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-   -   flat belly, long arm 3 link, cross member design (http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f369/flat-belly-long-arm-3-link-cross-member-design-1434313/)

ltrail 11-03-2012 12:29 PM

flat belly, long arm 3 link, cross member design
 
Getting to that point in the heeps life where the engine is almost ready to go in and I am figuring how to do the cross member. All my links are coming off the cross member and I want to know if anyone has good pics of how you got your driveshaft through it. I've seen people cut that section and build up and over the shaft but I think it's gross. Any other ideas? I will likely clock it up some but may not, time will tell for the clocking idea. My drive train will sit above frame rail so I can keep it all out of harms way. Already missing the floor so no clearance issues with sheet metal.

Fire away gentlemen!

biggoofy 11-04-2012 06:38 PM

Carrier bearing

ltrail 11-05-2012 08:39 AM

I'm trying to avoid 2 piece shaft if at all possible. More joints I have the more potential for breakage. Thinking I'll clock the case up as far as I can(with no floor this should be easy) without interfaces with where my seat needs to be. And possibly notch the x member with half piece of a large diameter tube. One of my main concerns is when clocking it up my driveshaft angle could be steeper than I want at the axle, or that it hits x member at droop on driver side.

biggoofy 11-05-2012 10:11 AM

Yea I can understand that

ltrail 11-06-2012 09:35 AM

Thinking I've figured it out. I'm going to keep cross member back as far as I can. And possibly notch for clearance if needed.

Imped 11-08-2012 08:11 AM

Just don't move it too far back, otherwise the links will be too steep. Xmember mounted lowers are great for clearance (assuming nothing below rails) but tend to compromise geometry unless the arms are as long as possible. You'll definitely want to make sure the lower axle link mounts are as high as you can get them. This, among a few other reasons, is why I prefer high-clearance frame-mounted lower link mounts.

jason m 11-08-2012 08:55 AM

Don't rule out a two piece front drive, built with the right pillow blocks they are very strong. Ive built several for friends buggys and the only one we had fail was because the block was to small. Put a 2" block in there and its still being used.

Be careful clocking a 241 to far its not a splash driven case, the case needs a the pick up for the pump inside. Its not like a gear driven case like a 300 or 205, you can clock them at any angle.

Jason.

ltrail 11-08-2012 11:34 AM

I am planning on links being close to the 35-40" length(IIRC my rears are 38"). I got one of the 341dhd flanges that i ordered and it sticks out away from case output farther than i had thought. I can clock it up enough to have decent oiling and probably run a touch more fluid for off camber situations if necessary.. I think ive got it mostly figured out. Im lookung to be completely flat underneath with 23-25" belly height. No bolts hanging or any of the like snags to be shown. Getting the UHMW?(reinforced plastic junk) for the bottom and boat sides, will all be countersunk for clean smooth bottom.Last resort will be the 2 piece.

Hoping santa got my letter so i get some 38-13.5.15 creepys! I want this pile wheeling by the first of the year. Its been down since feb, which isnt bad i guess considering engine swap and stretch and all, but the stockish yj on 31's os only so much fun.

Jason what you running for 2 piece shaft on these? I have seen 231 outputs cut and welded yokes on and all sorts of things similar. SINCe i swapped the rear output for the 241D i have the factory shaft and can cut the back off the old 241c shaft and drop a pair of yokes on it.

jason m 11-08-2012 11:49 AM

My jeep doe's not run a two piece, I was able to pull off a single drive shaft. The 78 Ford front the yoke hits the oil pan and down pipe but Ive been making a 2"driveshaft work for years in that jeep. Its long a shaft as I have a 700r and the same 241 as your going to run.

No I dont have a flat belly, I have a small hump and I have a front a loop that go's up over the front shaft to support that side of the skid. But I also punched a ton of holes threw the floor ( what floor I had left ) and tied the top of the skid into my seat cage, when I bottom out I feel it.

For two Piece shafts I run a 2" pillow block 2 bolt or 4, the 4 will spead the load out better but the 2 will live a long happy life getting beat on to.

Heres what ive used to build with in the past http://www.google.com/imgres?q=2+pil...9,r:4,s:0,i:92

There big but don't break and you can even find them on large sanders, I get them from time to time when I scrap a sander, well I get 4 as they drive the chain inside the sander.

Yes there used and on something I'm junking so I guess its a bad thing:rolleyes::D not pointing that at you just at some of the others that might look at what I say and say well why does he allways run junk, its free dummeys.

Jason.

ltrail 11-08-2012 12:01 PM

Im hoping single shaft. I buy junk all day! function vs fashion. If its ugly and gets me there, drive it all day(my yj lol). I too am all in for the free junk, its free. If and when it fails its time for new(or another used one).

Your yj with rear steer is junk BTW, and a buggy on mostly used parts? HAHA Seriously????? Ship them out here and you will never have to bother yourself with all those used parts and weld-on shanks again.


Thanks man. If its free ill run it! If its cheap its gonna get consideration.

jason m 11-08-2012 12:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ltrail (Post 14423630)
Im hoping single shaft. I buy junk all day! function vs fashion. If its ugly and gets me there, drive it all day(my yj lol). I too am all in for the free junk, its free. If and when it fails its time for new(or another used one).

Your yj with rear steer is junk BTW, and a buggy on mostly used parts? HAHA Seriously????? Ship them out here and you will never have to bother yourself with all those used parts and weld-on shanks again.


Thanks man. If its free ill run it! If its cheap its gonna get consideration.

Send me a shipping lable and its yours:2thumbsup:

There was a time when parts were made and used parts were used in builds, I want to bring that idea back to builds.
Yes most don't really have the time to build each link tab and it is cheaper in the end to just pick the phone and order them pre-build and pre-bent.
But thats not me, so when I have the chance I will allways build over buy, is it for eveyr body no but its what I enjoy doing.

Keep that do it your self idea and the end product looks and feels much better, to you at least and thats what really counts.

Jason.

ltrail 11-08-2012 01:46 PM

Im with you there. Build if i can, buy if i have to. Dont tempt me with that shipping label!


I may be in for the two piece.

ltrail 06-02-2013 11:16 PM

I am getting back on this idea for the fact that I did design something that worked and then change my drive train again so I am back at the drawing board.

Is there such a thing as too much triangulation in lower links(for my front 3 link)? Trying to run long links, a doubler, and keep near flat belly still. If triangular links aren't a big deal will fairly straight links have funny lateral characteristics?


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