Axle Welding - Page 3 - JeepForum.com

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post #31 of 35 Old 02-17-2013, 11:15 AM
82JeepCJ7
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Great axle, just hate the very low pinion angle and the increased angle of the rear driveshaft from it.


Beat it to fit, paint it to match!

Wheel, Wrench, Repeat.
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post #32 of 35 Old 02-18-2013, 12:12 AM
rebelbowtie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 82JeepCJ7 View Post
Again, you offer no answers to help prevent this from happening in the future.

The factory plug welds fail due to one side being able to rotate more than the other. This has been attributed to loose U-bolts, rounded off spring perches, etc. When one side is allowed to rotate, the welds are stressed on that side. Once those are broke free, it does not take much to break loose the other side.
A quick fix as he has done, is to rotate the center section back to where it belongs and weld the tubes to the housing.

This will work until a stronger axle is located and swapped in. I would not run the repaired axle any longer than I had to if it was a daily driver. If its a weekend wheeler, then longer is fine. Just be prepared to do a trail fix if the welds fail (carbon tube to cast welds, unless done properly with the correct rod tend to fail on the housing side.)

On the two I have repaired for others, the weld joint was cleaned, then preheated to 250 on the housing side. E309L rod was used for the weld. One of the axles was done almost 5 years ago, the other just over 2 years ago. Both are holding up fine.

May I ask why you would be using a stainless steel filler to weld a cast steel axle? If youre going to stick weld cast the electrode should have NI (nickel) in front of the numbers if you are welding on cast steel or iron. Regular grey cast steel though you can get by with some regular old ER70 6010/7018 but def not stainless filler metal.

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post #33 of 35 Old 02-18-2013, 10:52 AM
82JeepCJ7
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Are you aware that stainless rod is mostly nickel? 309L works very well for joining dissimilar metals (Cast housing, carbon steel axle tube.) It is very ductile and will not crack.

Beat it to fit, paint it to match!

Wheel, Wrench, Repeat.
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post #34 of 35 Old 02-18-2013, 05:11 PM
rebelbowtie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 82JeepCJ7
Are you aware that stainless rod is mostly nickel? 309L works very well for joining dissimilar metals (Cast housing, carbon steel axle tube.) It is very ductile and will not crack.
Not for a root pass it isn't that well. I've done plenty of welding on dissimilar metals. I could list all my experience and certifications but a dick measuring contest never proved anything.

He's an angel dressed in oilskins; he's a saint in the "Sou'wester,"
He's a pluck as they come, or ever can;
He's a hero born and bred, but it hasn't swelled his head,
For he's just the U.S. Government's hired man.
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post #35 of 35 Old 02-18-2013, 06:05 PM
82JeepCJ7
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Were not doing a 6" 600 flange here. Its a POS axle. I was not going to go out and buy a 20# box of rod for 4 rods. I used what I had in my oven. They have yet to break any of them.

I guess I could of flexed the rig out so I could make use of my 6G.....

Beat it to fit, paint it to match!

Wheel, Wrench, Repeat.
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