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Unread 04-24-2013, 01:09 AM   #1
Davetha
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Coilovers and stretch build

Hey guys,
I've been pricing out what I'm going to need in order to put coilovers on my Jeep and extend the wheel base. So far the part list that I have is...


3 link front and 4 link rear ruff stuff $1450
2x 14" coilovers $756
2x 12" coilovers $756
Synergy Suspension TJ/LJ Rear Coilover Bracket Kit $259
Synergy Suspension TJ/LJ Front Coilover Bracket Kit $400
Alien gas tank $849.99
TNT customs HyLine Zyros $295.95
2x one ton hubs $300
2x Reid C's $600
PSC Extreme hydro assist kit $1500
Attach new steering set up (have DOM tubing etc..)

Is there anything that I'm missing? I've looked over a bunch of build threads, and it seems like I've got everything. Also having Ruff stuff around takes care of most of the brackets that I need.

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Unread 04-24-2013, 06:07 AM   #2
1Badboy
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Bump stops, brake lines, driveshaft...
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Unread 04-24-2013, 01:01 PM   #3
Davetha
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On my way to work I remembered that I need longer drive shafts. However I completely forgot about brake lines and bump stops. I'll add those to the list.
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Unread 04-24-2013, 01:12 PM   #4
Davetha
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Ok so the air bump stops are going to be roughly $800 for four of them.

Brake lines lets figure $100

The drive shafts I could have lengthened/balanced. I'll have to see what that is going to cost.
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Unread 04-24-2013, 01:13 PM   #5
Ripper3494
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Are you going to be running any rear armor to clean up the cut on the body from the stretch?

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build thread:
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/94-yj-6-0-build-spud-1218315/[/url]
1994 yj stretched, locked and loaded - 6.0l vortec lq4, 4l60e, np231, Dana 44s 37" interco trxus m/t, 3.5" bds front leafs, double triangulated 4 link rear on xj front coils.
1997 ZJ limited - BONE stock
2003 tj - 4in skyjacker, 33" mickey thompsons
my on board alternator/welder write up
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/alternator-welder-write-up-1301614/[/url]
my tj 1/2 doors on a yj write up
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/tj-uppers-yj-half-doors-hard-top-installation-1417686/[/url]
RC vs BDS
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/rough-country-vs-bds-1461555/[/url]
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Unread 04-24-2013, 01:16 PM   #6
Davetha
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ripper3494 View Post
Are you going to be running any rear armor to clean up the cut on the body from the stretch?

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I'm thinking about running the TNT customs HyLine Zyros. They look pretty clean.


Last edited by Davetha; 04-24-2013 at 01:17 PM.. Reason: Added picture
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Unread 04-24-2013, 01:39 PM   #7
Ripper3494
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davetha View Post
I'm thinking about running the TNT customs HyLine Zyros. They look pretty clean.

Sick...

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build thread:
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/94-yj-6-0-build-spud-1218315/[/url]
1994 yj stretched, locked and loaded - 6.0l vortec lq4, 4l60e, np231, Dana 44s 37" interco trxus m/t, 3.5" bds front leafs, double triangulated 4 link rear on xj front coils.
1997 ZJ limited - BONE stock
2003 tj - 4in skyjacker, 33" mickey thompsons
my on board alternator/welder write up
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/alternator-welder-write-up-1301614/[/url]
my tj 1/2 doors on a yj write up
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/tj-uppers-yj-half-doors-hard-top-installation-1417686/[/url]
RC vs BDS
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/rough-country-vs-bds-1461555/[/url]
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Unread 04-24-2013, 06:39 PM   #8
rckchucker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davetha View Post


3 link front and 4 link rear ruff stuff $1450
2x 14" coilovers $756 Polyperformance has these. $342 each and free shipping...Unless you're calculating springs in that cost as well.
2x 12" coilovers $756
Synergy Suspension TJ/LJ Rear Coilover Bracket Kit $259
Synergy Suspension TJ/LJ Front Coilover Bracket Kit $400
Alien gas tank $849.99 One thing to think about is this is only 10.5 gal fuel capacity. I personally would go with at least the comp model that has 15 gal capacity. Range is a good thing.
TNT customs HyLine Zyros $295.95
2x one ton hubs $300
2x Reid C's $600
PSC Extreme hydro assist kit $1500
Attach new steering set up (have DOM tubing etc..)

Is there anything that I'm missing? I've looked over a bunch of build threads, and it seems like I've got everything. Also having Ruff stuff around takes care of most of the brackets that I need.
What do you mean by 1 ton hubs and Reid C's? If I remember correctly you have a rock jock front end. That will be a ball joint front end. If you are going to put Reid's on that, you will also have to replace your outer knuckles, since Reid's are King Pin. Which will also add calipers and caliper brackets, spindles, locking hubs or drive slugs, etc...

I would also stay away from PSC like the plague. I had nothing but problems with my PSC box. It was out of adjustment when I bought it, and it ate 3 power steering pumps. I called Howe and talked to Jeff. I learned more about steering systems in 20 mins on the phone with him that I did in all my research. His setup has been problem free and it doesn't wine like every PSC system I have ever seen does...Just my $.02 there.

Does that Ruffstuff Kit include a trackbar at all? That will be another thing to consider. You can also be sneaky and get a couple inches of stretch out of the front if you ream a factory pitman arm out to a 1 ton TRE from the top. Let me know if you have anymore questions. I'll be more than happy to help where I can...
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Unread 04-24-2013, 07:05 PM   #9
Davetha
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Yeah so long story short. I ended up buying the Rock jocks from 4 wheel parts. It was the bolt on verity. I didn't realize they actually put D30 C's on the Rock Jock Dana 60s. I ended up keeping the axle thinking it would have been fine, even though I was a little ticked off. After seeing the normal bolt on components start crumbling, I felt like its a necessity to get one ton C's on it.

The reason why I have PSC on the build list, is they are very common and just slapped it into the price sheet. I'm not set on it or anything. I will look into Howe.

The RuffStuff kit that I was looking at does include the trackbar and trackbar brackets. I'm still thinking about the steering with pushing the front up a bit. The idea was to see about moving the steering box up a couple of inches. I think there is room up front to move it a bit without lengthening the frame.

The coilovers included springs as well. I'm also not set on that alien tank. The goal is to have enough room to push the axle back. I don't want to run a fuel cell since I still want to have room in the back seat area.

I really appreciate your opinions on this.
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Unread 04-24-2013, 07:08 PM   #10
Davetha
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Do you know how much the Howe ram assist hit costs? I didn't see it online with a quick google search.
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Unread 04-24-2013, 08:21 PM   #11
rckchucker
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Howe will probably be pretty comparable in price to PSC, but probably a little more expensive. But the nice thing is it works. And as long as you set it up just like they tell you, you will never have any problems with it.

If you are looking into moving your steering box, I know that TnT makes a pretty cool kit to do that. Basically you cut out your front crossmember and put their frame extension and new crossmember in. The new frame part clocks the box flat, effectively allowing you to squeeze 3 to 4" of stretch out of the front end.

The alien tank will allow you to stretch the rear end something like 9 inches. You would have to comp cut your Jeep. Depending on what size tire you run, 7" is about as far as you can go before you need to start cutting away the back of the Jeep. I personally like the look of a Jeep that is not a comp cut much better. I totally understand wanting to keep the back seat. I'm planning on doing the same thing. It is way more fun to have more people with you. And it is nice to have a halfway decent amount of cargo space if needed when you take the seat out.

You can probably count on it being $1500 + to make your axle into a true 1 ton axle. I'm not sure what exactly Currie does with an axle like yours, but you will probably have to get new outer shafts at the minimum, Reid knuckles are $250 each multiplied by 4. that is a grand right there. Then you have to source all the parts outside of the knuckle. I would assume you want to keep with the 5 lug theme? If you have 5 on 4.5 currently you will definitely have to get new wheels. A 5.5 inch bolt circle is the minimum to fit a one ton set up. By moving to a 5 on 5.5 pattern you could easily adapt your rear to match with some Spidertrax spacers or the like though (This would bring your width out closer to the front as well that will most likely gain several inches in width). Anyway, back to the brakes. I'm not exactly sure where you can get them, but I know you can get caliper brackets that will bolt up to a chevy knuckle that will work with 1/2 ton calipers and rotors. Going this route will make it easier to keep it a 5 lug because (I'm pretty sure anyway) a late 80s bronco's rotors can be used in conjunction with an 80's chev half ton caliper set up. I'll see if I can find some time to research that a little better for you. (Finals start Friday and I'm not done til Wednesday).
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Unread 04-24-2013, 10:50 PM   #12
Joe Dillard
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Is your current belly height where you want it, and is the current belly skid, the one you'll be using long-term?

If not, I'd address those components prior to setting things up for the coilover, link lengths, and driveline angles.

Are you planning on running a set of Antirocks?
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Unread 04-24-2013, 11:57 PM   #13
Davetha
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I haven't decided on sway bars. I think I'd definitely put something in the rear.. not sure about the front though. The current ride height is about where I want to keep it, however we were going to fab a transfer case skid plate.

I'm going to add an anti rock sway bar to my price list. Thanks
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Unread 04-25-2013, 02:19 AM   #14
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Something to concider. Try to keep the front axle assembly as wide as possible. With a stock frame and less then full-width axle it can be tricky to get it to work. The 60 outers will take up more space then the 30s. I had to make brackets that came out over the knuckles and still had to notch the frame.
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Unread 04-25-2013, 07:31 AM   #15
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Yeah.....you'll learn pretty quickly that that list isn't even close to accounting for everything you'll need. Parts aside, some of this stuff takes some thought and know-how. Have you read some build threads that detail the small stuff you may not even be considering?

As for sway bars--run them on both ends. All of that work with a handicapped rig due to a simple imbalance is foolish. You'll need to educate yourself on sway bar rates, arm lengths and the relationship with your CO spring rates.
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