends on how and why. Hp is a peak number that is about "work". Torque is about twist the s**** out of things. Unless you are running at WOT, hp means little. Most people think HP but torque is what they feal. Hp numbers sell cars, torque makes them move.

The weak links you will find with that kind of power and a heavy foot. From the clutch on back.
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Unread 04-04-2013, 05:24 PM   #3
DLWRUBI
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Thanks.

I knew I should of used TQ instead of HP but most only associate with HP, I understand the difference.

Just talked to Dynatrac and got a recommendation for their HP D60 with them knowing my expectations/specs and me flogging on it. I'll most likely go full float if I go this route, just cost a left nut..
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Unread 04-04-2013, 05:27 PM   #4
Ripper3494
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out of curiosity why a hp rear axle? and dynatrack makes a rear 80 that doesnt weigh much more than their 60s.

for what its worth im right at 400lb/ft of torque on a lp44. it works...
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1994 yj stretched, locked and loaded - 6.0l vortec lq4, 4l60e, np231, Dana 44s 37" interco trxus m/t, 3.5" bds front leafs, double triangulated 4 link rear on xj front coils.
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my on board alternator/welder write up
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/alternator-welder-write-up-1301614/[/url]
my tj 1/2 doors on a yj write up
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/tj-uppers-yj-half-doors-hard-top-installation-1417686/[/url]
RC vs BDS
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/rough-country-vs-bds-1461555/[/url]
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Unread 04-04-2013, 05:40 PM   #5
DLWRUBI
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Drive shaft angle for one. I think the D80 looses some ground clearance where as the dynatrac D60 is supposed to have better clearance than the D44. I'm actually ok with having the axle heavy and getting some COG back though.

I'm surprised you haven't broke that D44 with that 6.0L yet. I think you broke everything else so I'm hoping that rear stays together for you ...With you having no issues with your D44 it makes me wonder why I can't make my already built up 8.8 work, but I know I'll break it.
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Unread 04-04-2013, 06:09 PM   #6
Ripper3494
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How high are u lifting it? Or what trans t case combo are u running that is too long making it an issue?

And i broke the gears once but that was my setup error
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build thread:
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/94-yj-6-0-build-spud-1218315/[/url]
1994 yj stretched, locked and loaded - 6.0l vortec lq4, 4l60e, np231, Dana 44s 37" interco trxus m/t, 3.5" bds front leafs, double triangulated 4 link rear on xj front coils.
1997 ZJ limited - BONE stock
2003 tj - 4in skyjacker, 33" mickey thompsons
my on board alternator/welder write up
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/alternator-welder-write-up-1301614/[/url]
my tj 1/2 doors on a yj write up
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/tj-uppers-yj-half-doors-hard-top-installation-1417686/[/url]
RC vs BDS
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/rough-country-vs-bds-1461555/[/url]
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Unread 04-04-2013, 06:30 PM   #7
DLWRUBI
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Trying to keep it in the 4-5" lift max range and will do links and CO later on.

I'm using a built 4L60E and Atlas TC, which will be shorter than stock plus a little stretch. My 8.8 is already at 20-21 degree tilt without a belly up, so a HP would be nice especially with a belly up. Be nice to get the DS up high too.
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Unread 04-04-2013, 06:35 PM   #8
Ripper3494
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stretch it and you'll have no problems. not crazy stretch like mine but bring the rear back like 3-4" with a good set of clean cut rear fenders it'll be hardly noticeable other than the fact that it looks really proportional and rides nicer

TW makes some crazy double-double cardon drive shafts for large composite angles. you may look into those as well. not cheap, but cheaper than a dynatrac or HI9. though judging by how your planning your build budget doesn't seem to be a huge issue
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build thread:
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/94-yj-6-0-build-spud-1218315/[/url]
1994 yj stretched, locked and loaded - 6.0l vortec lq4, 4l60e, np231, Dana 44s 37" interco trxus m/t, 3.5" bds front leafs, double triangulated 4 link rear on xj front coils.
1997 ZJ limited - BONE stock
2003 tj - 4in skyjacker, 33" mickey thompsons
my on board alternator/welder write up
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/alternator-welder-write-up-1301614/[/url]
my tj 1/2 doors on a yj write up
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/tj-uppers-yj-half-doors-hard-top-installation-1417686/[/url]
RC vs BDS
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/rough-country-vs-bds-1461555/[/url]
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Unread 04-04-2013, 06:36 PM   #9
Ripper3494
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i just re read your post, i see you are planning on a little stretch anyway... duh
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build thread:
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/94-yj-6-0-build-spud-1218315/[/url]
1994 yj stretched, locked and loaded - 6.0l vortec lq4, 4l60e, np231, Dana 44s 37" interco trxus m/t, 3.5" bds front leafs, double triangulated 4 link rear on xj front coils.
1997 ZJ limited - BONE stock
2003 tj - 4in skyjacker, 33" mickey thompsons
my on board alternator/welder write up
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/alternator-welder-write-up-1301614/[/url]
my tj 1/2 doors on a yj write up
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/tj-uppers-yj-half-doors-hard-top-installation-1417686/[/url]
RC vs BDS
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/rough-country-vs-bds-1461555/[/url]
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Unread 04-04-2013, 08:53 PM   #10
DLWRUBI
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Yeah, just a 2" stretch front and 2 "rear. I already have a 64" wide Currie HP D60 for the front so thought I would try a 64" Dyntrac for the rear. I like the idea of a full float rear and I'm at a point that I don't want to do something one way because of a little cost difference and then wish I did it the way I wanted in the first place. I'm not sold on a HP rear yet but I'm leaning that way. The rear end and the cage is pretty much my last huge expense until I go links and coil overs next year. Right now just want to get the LS3/4L60E/Atlas swap done then suspension stuff will be a little easier.
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Unread 04-07-2013, 02:47 PM   #11
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I would avoid a HP rear end with that amount of power. I have a buddy that has a built 4.7L stroker and a HP 60 in the rear. He drives it hard but usually goes through a gear set every year. I just put a 5.3 in mine and I refused to put a HP 60 back there. It isn't worth the risk or cost to me. I would rather my weak link be an axle rather than a ring or pinion gear. I have between 2 and 3" of lift, bellyup skid, 37's, 4.56's and my driveline angle is about 16*. It will be even better when I stretch the rear back 5-6" this summer.

Plus you can build a killer full float junk yard 60 for $1200-1500 with 35 spline chromoly axles and a selectable locker. Look for one out of a late 90's ford econoline e350 for a smooth bottom 60. It has no lip to grab rocks, big spindles to fit 35 spline shafts, 3 5/8" axle tube, and dual piston disc brakes.
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Unread 04-07-2013, 05:10 PM   #12
jason m
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rckchucker View Post
I would avoid a HP rear end with that amount of power. I have a buddy that has a built 4.7L stroker and a HP 60 in the rear. He drives it hard but usually goes through a gear set every year. I just put a 5.3 in mine and I refused to put a HP 60 back there. It isn't worth the risk or cost to me. I would rather my weak link be an axle rather than a ring or pinion gear. I have between 2 and 3" of lift, bellyup skid, 37's, 4.56's and my driveline angle is about 16*. It will be even better when I stretch the rear back 5-6" this summer.

Plus you can build a killer full float junk yard 60 for $1200-1500 with 35 spline chromoly axles and a selectable locker. Look for one out of a late 90's ford econoline e350 for a smooth bottom 60. It has no lip to grab rocks, big spindles to fit 35 spline shafts, 3 5/8" axle tube, and dual piston disc brakes.
Or just dump a 150-200 dollar 14 bolt in and shave the lips off.

Op, HPs have there place front axles, or can be made to work in the rear just need to limit the power, your asking to much of the R&P.

The only axles I would trust as a HP in a rear is a Dana 80 or a HO72 but of course your motor would have to be in the back to make them work as a HP

Jason.
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Unread 04-08-2013, 10:07 PM   #13
DLWRUBI
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Thanks for the input guys, appreciate it.

I have some thinking to do since I'm all over the map on this. I don't like my DS angle, but HP is weaker than LP which I knew, just hoping it would have fit the bill. Dam, it was easy to make a killer 9" hold up to 2K HP at the strip, thought this would be cake ..
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Unread 04-09-2013, 05:50 AM   #14
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I've seen and heard of a lot of high dollar 9" guts spilled on the rocks.
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Unread 04-11-2013, 08:30 PM   #15
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The KOH guys run 10in ring gears and 35 spline shafts in the fabricated 9in housings. Thats the only way the make them survive.
Don't forget that crank HP is different from wheel HP. Because you are using a 4l60e you will have some drive line loss, but not as much as a 4l80e or TH400. You could probably make a HP 60 last, but it would be so much easier to cut the lip on a 14 bolt and run a pinko guard and just live with it. And with that much horsepower you won't be able to keep your foot out of the stupid pedal, so the strength will be really nice.
Just stretch the jeep, With 37s you need a 100"+ wheelbase to really enjoy them.
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