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Unread 02-15-2013, 09:47 AM   #1
90xjcjf
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home brew full hydro steering pics

Is there anyone out here that has some detailed pics of home brew hydro steering on an old cj? I'm building a 76 cj5 and ill be running 37" tires and want to have better steering on a budget. Jeep parts r high these days lol. I've used the search function but I guess my key words don't match . Thanks

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Unread 02-15-2013, 10:14 AM   #2
BlueRubiconrich
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there was a write up about drilling out the fitting on the brakes to the next drill size I did it and it helps. also try running a cooler.
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86 CJ7 258,T18,Scout Dana300,twin sticks,Dana44's,4W Disc, locked,35's,YORK OBA,Warn 8274,fullcage.
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Unread 02-15-2013, 10:21 AM   #3
90xjcjf
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My problem is that I don't want the box getting pulled off the frame. I had a xj and the box on it tore thru the frame

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Unread 02-15-2013, 10:23 AM   #4
BlueRubiconrich
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they sell HD brackets and braces 4WD.com
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Rubicon Rich ,05 TJ Rubicon: PatriotJeepers.com
86 CJ7 258,T18,Scout Dana300,twin sticks,Dana44's,4W Disc, locked,35's,YORK OBA,Warn 8274,fullcage.
51 M100 1/4 ton Jeep trailer
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Unread 02-15-2013, 10:34 AM   #5
90xjcjf
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Yeah I know that but I think hydro would be a better option. I'm not ready for the steering yet, the engine is just now almost together, then i got the rear suspension to build and then the front end

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Unread 02-15-2013, 04:27 PM   #6
jason m
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http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f369/...steer-1304160/

I got some info in my build. Maybe around page 3-4.

Jason.
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1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
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Unread 02-15-2013, 05:15 PM   #7
90xjcjf
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jason m
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f369/...steer-1304160/

I got some info in my build. Maybe around page 3-4.

Jason.
Thanks man ill take a look at it

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Unread 02-15-2013, 05:21 PM   #8
90xjcjf
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jason m
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f369/...steer-1304160/

I got some info in my build. Maybe around page 3-4.

Jason.
That was a good thread to look off of. That rear cylinder looks like the one they have at tractor supply. Thanks again

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Unread 02-15-2013, 07:28 PM   #9
jason m
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 90xjcjf View Post
That was a good thread to look off of. That rear cylinder looks like the one they have at tractor supply. Thanks again

Sent from my jeep while hanging from a cliff
Yep its a tractor supply one all right, what ever fittings and lines I did'nt reuse from the doner fork truck I bought them new from there.

Jason.
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1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
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Unread 02-15-2013, 09:12 PM   #10
90xjcjf
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jason m

Yep its a tractor supply one all right, what ever fittings and lines I did'nt reuse from the doner fork truck I bought them new from there.

Jason.
Ok so u used a fork lift steering valve. I haven't read all the way thru ur build just looked at the pics u had. Ill read all of it tonight so I can see how u set it up. Also ur still running a 4.0l and are u still using the stock pump and pulley? Ill probably get that answer when I read the whole thing lol. Thanks for the nice reply, I was expecting someone to be rude bout what I'm wanting to do. It's nice to get friendly advice. Do u have any other closer pics of the front end?

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Unread 02-16-2013, 03:40 PM   #11
jason m
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No problem on the help thats what this site is for. No I dont think I have to many detail pics of the front ram installed or the mount.

Yes still running a 4.0 they have plenty of power to break the 39's loose, no on the stock pump. I run a Chevy P-pump in stock from, In other words I didn't mod the pump, like drilling the port open to the next step or strecting the pressure spring.

The fork truck valve is a 4.5 cubic inch sized valve. So what that means in terms of us in the offroad world is it will turn ruffly 4 turns lock to lock. Its no the "best" valve to run but they can be found cheap and are open center valves with a built in gyrotor.
What that means if I loose engine power the valve has a internal pump so steering is hard to do but can still be done.
Think about it a fork truck driving threw a warehouse, runs out of propane it still needs to coast and steer to a stop.

Valves to avoid are closed center ones as they use a differnet style pump to run them. Best way to tell a closed center is if it has a 5th port on the side, if no port still run the numbers, it could have no 5th prt and still be closed center. The lack of a 5th port is a good spotting guide in the feild when looking for valves, but again numbers are the tell all.

I might have not posted alot of info on the valve or valves I used but I'm happy to answer any questions here for ya.

Oh lastly a stock T/C pump on a 4.0 could work or would work, but pump mods will be needed and a larger Res will be needed. I can explain those if you decide to go that rought.

Jason.
__________________
1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
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Unread 02-16-2013, 03:49 PM   #12
90xjcjf
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1990 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: van buren, arkansas
Posts: 49
Quote:
Originally Posted by jason m
No problem on the help thats what this site is for. No I dont think I have to many detail pics of the front ram installed or the mount.

Yes still running a 4.0 they have plenty of power to break the 39's loose, no on the stock pump. I run a Chevy P-pump in stock from, In other words I didn't mod the pump, like drilling the port open to the next step or strecting the pressure spring.

The fork truck valve is a 4.5 cubic inch sized valve. So what that means in terms of us in the offroad world is it will turn ruffly 4 turns lock to lock. Its no the "best" valve to run but they can be found cheap and are open center valves with a built in gyrotor.
What that means if I loose engine power the valve has a internal pump so steering is hard to do but can still be done.
Think about it a fork truck driving threw a warehouse, runs out of propane it still needs to coast and steer to a stop.

Valves to avoid are closed center ones as they use a differnet style pump to run them. Best way to tell a closed center is if it has a 5th port on the side, if no port still run the numbers, it could have no 5th prt and still be closed center. The lack of a 5th port is a good spotting guide in the feild when looking for valves, but again numbers are the tell all.

I might have not posted alot of info on the valve or valves I used but I'm happy to answer any questions here for ya.

Oh lastly a stock T/C pump on a 4.0 could work or would work, but pump mods will be needed and a larger Res will be needed. I can explain those if you decide to go that rought.

Jason.
Awesome, that helps a ton. I need to find a fork truck salvage around the southwest Missouri area. Ill save this info for reference. Glad ppl will still help unlike on pirate.

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Unread 02-16-2013, 03:52 PM   #13
90xjcjf
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Ill be running a xj 4.0l cuz I ha it left over from my xj. Ill snag a chevy pump, or I have an old 304 amc that was in the cj when I got it that has a p/s pump on it, wonder if that will work.

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Unread 02-16-2013, 04:01 PM   #14
jason m
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 90xjcjf View Post
Ill be running a xj 4.0l cuz I ha it left over from my xj. Ill snag a chevy pump, or I have an old 304 amc that was in the cj when I got it that has a p/s pump on it, wonder if that will work.

Sent from my jeep while hanging from a cliff
Not sure on the pumps on the AMC's, they look alot like P syle pumps but the reasion I went Chevy is I know the ones pulled from a one ton ( even a two wheel drive one ) would have a hydro boost braking system. Which means it will have a higher than normall pressure to run the hydro brakes and the steering at once if needed.

I had to make my own bracket and used a PSC 3.5" pully on the pump to get a faster spin speed at slower RPMs. There are mods like drilling the port over one step to increase flow, and stretching the spring to put more pressure on the out flow, that will make for more pressure in the system.

Theres even a certon amount of washers on the pressure port fitting that can make differnet pressures. So yes theres alot a stock pump can be made to handle and there tons cheaper than a after market one, which for the most part ar the same things as a stock one with Mods done to it.

Jason.
__________________
1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
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Unread 02-16-2013, 04:07 PM   #15
90xjcjf
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1990 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: van buren, arkansas
Posts: 49
Quote:
Originally Posted by jason m

Not sure on the pumps on the AMC's, they look alot like P syle pumps but the reasion I went Chevy is I know the ones pulled from a one ton ( even a two wheel drive one ) would have a hydro boost braking system. Which means it will have a higher than normall pressure to run the hydro brakes and the steering at once if needed.

I had to make my own bracket and used a PSC 3.5" pully on the pump to get a faster spin speed at slower RPMs. There are mods like drilling the port over one step to increase flow, and stretching the spring to put more pressure on the out flow, that will make for more pressure in the system.

Theres even a certon amount of washers on the pressure port fitting that can make differnet pressures. So yes theres alot a stock pump can be made to handle and there tons cheaper than a after market one, which for the most part ar the same things as a stock one with Mods done to it.

Jason.
I knew there was a way to do what I wanted with parts that don't cost over 1200-1800 dollars. U have no idea what kind I help u have been. I love jeep stuff and I don't have an unlimited bank account lol.

Sent from my jeep while hanging from a cliff
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