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Unread 04-25-2013, 06:43 AM   #16
Ripper3494
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The coilover bible on pirate is a good but long read. It completely changed my view on a few aspects

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1994 yj stretched, locked and loaded - 6.0l vortec lq4, 4l60e, np231, Dana 44s 37" interco trxus m/t, 3.5" bds front leafs, double triangulated 4 link rear on xj front coils.
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my on board alternator/welder write up
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/alternator-welder-write-up-1301614/[/url]
my tj 1/2 doors on a yj write up
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/tj-uppers-yj-half-doors-hard-top-installation-1417686/[/url]
RC vs BDS
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/rough-country-vs-bds-1461555/[/url]
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Unread 04-25-2013, 10:58 AM   #17
ArticRubi
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I would also have a look at air shocks. You can get Fox and Kings for pretty cheap, ORI's run a bit more at $600/each. They are infinitely easier to setup and get your desired ride height. Don't be surprised if you end up buying and returning spring sets multiple times before you get it dialed in. The coilover bible on pirate has some great methods to calculate it, but your overall weight and weight distribution is going to change when you stretch it and ditch the leafs for links so even if you do a 4 corner weigh in before the build those numbers will be a bit off when it's over.
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Unread 04-25-2013, 11:19 AM   #18
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Traditional air shocks and ORI's are very different things. I'd recommend ORI's and will probably go with them in the future. I wouldn't recommend normal air shocks.
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Unread 04-25-2013, 12:10 PM   #19
ArticRubi
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This is true, the traditional air shocks seem to all be subject to over heating and getting stiff. Not something you want to deal with if you're on all day runs. Not an issue with ORI's.
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Unread 04-25-2013, 01:41 PM   #20
jeepinhokie
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nice thing about the ORIs is that you dont really need bumpstops or limiting straps, so them being slightly more expensive may actually end up costing you less in the long run. I have also been told that sway bars are not needed with ORIs either; but that was on a tube buggy, so i'm not sure how that translates to TJs.
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Unread 04-25-2013, 01:55 PM   #21
Ripper3494
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepinhokie View Post
nice thing about the ORIs is that you dont really need bumpstops or limiting straps, so them being slightly more expensive may actually end up costing you less in the long run. I have also been told that sway bars are not needed with ORIs either; but that was on a tube buggy, so i'm not sure how that translates to TJs.
Why no bumps or limit straps? Especially if your going fast that seems odd
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build thread:
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/94-yj-6-0-build-spud-1218315/[/url]
1994 yj stretched, locked and loaded - 6.0l vortec lq4, 4l60e, np231, Dana 44s 37" interco trxus m/t, 3.5" bds front leafs, double triangulated 4 link rear on xj front coils.
1997 ZJ limited - BONE stock
2003 tj - 4in skyjacker, 33" mickey thompsons
my on board alternator/welder write up
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/alternator-welder-write-up-1301614/[/url]
my tj 1/2 doors on a yj write up
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/tj-uppers-yj-half-doors-hard-top-installation-1417686/[/url]
RC vs BDS
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/rough-country-vs-bds-1461555/[/url]
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Unread 04-25-2013, 02:08 PM   #22
IEcrawlerTJ01
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ripper3494
It completely changed my view on a few aspects

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What changed my view on a few aspects is the SAVVY KOH EMC Jeep.

4in Currie coils and King shocks with resivoirs
They Worked alot of coilovered rigs through the whoops and rough stuff.

Needles to say. Unless someone can make a jeep on coilovers faster through the rough stuff than they went on coils. I'll be running a copy of the savvy jeeps suspension
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Unread 05-03-2013, 02:56 PM   #23
rusty762
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Not sure if your planning on any go fast terrain but that is one place the ORI's are not great, at least that is what I have read. I do not have any first hand experience maybe someone that does can chime in. There are some great articles on Pirate about the ORI's, I was leaning that direction originally on my build but for a rig that will see a lot of highway miles to get to the trails I was not convinced on their durability. I know a couple of KOH guys that were sponsored by ORI are going to move back to a coil over when their sponsorship is up. Just my .2 cents..
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Unread 05-03-2013, 04:38 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IEcrawlerTJ01 View Post
What changed my view on a few aspects is the SAVVY KOH EMC Jeep.

4in Currie coils and King shocks with resivoirs
They Worked alot of coilovered rigs through the whoops and rough stuff.

Needles to say. Unless someone can make a jeep on coilovers faster through the rough stuff than they went on coils. I'll be running a copy of the savvy jeeps suspension
I had Currie coil springs and Fox Shocks on my last TJ and they were pretty awesome, but I have Fox Remote res coilovers, and air bumps on my rig now, and I like them much better at high speeds over rocks and other large bumps, the small bumps are about the same, but I've never had my coilovers on the street either so I can't compare them there.

I think that coils plus shocks, or coilover shocks should actually perform about the same if they're both tuned equally. The tie breaker goes to the coilovers IMO because they're easier to set up/package when space is limited.
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Unread 05-29-2013, 12:23 AM   #25
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Sorry for the lack of updates. I've been extremely busy with work. I ended up picking up a 14 bolt from a 2003 GMC 2500. It came complete with disc brakes, 4.10 gears, open diff. I also have a friend of a friend who has a Dana 60 for sale. Apparently the Dana 60 is in decent shape, but could use new seals. It also has 30 spline warn locking hubs which are going to need to be upgraded to 35 spline.

Here is the 14 bolt. We'll most likely be shaving it using the ballistic fab shave kit.
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