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Unread 12-21-2011, 09:31 PM   #1
guarnibl
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cage rattles. how do I get rid of the rattles completely?

Hey guys,

My Jeep (09 JK 2 dr) rattles pretty bad over bumps, etc. We tied the entire cage into the frame of the vehicle, but not really into the bed. We're going to do plate around the bed into the frame/cage, which should help with rattles.

However, I can't help notice the rubber body mounts really like to cause the tub to move. Have any of you guys done aluminum body mounts to get rid of this movement? Any negatives about going this direction?

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Unread 12-21-2011, 09:44 PM   #2
mferrari
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Pictures of your current setup? Do you have bushings between the cage and frame or is everything fixed? If fixed you will get all the vibrations through the cage and body. Simple fix would be to redo the mounts allowing bushings to be installed between the cage and the body.

For instance when we build them for daily driven rigs we you plate the sandwich the tub (one inside, one under the jeep). Then on the frame time in we use a bushing between the tub mount and the frame. This allows for the normal vibrations that are absorbed in the body mounts to be absorbed in the cage bushing as well.
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Unread 12-21-2011, 10:50 PM   #3
guarnibl
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Here's an old picture with everything stripped. We've touched it up a lot since then and I'm running different seats. It's back at my friends where we do the cage work. We're plating the tub and tying the cage to the body. He seems to think this will reduce / eliminate the vibrations but the rubber mounts aren't the best since they will cause tearing over time since they have a tendency to want to allow the tub to move.

We didn't install any bushings between the cage and frame. So you're saying install bushings between the cage and body via re-doing the cab mounts I assume?

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2009 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon (6mt) (in progress)
- 42x14.50 MTR's, Custom Cage, FF D60's F/R w/ ARB's and 5.38's, 4 Link Rear, 3 Link Front, 14" RR King 2.5's, 18" RR Fox 2.5's, Fox Air Bumps
- 108" wheel base
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Unread 12-21-2011, 11:14 PM   #4
guarnibl
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Do you think you could elaborate a bit more or do you have pictures of what you're doing here?
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- 42x14.50 MTR's, Custom Cage, FF D60's F/R w/ ARB's and 5.38's, 4 Link Rear, 3 Link Front, 14" RR King 2.5's, 18" RR Fox 2.5's, Fox Air Bumps
- 108" wheel base
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Unread 12-22-2011, 07:21 AM   #5
biffgnar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guarnibl View Post
However, I can't help notice the rubber body mounts really like to cause the tub to move. Have any of you guys done aluminum body mounts to get rid of this movement? Any negatives about going this direction?
Wouldn't this lead to a lot more vibration transfer to the tub? I do like my aluminum Savvy BL pucks, but they sit on top of the stock rubber mounts to maintain that dampening.
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Unread 12-22-2011, 07:28 AM   #6
Hussler
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The rubber mounts have a couple of functions. One being road isolation and another allowing for frame flex. The frame does flex, the difference being its your body mounts being squished instead of your doors grinding open like on a unibody lol.

Could you take a pic of the tub mounts, both sides? If you dont have nice backer plates welded I could see this being a problem
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Unread 12-22-2011, 09:09 AM   #7
guarnibl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biffgnar View Post
Wouldn't this lead to a lot more vibration transfer to the tub? I do like my aluminum Savvy BL pucks, but they sit on top of the stock rubber mounts to maintain that dampening.
I would assume so. He said ride quality would suffer. We're plating first, see if it reduces things (not removing the rubber mounts) and then going from there. The sandwich idea seemed logical.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hussler View Post
The rubber mounts have a couple of functions. One being road isolation and another allowing for frame flex. The frame does flex, the difference being its your body mounts being squished instead of your doors grinding open like on a unibody lol.

Could you take a pic of the tub mounts, both sides? If you dont have nice backer plates welded I could see this being a problem
I will take some pictures when I get a chance. The frame flex makes sense, and yes I can see the rubber mounts helping in those areas. I think the idea of putting an extra rubber mount or isolator between the tub and the cage would be good as well.
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2009 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon (6mt) (in progress)
- 42x14.50 MTR's, Custom Cage, FF D60's F/R w/ ARB's and 5.38's, 4 Link Rear, 3 Link Front, 14" RR King 2.5's, 18" RR Fox 2.5's, Fox Air Bumps
- 108" wheel base
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Unread 12-22-2011, 09:31 AM   #8
mferrari
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Here is what we use for cage plates in order to add a bushing between the tub and tub frame: (don't mind some small ground clamp tab tacked to it)


I was looking around for pictures on my photobucket and didn't find a bushing on the underside so this is from MO2500. We are ours very similar.
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Unread 12-22-2011, 06:51 PM   #9
MO2500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mferrari View Post
I was looking around for pictures on my photobucket and didn't find a bushing on the underside so this is from MO2500. We are ours very similar.
That pic looks familiar


Here are a few more pics of how I did mine. Most important is to place the bushing away from the frame side of the tie-in to avoid creating a hinge point that could allow the cage to push through the tub in a roll.

A-pillar tie-ins




C-pillar tie-ins

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