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Unread 03-29-2013, 08:32 PM   #1
HunterS
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Copper plated or Galvanized frame?

Hi all, I currently have a jeep that has a few rust problems (okay maybe a lot of rust problems) and I have to either A replace the frame or B find a new jeep. I was quoted about $2,500 to replace the frame (which isn't worth it) but it got me thinking, what if I take a frame for a jeep, strip it of all paint and then copper plate it, repaint it, and then coat it with the traditional salt preventative. I live in Maine where salt is a HUGE issue, both mine and my step dads jeep have frame rot. I know that there is that spray that you can put on your car, but we both had that and our frames rusted from the inside out. But what if you took the frame, set it in a huge etching solution bath (salt water) and electroplated the whole thing with an extremely thin layer of copper then sprayed it. The benefit to this is that when you electroplate something, the metals actually bond together and become one (so the copper couldn't flake off) and you would be able to get every nook and cranny, even inside the frame. I don't think that it would effect the fit of anything because it would be literally less than a thousandth of a millimeter thick. Tell me what you guys think or if you think that I'm off my rocker. This could also be done with zinc which would be cheaper, but it also wouldn't last as long.

Thanks~
Hunter

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Unread 03-29-2013, 08:33 PM   #2
egodfrey
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Interesting, im looking foward to seeing this thread unfold
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Unread 03-29-2013, 11:39 PM   #3
thantos858
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I haven't seen copper plating for a frame but galvanized frames last awhile since its the plating that is destroyed instead of the steel. I also think the copper would be incredibly expensive to do.
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Unread 03-30-2013, 07:21 AM   #4
JeeperDon
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Look for a good used frame. I swapped my frame for a great one in 2007 or so, got it for $500 in CT. [Put your vehicle info in your JF profile.]
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Unread 03-30-2013, 11:38 AM   #5
ratmonkey
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You can buy hot dip galvanized frames for less than that.
Copper would be expensive and corrodes much faster than the zinc plating.
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Unread 04-02-2013, 11:43 AM   #6
Jim1611
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I had my CJ frame hot-dipped galvanized after I sandblasted it. I also painted over it too. A few pages of my thread are devoted to that. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ji.../index145.html
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Unread 04-04-2013, 07:32 PM   #7
bakershop
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim1611
I had my CJ frame hot-dipped galvanized after I sandblasted it. I also painted over it too. A few pages of my thread are devoted to that. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ji.../index145.html
Jim1611, I plan on having mine hot dipped in zinc here shortly, too. Can you give me a run down on considerations for threaded holes and such, did you put a sacrificial bolt to "plug" the hole and remove it later? How did you manage the loose parts such as skid plates and motor mount brackets, did they dip those separate?

I was given a quote for 303 plus tax to get it done, which is ok with me.

I plan on shooting over it with some DuPont Black 2590S DTM (direct to metal) epoxy sealer-primer, then topcoating with Centauri enamel. it is listed for use over galvanized.
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Unread 04-05-2013, 04:43 AM   #8
bakershop
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HunterS, one thing to consider, if you ever have to do spot repairs on a hot dipped zinc system, you can use cold galvanizing spray over the welds. (welding on zinc I suggest using a fresh air delivery system integrated with your welding hood.). With copper, I'm not sure what you would do. You wouldn't want copper and zinc to come in contact or you would have galvanic corrosion (a battery).

The copper idea is intriguing, though.
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Unread 04-05-2013, 03:55 PM   #9
Jim1611
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bakershop View Post
Jim1611, I plan on having mine hot dipped in zinc here shortly, too. Can you give me a run down on considerations for threaded holes and such, did you put a sacrificial bolt to "plug" the hole and remove it later? How did you manage the loose parts such as skid plates and motor mount brackets, did they dip those separate?

I was given a quote for 303 plus tax to get it done, which is ok with me.

I plan on shooting over it with some DuPont Black 2590S DTM (direct to metal) epoxy sealer-primer, then topcoating with Centauri enamel. it is listed for use over galvanized.
Sure. On all of the threaded holes I just ran a tap through them afterwards. You could plug the holes if you want but it's not needed. The only other parts I galvanized was the skid plate and mounting that I made for it/crossmember. Really on the smaller parts if you clean them up good is all that's needed but the cleaner the better.

There's a place north of you at Wentzville, I think. Monnig Industries and their home office is in Glasgow, Missouri. 660-338-2242 and ask for Ryan. I do allot of business with them and it cost me $150.00 for the frame but it was sandblasted so all they had to do was dipp it in the acid bath once, sometimes it takes 2 dipps and that cost more.
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Unread 04-06-2013, 07:57 AM   #10
bakershop
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim1611

Sure. On all of the threaded holes I just ran a tap through them afterwards. You could plug the holes if you want but it's not needed. The only other parts I galvanized was the skid plate and mounting that I made for it/crossmember. Really on the smaller parts if you clean them up good is all that's needed but the cleaner the better.

There's a place north of you at Wentzville, I think. Monnig Industries and their home office is in Glasgow, Missouri. 660-338-2242 and ask for Ryan. I do allot of business with them and it cost me $150.00 for the frame but it was sandblasted so all they had to do was dipp it in the acid bath once, sometimes it takes 2 dipps and that cost more.
Thanks for the tip! I was also concerned about should I leave the crossmember in to help prevent any possible frame warping from the heat or not. But then there are surfaces that wouldn't get protected so what do you do?
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Unread 04-06-2013, 10:54 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bakershop View Post
Thanks for the tip! I was also concerned about should I leave the crossmember in to help prevent any possible frame warping from the heat or not. But then there are surfaces that wouldn't get protected so what do you do?
The frame won't warp. If you get the crossmember done just leave it off. What I do with small parts is to make a note of how many are with my order and they keep them with the bigger stuff, so far they've never lost a thing of mine. Extremely good people to deal with.
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