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Unread 11-20-2012, 07:02 AM   #61
j_bydesign
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I just finished swapping our 30/35 for a set of G2 Dana 44s front and back... I already had the CV rear shaft with SYE... aside from cutting a notch in the spring pirches for shock clearance in the rear... they pretty much bolted in... New hard lines for the rear brakes and I hade to shorten the front drive shaft (which was in need of a rebuild tooo) The rear has a detroit and the front ARB... so the only thing I have left is to install the compressor and plumb up the front locker... 4.56 gearing really nice running 35s . I bought the G2s used basically two for the price of one... so in the long run not a stupid expenssive upgrade... G2 makes some really nice kit!

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Unread 11-20-2012, 02:14 PM   #62
Mase90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jason m View Post
Yes a 89 will be a KP axle, they swapped to balljoints in 91.5. The rear will be a steerling 10.25, not my favorate axle but very strong and the after market world is catching up to them.
Is that F-350 a single wheel or DRW truck? The front is the same ( DRW VS SRW ) you just need to swap out to a SRW hub if there DRW one's.

Brakes I run the stock one's on the front 60 and then GM 1/2 tons on the rear, TJ master. Works fine and I can lock up 39's with little effort.
Most diesal trucks will have 3.55's, it could have 4.10's but most trucks will be 3.55's from Ford.

If you want to narrow a them I woul dstart with a GM 14 bolt insteed of a steerling, why you ask? Well you can get a DRW 14 bolt ( or a SRW 14 bolt and swap the hubs ) and it will be 63"s WMS without cutting a tube or shaft. The steerlings used all one hub and shafts.
The steerling use's a 35 1.5" spline shaft ( like dana )very strong, but its cut at a different pressure angle wich makes it harder to have a respline shaft made cause its tooling most axle guys dont have yet.

Wish you were closer I have a narrowed ( 64.5" ) 88 Ford with 4.10's, lock right locker and PSC high steer arms on it for sale,. Thats axle served me well for years, just moved to a 78 front 60 ( wanted fullwidth ) so the 88 gut pulled for the 78 axle.

Your making the right steps in thinking one tons, if the end idea is a big tire jeep this is way to start.

Jason.
Its a SRW, and I believe that the gears were an option that they got on the truck (for towing). But I don't really care what the gears are anyways, since I'm planning on swapping them out later for 4.88's or 5.13's.

Anyways, I did some looking around and it seems that the sterling 10.25 isn't such a bad option. From what I have been reading, it has better clearance than a d60 and is comparable in strength to a d70. A little overkill for now, but I'm sure that will change. I found rear disc conversions for it with a manual parking brake from blackbird for around $550. Which doesn't seem too bad. As far as resplining the axles, do you know if it is possible to change out the gears on the carrier so it would accept a more common pressure angle? I guess my first step should be calling around to a few shops near me to see if they have the ability to cut the correct splines.

I've read through a few builds and it seems like there are a few small like problems carrier bolts coming loose, tubes twisting, and more of a limited selection of gears. But I'm thinking if I can find a shop that can respline the axles that I'm going to give the sterling a shot since I already have it.

Yeah it is too bad you live so far away, I would be on that deal in a heartbeat. You wouldn't be interested in parting out the high steer arms or the flat top knuckles would you? (im guessing you have flat top knuckles)? I think I know a good home for them
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Unread 11-20-2012, 03:50 PM   #63
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Go as low as you can wich for the front will be 5.38, the rear not sure how low a 10.25 can go.

I like the steerling 10.25 axle I think there a very strong axle and are fine in a 1/4 ton jeep sporting 39" plus tires. The reasion I said its not my ideal choice is mostly for this build ( AKA your build ) the 14 bolt can be with factory parts made into a axle thats 63" wms and be found at just about every junkyard.
Infact the DRW 14 bolt is the most commen 14 bolt that I find and most of them are 4.56's, so its not even a bad gear to start with.

As far as the resplining of the 10.25 axle check with Moser, I'm sure they can do it as they can allmost anytype of shaft.

I'm just saying don't over look the 14 bolt for simplistic reasions. Even tho you are getting the 10.25 for free its the end cost that you need to weigh and a DRW 14 bolt can be had for as little as 100.00 dollars and its all ready the WMS your looking for plus its stupid strong.

Jason.
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Unread 11-20-2012, 04:13 PM   #64
biggoofy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mase90 View Post
I was toying with the idea of leaving the axles full width but I like the the clearance I get from the narrowed axles. Do you find yourself with clearance issues often or do you not really notice it?
I'm yet to have an issue with the width I love it!!!
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Unread 11-20-2012, 04:20 PM   #65
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Originally Posted by biggoofy View Post
I'm yet to have an issue with the width I love it!!!
Me eather, 69"s WMS and around 84"s outside tire to outside tire. But with that being said I'm trail only, maybe the Op wants it on the road, very doable with fullwidth axle's, just need the right rim selection and flairs ( maybe ).

Jason.
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1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
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Unread 11-21-2012, 10:23 AM   #66
ratmonkey
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my full width 79 f250 axles require about 4" of flare in the front and 2.5 in the rear for legality here. with h2 wheels and 37 12.5's, needless to say. i was surprised a bit by the good width and body coverage.
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Unread 11-21-2012, 05:06 PM   #67
biggoofy
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I'm 7' wide to the very edge of my tires I do drive mine on the roads a good bit and have 0 issues.
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Unread 11-24-2012, 07:47 PM   #68
Mase90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jason m
Go as low as you can wich for the front will be 5.38, the rear not sure how low a 10.25 can go.

I like the steerling 10.25 axle I think there a very strong axle and are fine in a 1/4 ton jeep sporting 39" plus tires. The reasion I said its not my ideal choice is mostly for this build ( AKA your build ) the 14 bolt can be with factory parts made into a axle thats 63" wms and be found at just about every junkyard.
Infact the DRW 14 bolt is the most commen 14 bolt that I find and most of them are 4.56's, so its not even a bad gear to start with.

As far as the resplining of the 10.25 axle check with Moser, I'm sure they can do it as they can allmost anytype of shaft.

I'm just saying don't over look the 14 bolt for simplistic reasions. Even tho you are getting the 10.25 for free its the end cost that you need to weigh and a DRW 14 bolt can be had for as little as 100.00 dollars and its all ready the WMS your looking for plus its stupid strong.

Jason.
So just to clarify, if I were to take a 14 bolt DRW axle and swap parts from a SRW axle I could get a 63" axle? How would this work? I'm curious because this would be ideal since I could do this myself.
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Unread 11-24-2012, 07:52 PM   #69
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This is my only other car other than my company car. So I was trying to stay as close to stock width as possible.
Do you guys know if the Chevy and for 8 lug patterns are the same? I know its blasphemy to have Chevy and Ford parts together. But since I already have a front axle I want to stay with that bolt pattern.
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Unread 11-24-2012, 07:59 PM   #70
jason m
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Originally Posted by Mase90 View Post
So just to clarify, if I were to take a 14 bolt DRW axle and swap parts from a SRW axle I could get a 63" axle? How would this work? I'm curious because this would be ideal since I could do this myself.
The axle's are the same with a twist. The differnece is the hubs and the 4 bolt brake flange locastion.
The SRW hubs are further offset out buy around 2 inchs, the DRW are offset inward from the SRW hubs. So if you just find a DRW axle it will be 63 inch with any mods to the bubs ( mods I mean swapping to different hubs ).

Now the DRW hubs can be found on the C&C ( cab and chassie trucks ) and found on the true DRW trucks like bread vans witch are to wide for you.

So what you need to look for is the very commen and I mean very commen to find C&C truck and it will have a DRW hub and be at 63"s. Confused yet just get a axle from a one ton duelly truck and not a bread truck or a big box van truck and your set.

The hubs will have a little more stick out over the SRW hubs but no more than the 10.25 would have been. Search google for side buy shots of the hubs and you will see. Nothing changes with the axle other than the hubs and brake mountting location, the shafts are the same for bolth axle's.

Now if you ever decide to run a full width axle just find the SRW and this will bring the axle back up to a 66.5 WMS and be full width again.

The 14 bolt bible at Pirate will have all the answers your looking for, or just post here and we can help, been there and done that.

Jason.
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1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
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Unread 11-24-2012, 08:02 PM   #71
jason m
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mase90 View Post
This is my only other car other than my company car. So I was trying to stay as close to stock width as possible.
Do you guys know if the Chevy and for 8 lug patterns are the same? I know its blasphemy to have Chevy and Ford parts together. But since I already have a front axle I want to stay with that bolt pattern.
Yes the share the same 8 on 6.5 bolt pattern. Older Chevy rims wont fit on a ford axle unless you grind about a 1/8" off the ID of the center hole. But yes any newer rim bought will have the same pattern and swap right on as long as its for the older 8 on 6.5 pattern and not the new metric stuff.

Jason.
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1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
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Unread 12-01-2012, 01:49 PM   #72
Mase90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jason m View Post

The axle's are the same with a twist. The differnece is the hubs and the 4 bolt brake flange locastion.
The SRW hubs are further offset out buy around 2 inchs, the DRW are offset inward from the SRW hubs. So if you just find a DRW axle it will be 63 inch with any mods to the bubs ( mods I mean swapping to different hubs ).

Now the DRW hubs can be found on the C&C ( cab and chassie trucks ) and found on the true DRW trucks like bread vans witch are to wide for you.

So what you need to look for is the very commen and I mean very commen to find C&C truck and it will have a DRW hub and be at 63"s. Confused yet just get a axle from a one ton duelly truck and not a bread truck or a big box van truck and your set.

The hubs will have a little more stick out over the SRW hubs but no more than the 10.25 would have been. Search google for side buy shots of the hubs and you will see. Nothing changes with the axle other than the hubs and brake mountting location, the shafts are the same for bolth axle's.

Now if you ever decide to run a full width axle just find the SRW and this will bring the axle back up to a 66.5 WMS and be full width again.

The 14 bolt bible at Pirate will have all the answers your looking for, or just post here and we can help, been there and done that.

Jason.
Sweet. Thanks for the help. I'm sure somebody's already done it but I'm once I get started on this I'll post a thread with this build. I'm still debating on the rear (mainly because I'm looking around for a DRW 14 bolt) but I should be pulling the front out of the F350 in the next week. I appreciate all the input.
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