flat belly, long arm 3 link, cross member design - JeepForum.com
Search  
Sign Up   Today's Posts
User: Pass: Remember?
Advertise Here
Jeep Home Jeep Forum Jeep Classifieds Jeep Registry JeepSpace Jeep Reviews Jeep Gallery Jeep Clubs Jeep Groups Jeep Videos Jeep Events Jeep Articles
Go Back JeepForum.com > General Technical Discussions > Advanced Jeep Tech > flat belly, long arm 3 link, cross member design

Introducing MONSTALINER™ UV Permanent DIY Roll On Bed LineFS: 2007-2013 Jeep Wrangler "HALO" Angel Eye KitFS: Wranger BRIGHT License Plate LED! Just $3! Great value

Reply
Unread 11-03-2012, 12:29 PM   #1
ltrail
Registered User
1984 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: mesa, AZ
Posts: 1,451
flat belly, long arm 3 link, cross member design

Getting to that point in the heeps life where the engine is almost ready to go in and I am figuring how to do the cross member. All my links are coming off the cross member and I want to know if anyone has good pics of how you got your driveshaft through it. I've seen people cut that section and build up and over the shaft but I think it's gross. Any other ideas? I will likely clock it up some but may not, time will tell for the clocking idea. My drive train will sit above frame rail so I can keep it all out of harms way. Already missing the floor so no clearance issues with sheet metal.

Fire away gentlemen!

__________________
84 xj 350tbi, sm465, 203/205, 60/70. links and other junk.
what size sawzall blades does it take to fit 40's?
ltrail is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-04-2012, 06:38 PM   #2
biggoofy
Registered User
1996 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Troy, NC Uwharrie
Posts: 4,183
Carrier bearing
__________________
[CENTER]Zack

96 ZJ HP44 / 9"
90 XJ on 33s
RIP Troy aka BigBlueZJ94

FroBot Fab FTW

[URL="http://www.mallcrawlin.com/forum/showthread.php?22776-Biggoofy-s-96-ZJ-build!-**Building-axles**"]My Build[/URL]


Need quality parts call Andy at Ironman4x4fab!!!!!
[url]http://ironman4x4fab.com/index.html[/url]
[/CENTER]
biggoofy is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-05-2012, 08:39 AM   #3
ltrail
Registered User
1984 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: mesa, AZ
Posts: 1,451
I'm trying to avoid 2 piece shaft if at all possible. More joints I have the more potential for breakage. Thinking I'll clock the case up as far as I can(with no floor this should be easy) without interfaces with where my seat needs to be. And possibly notch the x member with half piece of a large diameter tube. One of my main concerns is when clocking it up my driveshaft angle could be steeper than I want at the axle, or that it hits x member at droop on driver side.
__________________
84 xj 350tbi, sm465, 203/205, 60/70. links and other junk.
what size sawzall blades does it take to fit 40's?
ltrail is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-05-2012, 10:11 AM   #4
biggoofy
Registered User
1996 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Troy, NC Uwharrie
Posts: 4,183
Yea I can understand that
__________________
[CENTER]Zack

96 ZJ HP44 / 9"
90 XJ on 33s
RIP Troy aka BigBlueZJ94

FroBot Fab FTW

[URL="http://www.mallcrawlin.com/forum/showthread.php?22776-Biggoofy-s-96-ZJ-build!-**Building-axles**"]My Build[/URL]


Need quality parts call Andy at Ironman4x4fab!!!!!
[url]http://ironman4x4fab.com/index.html[/url]
[/CENTER]
biggoofy is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-06-2012, 09:35 AM   #5
ltrail
Registered User
1984 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: mesa, AZ
Posts: 1,451
Thinking I've figured it out. I'm going to keep cross member back as far as I can. And possibly notch for clearance if needed.
__________________
84 xj 350tbi, sm465, 203/205, 60/70. links and other junk.
what size sawzall blades does it take to fit 40's?
ltrail is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-08-2012, 08:11 AM   #6
Imped
Web Wheeler
 
Imped's Avatar
2004 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 19,077
Just don't move it too far back, otherwise the links will be too steep. Xmember mounted lowers are great for clearance (assuming nothing below rails) but tend to compromise geometry unless the arms are as long as possible. You'll definitely want to make sure the lower axle link mounts are as high as you can get them. This, among a few other reasons, is why I prefer high-clearance frame-mounted lower link mounts.
__________________
OlllllllO
Float Test Build
IndyORV
Imped is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-08-2012, 08:55 AM   #7
jason m
Web Wheeler
 
jason m's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Holland mass USA
Posts: 2,761
Don't rule out a two piece front drive, built with the right pillow blocks they are very strong. Ive built several for friends buggys and the only one we had fail was because the block was to small. Put a 2" block in there and its still being used.

Be careful clocking a 241 to far its not a splash driven case, the case needs a the pick up for the pump inside. Its not like a gear driven case like a 300 or 205, you can clock them at any angle.

Jason.
__________________
1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
jason m is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-08-2012, 11:34 AM   #8
ltrail
Registered User
1984 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: mesa, AZ
Posts: 1,451
I am planning on links being close to the 35-40" length(IIRC my rears are 38"). I got one of the 341dhd flanges that i ordered and it sticks out away from case output farther than i had thought. I can clock it up enough to have decent oiling and probably run a touch more fluid for off camber situations if necessary.. I think ive got it mostly figured out. Im lookung to be completely flat underneath with 23-25" belly height. No bolts hanging or any of the like snags to be shown. Getting the UHMW?(reinforced plastic junk) for the bottom and boat sides, will all be countersunk for clean smooth bottom.Last resort will be the 2 piece.

Hoping santa got my letter so i get some 38-13.5.15 creepys! I want this pile wheeling by the first of the year. Its been down since feb, which isnt bad i guess considering engine swap and stretch and all, but the stockish yj on 31's os only so much fun.

Jason what you running for 2 piece shaft on these? I have seen 231 outputs cut and welded yokes on and all sorts of things similar. SINCe i swapped the rear output for the 241D i have the factory shaft and can cut the back off the old 241c shaft and drop a pair of yokes on it.
__________________
84 xj 350tbi, sm465, 203/205, 60/70. links and other junk.
what size sawzall blades does it take to fit 40's?
ltrail is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-08-2012, 11:49 AM   #9
jason m
Web Wheeler
 
jason m's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Holland mass USA
Posts: 2,761
My jeep doe's not run a two piece, I was able to pull off a single drive shaft. The 78 Ford front the yoke hits the oil pan and down pipe but Ive been making a 2"driveshaft work for years in that jeep. Its long a shaft as I have a 700r and the same 241 as your going to run.

No I dont have a flat belly, I have a small hump and I have a front a loop that go's up over the front shaft to support that side of the skid. But I also punched a ton of holes threw the floor ( what floor I had left ) and tied the top of the skid into my seat cage, when I bottom out I feel it.

For two Piece shafts I run a 2" pillow block 2 bolt or 4, the 4 will spead the load out better but the 2 will live a long happy life getting beat on to.

Heres what ive used to build with in the past http://www.google.com/imgres?q=2+pil...9,r:4,s:0,i:92

There big but don't break and you can even find them on large sanders, I get them from time to time when I scrap a sander, well I get 4 as they drive the chain inside the sander.

Yes there used and on something I'm junking so I guess its a bad thing not pointing that at you just at some of the others that might look at what I say and say well why does he allways run junk, its free dummeys.

Jason.
__________________
1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
jason m is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-08-2012, 12:01 PM   #10
ltrail
Registered User
1984 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: mesa, AZ
Posts: 1,451
Im hoping single shaft. I buy junk all day! function vs fashion. If its ugly and gets me there, drive it all day(my yj lol). I too am all in for the free junk, its free. If and when it fails its time for new(or another used one).

Your yj with rear steer is junk BTW, and a buggy on mostly used parts? HAHA Seriously????? Ship them out here and you will never have to bother yourself with all those used parts and weld-on shanks again.


Thanks man. If its free ill run it! If its cheap its gonna get consideration.
__________________
84 xj 350tbi, sm465, 203/205, 60/70. links and other junk.
what size sawzall blades does it take to fit 40's?
ltrail is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-08-2012, 12:25 PM   #11
jason m
Web Wheeler
 
jason m's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Holland mass USA
Posts: 2,761
Quote:
Originally Posted by ltrail View Post
Im hoping single shaft. I buy junk all day! function vs fashion. If its ugly and gets me there, drive it all day(my yj lol). I too am all in for the free junk, its free. If and when it fails its time for new(or another used one).

Your yj with rear steer is junk BTW, and a buggy on mostly used parts? HAHA Seriously????? Ship them out here and you will never have to bother yourself with all those used parts and weld-on shanks again.


Thanks man. If its free ill run it! If its cheap its gonna get consideration.
Send me a shipping lable and its yours

There was a time when parts were made and used parts were used in builds, I want to bring that idea back to builds.
Yes most don't really have the time to build each link tab and it is cheaper in the end to just pick the phone and order them pre-build and pre-bent.
But thats not me, so when I have the chance I will allways build over buy, is it for eveyr body no but its what I enjoy doing.

Keep that do it your self idea and the end product looks and feels much better, to you at least and thats what really counts.

Jason.
__________________
1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
jason m is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-08-2012, 01:46 PM   #12
ltrail
Registered User
1984 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: mesa, AZ
Posts: 1,451
Im with you there. Build if i can, buy if i have to. Dont tempt me with that shipping label!


I may be in for the two piece.
__________________
84 xj 350tbi, sm465, 203/205, 60/70. links and other junk.
what size sawzall blades does it take to fit 40's?
ltrail is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 06-02-2013, 11:16 PM   #13
ltrail
Registered User
1984 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: mesa, AZ
Posts: 1,451
I am getting back on this idea for the fact that I did design something that worked and then change my drive train again so I am back at the drawing board.

Is there such a thing as too much triangulation in lower links(for my front 3 link)? Trying to run long links, a doubler, and keep near flat belly still. If triangular links aren't a big deal will fairly straight links have funny lateral characteristics?
__________________
84 xj 350tbi, sm465, 203/205, 60/70. links and other junk.
what size sawzall blades does it take to fit 40's?
ltrail is offline   Reply With Quote




Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation. JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.