Ford 8.8 axle tube welding - Page 2 -
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post #16 of 20 Old 02-23-2013, 07:15 PM
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At work we used to lay a base coat with nickel rod and then burn into that with 7018. Be sure to keep things meticulously clean. This was on caterpillars getting rebuilt. After welding the frames and blocks they would be re-machined. Good for another 40 years of 16-hr days.

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post #17 of 20 Old 02-24-2013, 11:06 AM
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I don't use 7018 just for the simple fact of having to keep them in a rod oven.

I use 6011 on just about everything I do. It produces beautiful welds without hardly any effort. The trick is to slow down your travel, let it pool up enough. It has a strong arc and great penetration. If you slow down your travel speed and watch the dark cherry red pool behind the bright orange slag pool you will get much better results. Newbies make the mistake of watching the slag pool thinking that's the weld, but the true weld puddle is just behind it. That is why newbies welds look like crap. That and they move the rod too fast. On a side note. If your helmet shade is too dark, then you won't be able to see the dark cherry red pool.
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post #18 of 20 Old 02-24-2013, 05:16 PM Thread Starter
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I think I will pre and post heat the axle and burn it in with my mig and see what happens.
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post #19 of 20 Old 03-04-2013, 09:53 PM
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Just started building my 8.8. I felt like it was too easy welding to cast. Is there something I'm missing? Heated it pretty good with a blowtorch and welded up the bung for the tone ring. Used flux on my 140. Looks nice. What concerns should there be when welding cast? I want to start plating the bottom tomorrow (making a skid that is, welding to the diff housing, making it easier for rocks to slid) kinda worried to much plate will tweak/crack the housing from heat? Or is that not a concern?

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post #20 of 20 Old 03-05-2013, 06:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Hussler View Post
I felt like it was too easy welding to cast.
Thats because it is easy welding to a casted center sectoin. A lot of people put to much thought into it, yes clean it to shinney metal, then remove any form of dirt or greese, put a little pre-heat and have at it.

Welding the tubes or the top of a truss is a just insurance to keep parts locked in better. Its not intended to put all the force from your rig them, so welding the tubes and to the top just helps spreed the load around.


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