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Unread 11-22-2012, 11:01 PM   #1
Jevy
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1984 CJ7 
 
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are all 350's the same????

Dumb question of the day here guys. I recently purchased a cj7 with a 350 in it. The engine has either a worn cam lobe or a collapsing lifter. That being said I think I am wanting to go ahead and swap the engine out. Here''s where my questions start:

Are all 350's pretty much the same? I am wanting to buy the one in the link below but want/need to know I'm not going to be buying something that will take lots of extra modifying.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet+Perf...67353/10002/-1

My Jeep has narrow track running gear, dana 20 transfer case, dana 20/30 axles and a th400 transmission. The current 350 has an edelbrock intake and carb but other than that I think it's pretty much stock AFAIK. Jeep does have power steering/brakes/electric radiator fan,no air conditioning.

This would be my first engine install. If it's a remove/re-install I'm thinking about trying to do it myself. That's the main reason asking if there is anything in particular I need to check to verify correct application.

Any info is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

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Unread 11-23-2012, 12:16 PM   #2
ratmonkey
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if you are planning on modifications, buy one already pretty built as a crate motor. unless you find great second hand deals on parts, and do the labor yourself, the crate motor will be money ahead in the long run.
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Unread 11-23-2012, 04:25 PM   #3
WhyJayPA
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Not all 350's are the same. Sounds like you have an early gen 1 SBC. Newer vortec motors have different intake manifolds and the accessory/belt system is arranged differently. Not to mention, theyre fuel injected. You could save a lot of money by just rebuilding the motor you have. A bad lobe isnt that bad and is a lot cheaper than buying a new or used motor

Bottom line: rebuild the motor you have since it sounds like it only needs some moderate work and the PO did a decent intall
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Unread 11-25-2012, 09:51 AM   #4
Jevy
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ok thanks for the info!!!! I'm just not sure if I have the skills to build a motor but I know I definitely don't have the knowledge . In all seriousness I think I'll start researching it to see about that. In order for me to change the cam though don't the heads need to come out? I'm assume you are suggesting for me to just patch up by changing lifters/cam??
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Unread 11-25-2012, 01:16 PM   #5
deadeye
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No the heads would not need to come off. You would need to take the valve covers off and loosen the rocker arms so you could take the push rods and lifters out. to get the cam out you need to remove the water pump and the timing chain.
I run the small camp cam 4x4 cam, which has been good for low end torque off road. Cam and lifters are less than $200. And a days work.
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Unread 11-25-2012, 03:27 PM   #6
WhyJayPA
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^^exactly what he said. I run an Elgin cam kit from Competition Products. Great company and good prices. I think I paid $150 for my cam kit (includes lifters and lube)
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Unread 11-27-2012, 08:33 PM   #7
Jevy
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ok I'm probably getting ready to show just how little I know about engines. But once the cam is put doesn't it have to set to a certain "time" or something to do with degrees? Also when the pushrods are reinstalled then are the valves hydraulic or do with they have to be individually checked for clearance?

You guys about have me talked into swapping out the cam/lifters. I'm guessing that the engine is running a set of stock (not ported) heads. So given that what cam would you guys suggest(lift/duration)? I know that those numbers suggest to the performance of the cam. I just really don't know what they mean. I have always taken I've swapped cams in a Harley before but they are hydraulic valves so you just torque the rocker arms and be done with it.
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Unread 11-28-2012, 04:52 AM   #8
WhyJayPA
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On a flat tappet motor like yours there is a specific way to set up your rocker arms. I used roller tipped rockers in mine (a fairly cheap and easy upgrade if youre already doing the cam and lifters). You will want to tighten the rockers down until there is damn near zero play between the rocker arm an the pushrod. Go around and do this for each valve, then go back and tight each 1/4 turn more. Thats how i was taught to do it. Others may chime in with different opinions.

As far as cams go, it depends on where you want you power, how much power youre going to be making, and a few other factors but basically it works like this:

Lift is just that. Its the amount of lift your valve will get from its seat (how far the valve opens up).

Duration is expressed in 2 ways. First is standard duration which means how long the valve is held open and its measured by many degrees the crank rotates while the valve is open. Second is "duration at .050" lift". This is simply a measurement of how long the valve is held open when lift is greater than .050".

I know this can be confusing but i hope that helps.
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Unread 11-28-2012, 08:44 PM   #9
Jevy
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ok since this jeep is going to be towing my tent trailer what cam would you recommend. Guessing I'm looking for more torque/power while going down the road towing the trailer.

Would this be something I should contact a cam manufacturer about like comp cams or some company like that.
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Unread 11-29-2012, 06:21 AM   #10
hotrod351
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for you it might be worth it to buy a complete running engine form jegs. you get a warranty.
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Unread 12-26-2012, 08:03 AM   #11
hotrod351
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find some one that knows how to do this. you can really mess up cam bearings taking out and putting in a cam, then youll wonder where your oil pressure went.
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Unread 12-26-2012, 06:59 PM   #12
ltrail
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Machine shop or local auto shop usually does cam bearing install for less then $50. I've paid $40 before but more recently i paid 25. The tool to do them is same as labor costs. If you get a newer block like i did you can run all roller cam. My block was 4 bolt truck block yet had the extra castings pre drilled for the roller girdle. All i did was buy roller cam and lifters and swapped in. Get an 86+ style block and it should be roller ready.

I thought about a crate engine but the cost of rebuild on a core was half that of a new engine.
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Unread 12-30-2012, 01:19 PM   #13
70_s15wagoneer
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buying a new cam and lifters would be alot cheaper than buying a new motor if u dont have the knowledge to do it yourself i would say look around for a shop to do it cause u can really mess up a motor if u dont do it right.
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Unread 01-18-2013, 01:28 PM   #14
redman87
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Where are you located I've worked on alot of small block Chevy's and id be willing to help if not to far
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