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post #1 of 14 Old 09-30-2013, 06:30 PM Thread Starter
cherokeecrawler
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Front Superduty d60 swap question

I have seen some people do this, mostly on yj's and JK's but I would be doing it on an xj. Only reason I am considering it is because KP 60s are over a grand and I can get an 06 front 60 complete for 375. I already have a rear 60 but it is a 79. I have also seen where people convert the metric bolt pattern to the 8 on 6.5. Anyone that has any help on this topic please let me know

Thanks

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post #2 of 14 Old 09-30-2013, 07:24 PM
underpowered
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I have seen guys Re-drill the hubs on the newer models to the old bolt pattern, only way i have seen it done.

1998 ZJ-- lowered a touch

2005 GMC 2500HD 496 C.I.

Fat Amy-1989 K5 blazer. Linked, lifted, 38.5's on won tons. Big Girls can play in the woods too.
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post #3 of 14 Old 10-01-2013, 01:48 PM
Bama_WJ
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You can get a standard 8 lug pattern and upgrade to a 35 spline outer with Branik unit bearings.

Daniel
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post #4 of 14 Old 10-01-2013, 09:23 PM
Jeepin72
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I have a ball joint Ford 60 in my heep. Granted it is a from a 96. What do you plan to do for control arms? Coils, air shock, or coil overs?

I spent a ton of time making mine work with a coil and radius arm suspension. Dealing with the short side can be done, but it takes a ton of work and creativity to fit the coil and find room for the LCA brackets. It can be done and works out.

Building for coil overs, air shocks, or struts, would have been easier in retrospect.

All that said, the drive shaft still fits nicely in the tunnel and the pumpkin doesn't even come close to the oil pan which can be KP build problems.

Sky's Off Road Design can machine ball joint knuckles for a high steer arm so you can build a slick cross over steering set up. Ruff Stuff has the tapers to drill out the knuckles and flit the tie rod and swap in GM TRE's. I had to use offset GM TRE's to clear the new heavy duty diff cover.
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post #5 of 14 Old 10-02-2013, 05:12 AM
Bama_WJ
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Or you can swap to Solid knuckles to run a traditional hub/spindle setup.

Or keep your OEM knuckles and run a free spin kit from Solid, Dynatrac, Ballistic, etc.

Daniel
1 Ton WJ Build In Progress

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Wife's Jeep: 2006 WK Overland - OME HD Lift, 265/70/17 BFG AT's, 1.25" SpiderTrax wheel spacers, 3" Gibson Cat-Back

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post #6 of 14 Old 10-02-2013, 07:11 AM
jason m
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepin72 View Post
All that said, the drive shaft still fits nicely in the tunnel and the pumpkin doesn't even come close to the oil pan which can be KP build problems.
.
Small correction, its a 78/79 KP problem. I know what you ment when you typed it out, but I don't want others getting confused thinking "all" KP models can get in the way of the oil pan exhaust area.

The 85 up axles are much better platforms to start with if you think clearance will be an issue. I run a 78 60 front and the front pinion is hell on my down pipe, its got holes and its dented in, but Im off road only so it can leak all it wants.

OP you have to ask your self if you can get the axle cheap whats it going to cost to make it work. If you were going to keep all the outer metric then I would say 375 is a great deal. But you want to convert it over to a standard pattern, which is not hard to do for the average machine shop but still cost money.

Then figure there is a decent amount of after market now for them, but things like high steer for them are more complicated compared to a KP axle. Food for thought, just remember the old saying is true just cause its cheap it may not be worth it.

Jason.

1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt...
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f149/...buggy-3693817/
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post #7 of 14 Old 10-02-2013, 10:56 AM Thread Starter
cherokeecrawler
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Yeah I'm not worried about the bolt pattern I'm just worried about the cast in brackets on the driver side for the factory ford links. I am not planning on coil overs so I think but will be too tough to get my springs buckets set and lower CA mount in on the driver side. This is an 06. Really want a late 80s or 90s one but they are too damn expensive.
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post #8 of 14 Old 10-02-2013, 11:04 AM Thread Starter
cherokeecrawler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jason m View Post
Sm
OP you have to ask your self if you can get the axle cheap whats it going to cost to make it work. If you were going to keep all the outer metric then I would say 375 is a great deal. But you want to convert it over to a standard pattern, which is not hard to do for the average machine shop but still cost money.

Then figure there is a decent amount of after market now for them, but things like high steer for them are more complicated compared to a KP axle. Food for thought, just remember the old saying is true just cause its cheap it may not be worth it.

Jason.
Jason your are right. That's what I am trying to weigh out because I can get a 60 like I want for about a grand. I don't think I can make the metric SD axle thebwayvi want it for 600 bucks. Thanks for the input
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post #9 of 14 Old 10-03-2013, 12:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cherokeecrawler View Post
Yeah I'm not worried about the bolt pattern I'm just worried about the cast in brackets on the driver side for the factory ford links. I am not planning on coil overs so I think but will be too tough to get my springs buckets set and lower CA mount in on the driver side. This is an 06. Really want a late 80s or 90s one but they are too damn expensive.
That 06 axle is a better axle. 35 spline inner/outer and beef knuckles.
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post #10 of 14 Old 10-03-2013, 08:04 PM
underpowered
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and 06's have strong unit bearings as well, much better than older models.

1998 ZJ-- lowered a touch

2005 GMC 2500HD 496 C.I.

Fat Amy-1989 K5 blazer. Linked, lifted, 38.5's on won tons. Big Girls can play in the woods too.
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post #11 of 14 Old 10-04-2013, 10:03 AM Thread Starter
cherokeecrawler
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Yeah I'm just no sure what to do. What would be the simplest and cheapest fix to the bolt pattern? And are there any high steer options for this new of an axle?
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post #12 of 14 Old 10-04-2013, 07:52 PM
Jeepin72
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From the research I did when I built my ball joint 60, Sky Off Road and Design and one other company out in cali (who had a tv show who's name fails me) were the only folks that would machine the knuckles to accept the arm and supply said arm and steering links if needed.

When I built my BJ 60 I built a cross over set up with the drag link off of a high steer arm. I flipped the tie rid to the top of the OEM knuckle using parts from Ruff Stuff. The tie rod is above the centerline of the tube for sure.
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post #13 of 14 Old 10-04-2013, 09:19 PM
Bama_WJ
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Here are my high steer arms for my 03 axle.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bama_WJ View Post


Look up FORDTECHGURU on Pirate.

He's working on something similar with the 05+ axles.

Daniel
1 Ton WJ Build In Progress

The Daily: 2011 Chevy Cruze Eco - Trifecta tuned and 37+ MPG

Wife's Jeep: 2006 WK Overland - OME HD Lift, 265/70/17 BFG AT's, 1.25" SpiderTrax wheel spacers, 3" Gibson Cat-Back

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42RE Vent Mod - Seal your transmission!
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post #14 of 14 Old 10-05-2013, 01:35 PM
jason m
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Just keep the add on parts under the cost of a KP axle and that 06 axle will be worth it. Once you step over that line it adds up quick and axles always bog down a build trust me.

Jason.

1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt...
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f149/...buggy-3693817/
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