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Unread 01-07-2013, 04:42 AM   #16
jsawduste
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Because with the RCV shafts you can run these.
http://www.rcvperformance.com/produc...aspx?sku=D4342

With the RCV 30 spline outer

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Unread 01-07-2013, 07:24 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by MGDWJ View Post
in my jk hp 30 i had 4.88 gears 27 spline chromo shafts good joints never broke a shaft or good joint. just shelled a lot of teeth off of the ring gear. this was with open diff. i dont see how i will be stuck with a 19 spline outer. i know i can get a 30 spline outer with the rcv's and a set of drive slugs or warn premium lockouts.
30 or 19 or even 100 ( ok a hunderd is a joke ) its still the same size Dia stub shaft, the spindle cant get bigger to allow a larger sized shaft threw it.
Thats my point, ftgiles and a few others in this thread is the stub will be the breaking point no matter what you run.

Thats what limits the 44, if you can address that some how ( witch i'm sure its been tried ) you could do all you talked about and have a killer axle to handle 38's.

The 60 allows you to run the 1.375" 30 spline stubs or the step up to the 1.5" 35 spline stubs, now you have a even flow of shaft and spline from flnage to flange.
In your case you will have 35 spline inners and 30 outers but the Dia will be greatly reduced in the stub, hence making a weak point.

Its not our money, just were trying to give advise to "not" follow down some of the paths we have taken.
This is why when we see the tire range you want now, we all said "well that where I want it to stop" and then when your tires are to small you think well I want to step up but question the axle.
With a 60 you have a golden ticket to take it to 46's.

Now heres the other question I ask, what about the rear axle. All this talk about the front and rear is overlooked. Dont say your thinking about the rear 60 from the same doner truck, please no.......................

Jason.
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Unread 01-07-2013, 09:57 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MGDWJ View Post
in my jk hp 30 i had 4.88 gears 27 spline chromo shafts good joints never broke a shaft or good joint. just shelled a lot of teeth off of the ring gear. this was with open diff. i dont see how i will be stuck with a 19 spline outer. i know i can get a 30 spline outer with the rcv's and a set of drive slugs or warn premium lockouts.
It's been years since I've looked into the spindle/stub shaft size constraints, but here's what I remember. There are different size spindles between the years and brands of the donor D44s. The differences are in wheel bearing journal sizes, actual spindle length and inside diameter clearances.

There are different combinations of parts depending on the lug configuration and the brakes you want to run. Some of the spindles have a very slightly larger inside diameter. None of them are big enough to run a 1.31 size shaft, even with clearancing. The RCV 30-spline D44 stub diameter is slightly larger than the 1.16 19-spline stock stubs but is NOT 1.31 and requires some clearancing of the spindle inside diameter. Some spindles can tolerate the clearancing needed and some can't.

I'm running the "small bearing" GM D44 spindle, that allows for GM brakes and a Ford 5x5.5 lug hub, and it can not be clearanced enough for the RCV 30-spline stub.
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Unread 01-07-2013, 02:16 PM   #19
MGDWJ
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Thanks for all the input so far. Im kinda thinking of changing directions. I can get a complete dana 50 and a sterling for $200. Still have 9" ring gear and easy to have 35 spline inners and outer.
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Unread 01-07-2013, 08:01 PM   #20
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talking about sinking all this money into a 44. look for a 60 of the same year. already 35 spline inners. buy a set of decent outers and done for much less money than you are thinking of sticking into, what will still be a 44 in the end.
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Unread 01-07-2013, 10:35 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MGDWJ View Post
Thanks for all the input so far. Im kinda thinking of changing directions. I can get a complete dana 50 and a sterling for $200. Still have 9" ring gear and easy to have 35 spline inners and outer.
If you are really only going with a 37" tire I wouldn't put all that added weight of those axles on... I think your first idea of a built hp44 is a much better idea. Weight is a killer!
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Unread 01-08-2013, 12:30 AM   #22
rchase559
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Originally Posted by CZDiesel View Post
If you are really only going with a 37" tire I wouldn't put all that added weight of those axles on... I think your first idea of a built hp44 is a much better idea. Weight is a killer!
How much more do you think a 60 weighs over a 44?
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Unread 01-08-2013, 07:14 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CZDiesel View Post
If you are really only going with a 37" tire I wouldn't put all that added weight of those axles on... I think your first idea of a built hp44 is a much better idea. Weight is a killer!
Its under sprung weight so it will only help and for 200 dollars a dana 50front and a steerling rear is a great price.
Plus now he has a 1480 U-joints, can upgrade to 35 spline stubs and has a matched set of 8 lug axles.

Jason.
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Unread 01-08-2013, 09:47 AM   #24
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The weight doesnt bother me. I have decided that they should go in my wj. It is already top heavy and the added unsprung weight would really help me. I got to see the Sterling yesterday and it already has disk brakes. Didnt look to see the gear datio.
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Unread 01-08-2013, 02:02 PM   #25
CZDiesel
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Originally Posted by jason m View Post
Its under sprung weight so it will only help and for 200 dollars a dana 50front and a steerling rear is a great price.
Plus now he has a 1480 U-joints, can upgrade to 35 spline stubs and has a matched set of 8 lug axles.

Jason.
Two different schools of thought and thats Ok
sprung or unsprung should be kept down as much as possible in my opinion though.... I would rather have unsprung out of the two but neither is best!
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Unread 01-08-2013, 03:08 PM   #26
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Those are pretty large axles to only run 37/38" tires on. Why not run a 35" tire and smaller axles that still give the same ground clearance? For what it's worth I'm running 37's on an HPD30 front and 8.8 rear axle. I know a guy running 37's on Rubicon axles, and another guy running 37's on an HPD30/D44 combo that hasn't had any problems so far.
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Unread 01-08-2013, 03:17 PM   #27
MGDWJ
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95% of my wheeling is in the rocks and have the v-8. I have a hp30 in my jk and 35's and it didnt last a year.
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Unread 01-08-2013, 03:32 PM   #28
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Yeah, I'm sure a V8 would chew up an HPD30 pretty quickly on 37's. For ground clearance purposes I'm sure an HPD44 would hold with 37's and a V8 without the Jana kit, but the hybrid 44/50/60 sounds like the way to go. I agree with Jason that it's as expensive as building an HPD60, but it would give you more clearance and almost the same strength. Are you sure that you'll only ever want to wheel on 37's though? You do know that 40's are the new 35's right? I've seen a guy destroy an HPD44 running 42's and a V8 and he wasn't even on it very hard... all the guts tried to exit right through the diff cover.
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Unread 01-08-2013, 04:05 PM   #29
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As far as my wj goes 37 will be about the biggest it sees. Same goes for my jk. I have my tube buggy that i want to run 42-44's on.
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Unread 01-08-2013, 04:26 PM   #30
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If i could get my hands on a set of stock kingpin inner c's for a good price i think i might try to do a hybrid. I have some kingpin outer stuff laying around. I would need to find some hubs and a spindle.
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