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Unread 11-16-2012, 02:45 PM   #46
Mase90
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2002 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepin72 View Post
I am in the middle of a one ton swap right now. I decided on 60's front and rear. I came up with that after being in the same dilema as you are in now. Building for a 37" tire is a bear. Not even the Dyantrac or Currie built 44's are advertised to run larger than a 35" tire.

The JK Rubicon 44 is nothing to right home about, but can be done with work (truss, knuckles, shafts, etc...). There are TJ front 44's out there as well. Also, what spline in your rear? I assume it is a TJ 44. Is it still the 30 spline? Even with chromos you are at the limits of that axle as well. JK rear 44's came 35 spline I believe.

You can step up and go with a Rock Jock or Pro Rock 60 and have awesome clearance with a 37. Dynatrac claims their Pro Rock 60 has better clearance than a 44! Problem is a front Pro Rock is 8 grand (just got an estimate last week). You will retain the bolt pattern you want, they come/are built for you, not a bad choice if you have that kind of money.

Currie has the Fab9. Great housing and great clearance. The problem is their third member is an 8.8" ring gear. You can always get a third member from someone else (true hi nine). Spydertrax is another 9 inch option. Currie also builds non fab 9's, but again price...

Full width Dana 60's can be found all over if you check the right classifieds and forums. Google the Dana 60 Bilbe. It will give you all kinds of info. Ford 9"s are also though highly of. Then there is the 14 bolt. The OEM full widths will give you clearance issues on 37's. So I gave up on 37's.

When I started this endeavor I knew it would not be cheap or easy. I am looking to land on 40's so I knew I had some work ahead of me.
Jeepin thanks,

I keep coming back to the thought that I'm going to go to 60's. But didn't even think of the 9in. I gotta say that the thought of one of the pro rocks or rock jocks is extremely tempting... if it wasn't for the price.
So what vehicle are you using as a donor? And how are you planning on doing your brake setup?
I've got some serious researching to do, cause I want to have this thing ready to at least do some wheeling this spring

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Unread 11-16-2012, 02:52 PM   #47
Mase90
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I just want to tell everyone thanks for all the help. Sorry I have been slow responding Ive been slammed with work and just trying to keep up the last few days. Anyways, I thought that I had a good handle on what I was going to do... but appparently I still have a long ways to go
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Unread 11-16-2012, 06:55 PM   #48
biggoofy
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I would look for a f250 hp44 housing and knuckles then use f150 spindles and outers to make it 5x5.5 the f250 has much thicker axle tubes and has no cast sections. I'm running one setup this way currently with a 9" out back and love it. I personally would leave them full width. The extra width on mine made it so stable. Feel free to pm me with any questions.
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Unread 11-16-2012, 07:25 PM   #49
tdkask
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biggoofy View Post
I would look for a f250 hp44 housing and knuckles then use f150 spindles and outers to make it 5x5.5 the f250 has much thicker axle tubes and has no cast sections. I'm running one setup this way currently with a 9" out back and love it. I personally would leave them full width. The extra width on mine made it so stable. Feel free to pm me with any questions.
That's what I have torn apart in the garage right now, only I had to swap short/long tubes for passenger side drop D300 for my CJ7. Also, though I did get some F150 knuckles-out, I'm considering Chevy/FSJ knuckles/brakes/spindles/stubs for a flat top steering. I'm only goin to run 35's though.
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Unread 11-16-2012, 07:44 PM   #50
cycleguy04
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biggoofy View Post
I would look for a f250 hp44 housing and knuckles then use f150 spindles and outers to make it 5x5.5 the f250 has much thicker axle tubes and has no cast sections. I'm running one setup this way currently with a 9" out back and love it. I personally would leave them full width. The extra width on mine made it so stable. Feel free to pm me with any questions.
Do you have any pictures of the axles or build process?
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Unread 11-16-2012, 08:11 PM   #51
tdkask
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cycleguy04 View Post
Do you have any pictures of the axles or build process?
http://d44tech.com/ Good info to get you to high steer...
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'80 CJ7__258, TF999, D300__'86 CJ WT D44/D30's(3.54s)__GPF custom front/rear bumpers
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Unread 11-17-2012, 07:41 AM   #52
jason m
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tdkask View Post
That's what I have torn apart in the garage right now, only I had to swap short/long tubes for passenger side drop D300 for my CJ7. Also, though I did get some F150 knuckles-out, I'm considering Chevy/FSJ knuckles/brakes/spindles/stubs for a flat top steering. I'm only goin to run 35's though.
Why not just flip your 300 over and save the tube swap, unless you have a texas bolt pattern style the flipped 300 is the easyer choice.

If you dont want to flip the 300 the next best thing is cut and sleeve the tubes leaving the factory press fit in place.
The last and hardest thing you want to do is press the tubes out and swap them, very hard for the average garge builder to pull off.

Jason.
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1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

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Unread 11-17-2012, 10:15 AM   #53
tdkask
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Actually, I had a second housing with problems in the housing, so took the long tribe from it. The. On the housing I'm going to use I cut the long tube to "new" short tube length, and removed the old short tube that will be replace with other long tube. I hope I can heat the housing and freeze the tube and get some progress that way... At least get it started.

All in all, it's been a lot or work and reading, but not too bad.
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'80 CJ7__258, TF999, D300__'86 CJ WT D44/D30's(3.54s)__GPF custom front/rear bumpers
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Unread 11-17-2012, 10:35 AM   #54
jason m
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Been there and tried it, the cut and sleeve is a far better choice, but if you want to try then go for it. Its just very hard without a 50+ ton press.

Jason.
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1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
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Unread 11-17-2012, 11:51 AM   #55
tdkask
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Doesn't matter anymore. It's already cut apart... hahah
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USN Jeep Club Hull #135 (Retired USN 1992-2012)
'80 CJ7__258, TF999, D300__'86 CJ WT D44/D30's(3.54s)__GPF custom front/rear bumpers
4" springs__33x15s on black steelies__Galaxy DX959 CB__Cage (built onto YJ "family" bar)
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Unread 11-17-2012, 04:54 PM   #56
Jeepin72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mase90 View Post
Jeepin thanks,

I keep coming back to the thought that I'm going to go to 60's. But didn't even think of the 9in. I gotta say that the thought of one of the pro rocks or rock jocks is extremely tempting... if it wasn't for the price.
So what vehicle are you using as a donor? And how are you planning on doing your brake setup?
I've got some serious researching to do, cause I want to have this thing ready to at least do some wheeling this spring
I have a full float Dana 60 out of 79 Dodge for the rear. 65 inch wms to wms and 8 lug. It is only a 30 spline. I can shove some chromos in it easily for about 300 bones. Significanly increasing the strength of the shafts.

I can always go back down the road and have the hubs bored for a 35 spline and/or get some tricked out hubs from an aftermarket place like Spydertrax.

I got it locked and with 5.13's for 800 buckaroos. Basically, it was from a friend of a friend. I paid for the gears and locker. It was under a CJ8 so I only have some leaf spring pads to cut off. I have brackets from Ruff Stuff and a truss from Clayton that will be burned on.

Brakes I am going to stick with the drums for now. I think! This changes daily right now They work. After reading up on bias and the hydraulics of the system, I figured it was best to hold off. The rear axle only needs to do about 20% of the braking. So, one must know how much braking the front can do to set that up.

I was looking at several disk brake swap kits, but I came to the conclusion that I need to wait to figure that out until I have a front axle in my hands! Great Lake Off Road offers a whole kit for the rear Dodge Dana 60: caliper, brackets, and all. There are one or two others I've found for the Dodge rear end. There is a lot more out there for the Ford rear's. I decided to wait because I have been reading up on bias and caliper piston bore diameter.

One popular kit includes a Cadillac Eldorado rear caliper with an e-brake. The e-brake will work with the TJ parking brake cables! The problem is the bore size is huge, which will cause problems with the master cylinder, reservoir, and booster causing a soft pedal.

Good Reading here

A mechanical parking brake is a must in my eyes. Way to many shelf roads and mountain tops here in Colorado to rely on the transmission.

The other readily available option is the front calipers off of a mid 70's Chevy 4x4 (based on the rear brackets you can buy to weld on the rear axle). As far as I can tell, there is no e-brake option this way. I don't know the bore size. This set up would require an e-brake off of the TC.

I don't own a front axle yet. The steering axle is the hard part. I don't have a junk yard within an hour of me. I am in the sticks. So I am not yard savvy and don't want to mess with pulling one.

Our local forum, CO4x4, has axles for sale all of the time. Some of the front 60's need a ton of work...knuckles, etc... Gears will be a certain need.

Some are from guys that are just going to something else...I had a guy on the line for a set up 89 Ford high pinion (ball joint) all "cleaned up" for 1400.00 but he dropped of the face of the earth.

I priced out building a housing to the way I want, high steer knuckles, gears, locker, etc... and came to about 5 grand. So I called Dynatrac. The shiznit Pro Rock 60 with steering came in at 8 grand. I am going to call Solid Axle and Gear this week and get an estimate from them.

What I like about Dynatrac is they will build whatever width, and spec you want.

I have buddies that have picked up used front 60's for as little as 1500.00 out here. I am waiting on the front. That is where I am. I own a rear and the brackets for it...
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Unread 11-17-2012, 10:05 PM   #57
biggoofy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cycleguy04 View Post
Do you have any pictures of the axles or build process?
I have a bunch in my build thread on mallcrawlin. Link is in my sig.
__________________
[CENTER]Zack

96 ZJ HP44 / 9"
90 XJ on 33s
RIP Troy aka BigBlueZJ94

FroBot Fab FTW

[URL="http://www.mallcrawlin.com/forum/showthread.php?22776-Biggoofy-s-96-ZJ-build!-**Building-axles**"]My Build[/URL]


Need quality parts call Andy at Ironman4x4fab!!!!!
[url]http://ironman4x4fab.com/index.html[/url]
[/CENTER]
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Unread 11-20-2012, 12:26 AM   #58
Mase90
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Folsom, CA
Posts: 48
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepin72 View Post
I have a full float Dana 60 out of 79 Dodge for the rear. 65 inch wms to wms and 8 lug. It is only a 30 spline. I can shove some chromos in it easily for about 300 bones. Significanly increasing the strength of the shafts.

I can always go back down the road and have the hubs bored for a 35 spline and/or get some tricked out hubs from an aftermarket place like Spydertrax.

I got it locked and with 5.13's for 800 buckaroos. Basically, it was from a friend of a friend. I paid for the gears and locker. It was under a CJ8 so I only have some leaf spring pads to cut off. I have brackets from Ruff Stuff and a truss from Clayton that will be burned on.

Brakes I am going to stick with the drums for now. I think! This changes daily right now They work. After reading up on bias and the hydraulics of the system, I figured it was best to hold off. The rear axle only needs to do about 20% of the braking. So, one must know how much braking the front can do to set that up.

I was looking at several disk brake swap kits, but I came to the conclusion that I need to wait to figure that out until I have a front axle in my hands! Great Lake Off Road offers a whole kit for the rear Dodge Dana 60: caliper, brackets, and all. There are one or two others I've found for the Dodge rear end. There is a lot more out there for the Ford rear's. I decided to wait because I have been reading up on bias and caliper piston bore diameter.

One popular kit includes a Cadillac Eldorado rear caliper with an e-brake. The e-brake will work with the TJ parking brake cables! The problem is the bore size is huge, which will cause problems with the master cylinder, reservoir, and booster causing a soft pedal.

Good Reading here

A mechanical parking brake is a must in my eyes. Way to many shelf roads and mountain tops here in Colorado to rely on the transmission.

The other readily available option is the front calipers off of a mid 70's Chevy 4x4 (based on the rear brackets you can buy to weld on the rear axle). As far as I can tell, there is no e-brake option this way. I don't know the bore size. This set up would require an e-brake off of the TC.

I don't own a front axle yet. The steering axle is the hard part. I don't have a junk yard within an hour of me. I am in the sticks. So I am not yard savvy and don't want to mess with pulling one.

Our local forum, CO4x4, has axles for sale all of the time. Some of the front 60's need a ton of work...knuckles, etc... Gears will be a certain need.

Some are from guys that are just going to something else...I had a guy on the line for a set up 89 Ford high pinion (ball joint) all "cleaned up" for 1400.00 but he dropped of the face of the earth.

I priced out building a housing to the way I want, high steer knuckles, gears, locker, etc... and came to about 5 grand. So I called Dynatrac. The shiznit Pro Rock 60 with steering came in at 8 grand. I am going to call Solid Axle and Gear this week and get an estimate from them.

What I like about Dynatrac is they will build whatever width, and spec you want.

I have buddies that have picked up used front 60's for as little as 1500.00 out here. I am waiting on the front. That is where I am. I own a rear and the brackets for it...
Dang, yeah I keep thinking how nice it would be to just go and get dynatrac or rock jock. I did the same thing the other day and gave them a call just to see what it would come out to. But I think I found a solution to my dilema, my parents have an 89 F350 thats dead in the water So Im going to take a look at it this weekend and make sure that its the right one. I was reading through the dana 60 bible and I think that the front axle should be good. But from what from what I've read I thought that an 89 should have kingpins instead of ball joints?

I'm also thinking that the rear should work as well. I was thinking that if I want to save a little money now and do this in steps that I could just narrow the axles for now. Then I can do the lockers, gearing, and etc. later. The gears are only 4.10s but at least it would be a start. Have you taken a look at the different aftermarket kuckle setups for high steer or crossover?

The brakes are where I have been the most confused: I was talking to a friend the other day that has a shop. He was telling me that the brakes should be pretty straight forward. I'm still looking into it though. Is there any way to transplant the parking break from an F350 that you know of?
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Unread 11-20-2012, 12:30 AM   #59
Mase90
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2002 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Folsom, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biggoofy View Post
I would look for a f250 hp44 housing and knuckles then use f150 spindles and outers to make it 5x5.5 the f250 has much thicker axle tubes and has no cast sections. I'm running one setup this way currently with a 9" out back and love it. I personally would leave them full width. The extra width on mine made it so stable. Feel free to pm me with any questions.
I was toying with the idea of leaving the axles full width but I like the the clearance I get from the narrowed axles. Do you find yourself with clearance issues often or do you not really notice it?
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Unread 11-20-2012, 05:02 AM   #60
jason m
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mase90 View Post


Dang, yeah I keep thinking how nice it would be to just go and get dynatrac or rock jock. I did the same thing the other day and gave them a call just to see what it would come out to. But I think I found a solution to my dilema, my parents have an 89 F350 thats dead in the water So Im going to take a look at it this weekend and make sure that its the right one. I was reading through the dana 60 bible and I think that the front axle should be good. But from what from what I've read I thought that an 89 should have kingpins instead of ball joints?

I'm also thinking that the rear should work as well. I was thinking that if I want to save a little money now and do this in steps that I could just narrow the axles for now. Then I can do the lockers, gearing, and etc. later. The gears are only 4.10s but at least it would be a start. Have you taken a look at the different aftermarket kuckle setups for high steer or crossover?

The brakes are where I have been the most confused: I was talking to a friend the other day that has a shop. He was telling me that the brakes should be pretty straight forward. I'm still looking into it though. Is there any way to transplant the parking break from an F350 that you know of?
Yes a 89 will be a KP axle, they swapped to balljoints in 91.5. The rear will be a steerling 10.25, not my favorate axle but very strong and the after market world is catching up to them.
Is that F-350 a single wheel or DRW truck? The front is the same ( DRW VS SRW ) you just need to swap out to a SRW hub if there DRW one's.

Brakes I run the stock one's on the front 60 and then GM 1/2 tons on the rear, TJ master. Works fine and I can lock up 39's with little effort.
Most diesal trucks will have 3.55's, it could have 4.10's but most trucks will be 3.55's from Ford.

If you want to narrow a them I woul dstart with a GM 14 bolt insteed of a steerling, why you ask? Well you can get a DRW 14 bolt ( or a SRW 14 bolt and swap the hubs ) and it will be 63"s WMS without cutting a tube or shaft. The steerlings used all one hub and shafts.
The steerling use's a 35 1.5" spline shaft ( like dana )very strong, but its cut at a different pressure angle wich makes it harder to have a respline shaft made cause its tooling most axle guys dont have yet.

Wish you were closer I have a narrowed ( 64.5" ) 88 Ford with 4.10's, lock right locker and PSC high steer arms on it for sale,. Thats axle served me well for years, just moved to a 78 front 60 ( wanted fullwidth ) so the 88 gut pulled for the 78 axle.

Your making the right steps in thinking one tons, if the end idea is a big tire jeep this is way to start.

Jason.
__________________
1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
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