Custom Steering Linkage: Weld-In Adapter vs. Threaded Tube - JeepForum.com
Search  
Sign Up   Today's Posts
User: Pass: Remember?
Advertise Here
Jeep Home Jeep Forum Jeep Classifieds Jeep Registry JeepSpace Jeep Reviews Jeep Gallery Jeep Clubs Jeep Groups Jeep Videos Jeep Events Jeep Articles
Go Back JeepForum.com > General Technical Discussions > Advanced Jeep Tech > Custom Steering Linkage: Weld-In Adapter vs. Threaded Tube

1984-2001 Jeep Cherokee Rear Leaf Spring (4 Leaf) Pair1984-2001 Jeep Cherokee Front Upper & Lower Control ArSwag Off Road BIG-HIT TJ-YJ Rear Bumper

Reply
Unread 12-19-2013, 12:37 PM   #1
Mud_Gypsy86
Registered User
1986 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Tucson, Arizona
Posts: 19
Custom Steering Linkage: Weld-In Adapter vs. Threaded Tube

Hello everyone , I hope that all is well. I am currently working on building a high-steer setup for my Jeep. In doing so, I am going to have to make a custom steering linkage (drag link and tie rod) that uses Chevy 7/8"- 18 tpi tie rod ends.

I have found at least two ways of doing this:
Threading the DOM tubes themselves to accept the tie rod end
OR
Welding a threaded tube adapter into each end of the tubes.

As I'm not an expert in fabrication, I would like to get some opinions on which of these options would be the safest, most reliable way to do this.

Also, it may be helpful to know that I am planning to have something like 1.0" ID / 1.50" OD .250" wall Drawn Over Mandrel (DOM) tubing used for the construction of my linkage.

Let me know what you think, or if you have any suggestions.

Mud_Gypsy86 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-19-2013, 02:02 PM   #2
jp360cj
Registered User
1977 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Greenville, North Carolina
Posts: 1,754
Either way is perfectly acceptable & safe. The main reason most people use weld in bungs is that the big taps, especially the left handed one, are big $$. Are you making these yourself or having them made?
__________________
77 CJ-7- AMC 360, Edelbrock cam, MC2100, Fenderwells, CJ T18/D20, Chevy D44/EB 9" rear, Trutrac f/r, 4.11, SOA, 1.25 lift shackles, 35x12.50 BFG KM2s, Shackle Reversal
jp360cj is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-19-2013, 02:24 PM   #3
Mud_Gypsy86
Registered User
1986 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Tucson, Arizona
Posts: 19
I'm most likely going to have them made, but if the weld in bungs are just as good as having the tube threaded I may do it myself and save some $$$.
Mud_Gypsy86 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-20-2013, 07:53 PM   #4
Jeepin72
Registered User
2005 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: "The Kingdom", Colorado
Posts: 1,501
Ruff Stuff sells GM taper inserts. Drill out your current taper with a 7/8" step bit and insert the GM taper. You now have GM taper on what ever arm/knuckle you need it on.
__________________
Jeepin72's Build Thread
Jeepin72 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-21-2013, 07:33 AM   #5
rchase559
Registered User
2003 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: 'Merica
Posts: 2,125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepin72
Ruff Stuff sells GM taper inserts. Drill out your current taper with a 7/8" step bit and insert the GM taper. You now have GM taper on what ever arm/knuckle you need it on.
Who said anything about the tapers? The OP is asking about tapping the tube or welding on threaded inserts. Also I'm pretty sure Ruffstuff only makes them for the TREs and not DLEs (drag link ends).

OP: That size tube will work if you plan on using weld on adapters (if you get one that need a 1" ID tube) however it will not work if you want to tap it. That will require a tube with a thicker wall or a smaller OD. I'm not sure of the exact size off hand but the ID will need to be less than 7/8".
rchase559 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-21-2013, 10:48 AM   #6
JeeperDon
Patience, Grasshopper
 
JeeperDon's Avatar
1993 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Albuquerque, NM
Posts: 6,503
I went with the Ruff Stuff stuff. They show a kit online, but when you call they add whatever you need to get it done. I did the welded adapters since I could weld but don't have the big taps. I went with their heims and just drilled out my D30 knuckle to 3/4". My bill for all the parts for the tie rod was $100 or so.
__________________
'93 YJ, '02 GM 4.3 Vortec V6, SOA, dual ARB's, 8.8+D30(w/WarnHubs), 4.88 gears, 35" BFG KM2's, AX15, 15x7 wheels, NP231+4:1+SYE+2LO, York OBA, Warn M8000, no top or doors Apr-Oct.
Member and Web guy: New Mexico 4 Wheelers My Truck Page on NM4W Site
JeeperDon is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-21-2013, 02:14 PM   #7
Jeepin72
Registered User
2005 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: "The Kingdom", Colorado
Posts: 1,501
Quote:
Originally Posted by rchase559 View Post
Who said anything about the tapers? The OP is asking about tapping the tube or welding on threaded inserts. Also I'm pretty sure Ruffstuff only makes them for the TREs and not DLEs (drag link ends).

OP: That size tube will work if you plan on using weld on adapters (if you get one that need a 1" ID tube) however it will not work if you want to tap it. That will require a tube with a thicker wall or a smaller OD. I'm not sure of the exact size off hand but the ID will need to be less than 7/8".
Sorry misread it. If he is going to Chevy rod ends the taper will have to be addressed at the pitman arm at least and potentially at the knuckle depending on how it the tie rod will be run. FWIW you can get Jeep pitman arms with Chevy taper top down or bottom up from WFO Concepts.

Anyway, Ruff Stuff sells the DOM tube, weld in threaded inserts for the rod ends, and both rod ends for drag link and tie rod. My whole cross over set up came from Ruff Stuff.
__________________
Jeepin72's Build Thread
Jeepin72 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-21-2013, 08:58 PM   #8
underpowered
Bouncin' on a Budget
 
underpowered's Avatar
1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: northern kentucky
Posts: 2,682
weld in bungs are the most common route due to the easy of install. as others have said, getting a LH 7/8 tap will not be cheap, and i would bet many local machine shops would not even have one.
__________________
1998 ZJ 2" bb and 31's. street queen but sees the woods once in a while.

2000 powerjoke tow pig

Anti-jeep--1989 K5 blazer. the new off road ride
underpowered is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-27-2013, 02:47 PM   #9
NashvilleTJ
Registered User
2004 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Nashville, TN, Tennessee
Posts: 208
A word of caution on using the weld-in adapters. Be careful how much heat you throw at it when you weld them in - too much and you will wind up needing the taps anyway. Ask me how I know...

I recently built a set of 2.25" x .375 chromo lower control arms using 1.5" weld in adapters. In my quest to get good penetration from the weld, I distorted the threads just a bit - and then had to buy a couple of these, left and right hand. Hard to tell from the picture, but those are 1.25" x 12 taps at a bit over $100 a piece.

And this is the weld that did it....


Jeff
lower-control-arms-12-5-2013-068.jpg   lower-control-arms-12-5-2013-040.jpg  
NashvilleTJ is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12-27-2013, 04:53 PM   #10
jason m
Moderator
 
jason m's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Holland mass USA
Posts: 2,881
Weld the bungs in with the Hiem joint in or on the threads, add never seize to the threads and while the joint is burning off the never seize keep threading the joint in and out. As it cools it will shrink, but as long as you keep the joint moving and lubed it won't screw up the threads or freeze.

Jason.
__________________
1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
jason m is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 01-11-2014, 01:08 AM   #11
Climbit
Registered User
1999 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: San Diego
Posts: 5,694
Quote:
Originally Posted by jason m View Post
Weld the bungs in with the Hiem joint in or on the threads, add never seize to the threads and while the joint is burning off the never seize keep threading the joint in and out. As it cools it will shrink, but as long as you keep the joint moving and lubed it won't screw up the threads or freeze.

Jason.
I tried that when I built a custom steering setup a while back.


I seized 3 of the 6 heims I was using.

since then I have welded a number of them without the joint threaded in and have not had one get seized or even need a tap.

I put anti-spatter on the threads before I weld to keep any slag from damaging the threads.

and I always let them cool completely before threading anything in and I use an old heim to check, just in case.
Climbit is offline   Reply With Quote




Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation. JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.