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Unread 11-04-2012, 06:39 PM   #1
jason m
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Giant Heim joints

Well over the next year and probally longer I will be building a buggy, it will be a single seat, rear engine style. I'm building it to take alot of abuse and with simple proven parts, TBI 350, TH-475, Ford 205, 60 front and a Eaton steering axle in the rear.
I will start a build thread in the build area, but for now I will post here some of the detail parts I'm building for it like these monster Heim joints.

Why such over size Heim joints, well I have the inserts, they where free. I need to build bodys and then some threaded rods for them. Once all the bodys are built then its off to the Mis. spacers which will be from 6061 ALU.

Heres a comparison Pic, thats a 7/8" heim joint, those will be my uppers.

Now I have 4 that are left handed and look just like that one posted, so I need 4 right handed ones.

For now here are the bodys ( well one body for now ) being built.

Started with a chunk of dana 70 tube which was 3.5"x 1/2" wall.

I cut it to two inchs, well actually I cut them about a 1/16" over sized as my band saw balde is bad and I knew it would walk.

The part in the Lathe and i'm just starting the ID cut.


Heres the finished part next to the Heim insert, that insert is the 1.5" Heim.


And the last one for now is the Hiem pressed into the new body.


For a threaded rod I have about 8' of 1.5X6 pitch ( course ) rod that will be welded to the Hiem body. Then I need to make some weld in bungs with the tap I have, my arms will look like popie when done tapping all the bungs and nuts, but this is what I like building.
More to come,

Jason.

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1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
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Unread 11-05-2012, 10:20 AM   #2
ratmonkey
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What grade threaded Rod?
Honestly, I'll take a normal size joint with a forged body over any size with the shank welded on.
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Unread 11-05-2012, 12:31 PM   #3
ltrail
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Glad to hear after all the good advice you like building poop. Those are gnarly, I like the rebuildable part. That's why I got ballistics all around my rears on one end are adjustable and are only bolts welded on after lopping the heads off(even though all the pirate guys said they junk)

If one does break in sure he'll have spares and I can't argue with keeping cost down if you have the means to make your own junk. I'll be watching this..

You gonna make misalignments to take that down to a reasonable bolt size? That hole looks to be 1.5" judging by the puny look it gives to the 7/8 Heim.
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Unread 11-05-2012, 03:34 PM   #4
jason m
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ratmonkey View Post
What grade threaded Rod?
Honestly, I'll take a normal size joint with a forged body over any size with the shank welded on.
1.5" threaded rod, but its not just some crappy pig steel rod its a higher grade than normall. They will be welded 100% to the Hiem body.

If they break I will be the first one to admit it, but I dought a 4K buggy is going to bend or break a 1.5" rod, again if it does then I will admit they where a bad idea.
Yes I'm going to building a some Mis. spacers to reduce the size of the 1.5" dai of the down to 3/4" as i have a alot of grade 8 3/4" bolts and nuts.

jason.
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1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
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Unread 11-07-2012, 09:23 AM   #5
KingtheZJ
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honestly, for all the work you are going to have to put into those i would never consider using them.

get 1.25" Ruffstuff joints and be done. you arent going to break them, and they will be much more reliable in the end.
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Unread 11-07-2012, 06:06 PM   #6
jason m
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KingtheZJ View Post
honestly, for all the work you are going to have to put into those i would never consider using them.

get 1.25" Ruffstuff joints and be done. you arent going to break them, and they will be much more reliable in the end.
Spend around 600.00 dollars on ruffstuff joints or spend zero and just my time on the lathe, I have all the parts they cost me nothing.

See you have to understand something, I like building small detail parts, I like when people see my Jeep and notice the one of kind parts or the lack of after market gear on my Jeep.
So the buggy I want the same thing, I want a true hand crafted rig. There was a time before Artic, before Balistic where parts were made buy the builder.
Now every other build I open up is brown truck after brown truck of somebodys else's parts slapped onto there rig.
I agree most dont have the tools or the know how or just the time to build every part, I do.

So yes in some sence your right picking up the phone and ordering some joints would be the easyer thing to do, but cost wise and my time this is a beter choice for me, thanks.

Jason.
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1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
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Unread 11-07-2012, 08:10 PM   #7
91BoD
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That's what I like to hear! More power to you! 1.5" rod should be plenty stout. Although I would recommend fine thread instead of course thread. Stronger with more adjustment.

I look forward to watching your build.
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Unread 11-22-2012, 07:38 AM   #8
aparke4
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Progress?
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Unread 11-22-2012, 06:33 PM   #9
jason m
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aparke4 View Post
Progress?
There all cut I just need to work on the snap ring groves.

I got side tracked on the lathe, I wanted to see how I can cut threads and ive been fine tunning my skills on that.
I might weld the Heim body to the 2" link and use just the all ready threaded one's I have on the other end. This way I only need to build 4 inserts and Jam nuts.

Jason.
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1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
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Unread 11-27-2012, 07:24 PM   #10
bgredjeep
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For the shank, I run all my lowers with the same thread. Once you get it locked in you shouldn't need to adjust it again (not really hard to do even if you need to), and you don't need to worry about hauling spares for both directions, or in your case making them.

I'd also consider running a standard size shank so that you don't have to rebuild your links if these fail and you end up with a set of 1.25"s from ruffstuff.
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Unread 11-27-2012, 07:59 PM   #11
jason m
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgredjeep View Post
For the shank, I run all my lowers with the same thread. Once you get it locked in you shouldn't need to adjust it again (not really hard to do even if you need to), and you don't need to worry about hauling spares for both directions, or in your case making them.

I'd also consider running a standard size shank so that you don't have to rebuild your links if these fail and you end up with a set of 1.25"s from ruffstuff.
Thats how I run my current 4 link on the Jeep all one Heim uppers and lowers.

I dought they will fail, these Heim bodys are used on D-3 and D-4 dozers. There used for the angle of the blade and in the ends of the rods, ive seen dozers with 4K hours and the tracks mostly worn down and the Hiems bodys are just starting to get loose.
So in my 4K LBS or so buggy I think they will be fine.

Just a quick update, I need a new tool holder for the lathe, this one had a little crack in it and was causing to much chatter in the tool, made the cuts look like crap.

So in the mean time I made a mid plate, this will sit between the TH-475 and the 350 motor and act as a extra mount. Starting on the axle's next week, need to flip the Chevy low pinon and make it into a high pinion

Jason.
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1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
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Unread 11-27-2012, 08:04 PM   #12
Ripper3494
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if i had em id use em but holy balls those are huge, i just bought 1.25 heims for my 4 link and those dwarf them
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build thread:
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/94-yj-6-0-build-spud-1218315/[/url]
1994 yj stretched, locked and loaded - 6.0l vortec lq4, 4l60e, np231, Dana 44s 37" interco trxus m/t, 3.5" bds front leafs, double triangulated 4 link rear on xj front coils.
1997 ZJ limited - BONE stock
2003 tj - 4in skyjacker, 33" mickey thompsons
my on board alternator/welder write up
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/alternator-welder-write-up-1301614/[/url]
my tj 1/2 doors on a yj write up
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/tj-uppers-yj-half-doors-hard-top-installation-1417686/[/url]
RC vs BDS
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/rough-country-vs-bds-1461555/[/url]
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Unread 11-27-2012, 08:06 PM   #13
Ripper3494
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jason m View Post
Thats how I run my current 4 link on the Jeep all one Heim uppers and lowers.

I dought they will fail, these Heim bodys are used on D-3 and D-4 dozers. There used for the angle of the blade and in the ends of the rods, ive seen dozers with 4K hours and the tracks mostly worn down and the Hiems bodys are just starting to get loose.
So in my 4K LBS or so buggy I think they will be fine.

Just a quick update, I need a new tool holder for the lathe, this one had a little crack in it and was causing to much chatter in the tool, made the cuts look like crap.

So in the mean time I made a mid plate, this will sit between the TH-475 and the 350 motor and act as a extra mount. Starting on the axle's next week, need to flip the Chevy low pinon and make it into a high pinion

Jason.
wouldnt flipping it cause problems with oil delivery to the pinion bearing. i guess your not going fast but just a question
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build thread:
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/94-yj-6-0-build-spud-1218315/[/url]
1994 yj stretched, locked and loaded - 6.0l vortec lq4, 4l60e, np231, Dana 44s 37" interco trxus m/t, 3.5" bds front leafs, double triangulated 4 link rear on xj front coils.
1997 ZJ limited - BONE stock
2003 tj - 4in skyjacker, 33" mickey thompsons
my on board alternator/welder write up
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/alternator-welder-write-up-1301614/[/url]
my tj 1/2 doors on a yj write up
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/tj-uppers-yj-half-doors-hard-top-installation-1417686/[/url]
RC vs BDS
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/rough-country-vs-bds-1461555/[/url]
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Unread 11-27-2012, 08:18 PM   #14
jason m
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ripper3494 View Post
wouldnt flipping it cause problems with oil delivery to the pinion bearing. i guess your not going fast but just a question
You know that comes up alot on Pirate. I guess the Idea is run extra oil, maybe run thinner oil to move it faster, not really sure.
Yes this will be a crawler, but I'm starting to see more and more short rock raceing and its sparked my intrest.

I see alot of KOH rigs that run rear engines and they seem to manage with flipped 60's or a 14 bolts. So maybe in 5 years I will need to swap out a cooked pinion bearing but thats par for course.

The rear eaton axle will get a oil scraper casue I have room to build one insde the 3rd and the ring is moving forward. So in my mind the oil coming off the ring can get chanelled to the pinion and maybe block off the bottom port to slow its return down.

The ruff stuff joints are top notch, that was my plan till I "stumbled" across the Heim bodys and said "I can make these work".

Jason.
__________________
1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
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Unread 11-27-2012, 10:03 PM   #15
Ripper3494
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cool i was just wondering. cant wait to see your progress
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build thread:
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/94-yj-6-0-build-spud-1218315/[/url]
1994 yj stretched, locked and loaded - 6.0l vortec lq4, 4l60e, np231, Dana 44s 37" interco trxus m/t, 3.5" bds front leafs, double triangulated 4 link rear on xj front coils.
1997 ZJ limited - BONE stock
2003 tj - 4in skyjacker, 33" mickey thompsons
my on board alternator/welder write up
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/alternator-welder-write-up-1301614/[/url]
my tj 1/2 doors on a yj write up
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/tj-uppers-yj-half-doors-hard-top-installation-1417686/[/url]
RC vs BDS
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/rough-country-vs-bds-1461555/[/url]
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