I am getting ready to swap a ford 8.8 in my YJ and I want to weld the axle tubes to the pumpkin. I have been doing some searching on the internet and get mixed results. I will be using my Miller 211. Some sights say to use high nickle wire other say regular wire is fine. I figured I would get some opinions on here before I try anything. Thanks
This is not a recommendation, just saying... I didn't know steel/cast welding was a big deal when I welded mine 7-8 years ago, so I just welded it like it was all steel with my MIG. Alls well since then.
This is what I did. I found a junk rotor and welded scraps of steel to it. Once I was comfortable with welding the two together, I moved to my axle.
I welded one inch at a time on one side, then the other. Waited an hour. Then welded the opposite side of the tube, then the other. I did this until the tubes were fully welded to the pumpkin.
I welded my rear axle a couple years ago in February in weather that was in the teens with my Hobart 140 with FLUX wire.
same here, everything ive welded on my jeep is from my Hobart 140
98 ZJ 5.5in hybrid long arm/35"TSLs/4.7 Golen Stroker/Kevin's front bumper/TrailReady rear/hp30/d44/4.56/oba/dual battery/rocklights/milemarker9k.Way to much to list.
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I've built several things for my Jeep with a Lincoln weld pack 100. The bumpers have taken a pounding and are still good and solid. They are 3/8 and under steel. The axle housing is is cast steel and the tubes are usually high carbon steel if I remember correctly so those being welded together require preheat and post weld controlled cooling in order to do it right. That is what I was taught however if you have done it and it works and holds that's what counts. So did you do any preheating? I want to know so I can do the same. I'm not trying to be a pain or smart a**.
Keep your boogger hook off the bang button!
When all else fails... ham radio is there!
If you have to use stick and want a weld that doesn't look like hammered sh*t then I'd recommend the 7018. When considering filler metal for strength keep in mind the 70 or 60 at the start of the 7018 or 6010 indicates the tensile strength of that rod.
As far as doing this without preheat... that's up to you but I'd take the time and do it. At a minimum it will burn off some oils that may still be on the metals.. it also helps the weld tie in better, and it reduces distortion, it reduces the heat affected zone surrounding the weld (where it will break first if it gets tempered) by spreading the heat over a larger area so you don't have just a narrow strip of rapidly cooled metal right next to the weld. Make sure you clean the areas where you'll be welding of rust, paint, anything but clean metal.. unless you want to have the welds look like swiss cheese.