5.3 swap feeler - Page 9 - JeepForum.com

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post #121 of 131 Old 02-25-2013, 08:01 PM
muddigger95
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There is only 1 1/2 inches between my Rad. and center pulley. The Rad. And fan is 7 1/2" thick.


Here, hold my beer and watch this SxxT
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post #122 of 131 Old 02-25-2013, 08:19 PM
muddigger95
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Let me tell you a story about AA. When I ordered my bell housing adapter from AA they didn't say I had to purchase a $650 flywheel and clutch assembly to make there set up work. They said, when I confronted them, that a stock flywheel and clutch didn't work. That it says on there website that when ordering this part that there is a recommendation hat you order this with it. I told them that if I would have known that I would have gone a different route. The guy that I talked to said that if I didnt want to spend that kind of money I shouldnt have started the swap in the first place and he didnt know of a cheap swap. They said that they would take the stuff back but I had to pay the shipping and restocking fee. That really pissed me off. But after all that it turned out to be a clean install and I am really happy with the way it turned out, everything but the price that is. Anyway the short of it is, those guys are there to sell there product.

Here, hold my beer and watch this SxxT
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post #123 of 131 Old 02-25-2013, 08:26 PM Thread Starter
Randonexplosion
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Wow thats pretty ****ty. But when you are dealing with something as exclusive as an engine swap and AA is the only one mf. Of the one I want, I guess they dont have to have good customer service. It means everything to me though (as a business owner) and if they are dicks to me tomorrow then ill talk as much **** as I can haha


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post #124 of 131 Old 02-25-2013, 09:04 PM
muddigger95
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I dont mean to bash on them but I found they are a little short on customer service.

Here, hold my beer and watch this SxxT
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post #125 of 131 Old 02-25-2013, 10:47 PM
mattamd_xp
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A JB conversions input shaft and a clocking ring on the Jeep t-case would allow you to bolt up the trans and t-case without any kind of adapter. The only problem with that is you then have no VSS for the GM computer. The hole pattern on the stock trans tail housing adapter is the same as the Jeep, just rotated 90*. 5 out of the 6 holes are symmetrical, one is offset. I almost went this route, but without having a VSS the cost associated with adding that drove me to buy a NP241c. Cost me $117 for the t-case shipped to my door, $400 and change for a JB conversions SYE for it with the stock Chevy VSS built in. Factory drop was a couple inches below the frame of the TJ, so I put a clocking ring on it to get it just about flush with the bottom of the frame rail. Total cost was about the same as the adapter setup from AA, I didn't have to deal with them, and I ended up with a stronger t-case at the same time.

99 Wrangler Project Detroit Mongrel 5.3/4l60e/Atlas HPD60/14B coilovers etc...
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post #126 of 131 Old 02-25-2013, 10:55 PM Thread Starter
Randonexplosion
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I should have have looked harder for a 241 but with a quote of $300 from my local yard and the cost of a sye, the AA kit was a cheaper route. Im only running 33s for now and will move up to 35s soon so I think the 231 will be strong enough


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post #127 of 131 Old 02-26-2013, 12:18 PM Thread Starter
Randonexplosion
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I started a build thread if you guys want to chime in over there http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/y...-name-1484933/


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post #128 of 131 Old 07-07-2015, 04:40 PM
Japers
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Are you able to get some pics of where you say the starter is laying up against the block? Reason I'm asking, I was looking at the pics you posted and it doesn't seem to be hit where the perimeter frame would impact the engine. Even though there is spring memory, usually the area of initial impact would show more distortion. I've seen some caved in vehicles in my day which is why I'm suggesting a closer look and to not take the starter laying against the block too lightly. Usually, a wheel hit does it.

I don't know if you mentioned whether or not the engine mounts are still intact. Anyway, please check around for other secondary damage. That's damage caused by the hit but indirectly from whips, motions and other components. I don't recall which configuration starter is on there, but they are usually pretty close and some have a torque bracket on it.

There isn't much meat where the starter bolt holes are from what I can remember. So, if the starter is pushed against the block from a collision, something had to give. Cast iron and aluminum won't deform or bend much before a noticeable crack appears.

The side of the block where the starter is are cooling fluid channels. You may not see a leak until the block expands and contracts somewhat. Something I'd look deeply into before I start tapping my wallet.

Seems like a nice project though. Please allow me some time to catch up to all of it so I can let you know if I have any usable input. Also, let me know if I off base here, just trying to help.JP
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post #129 of 131 Old 07-07-2015, 05:01 PM Thread Starter
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That was over 2 years ago man, been running it for 2 years just fine The frame pushed in on the passenger side and into the starter. It cracked the starter housing but once I was able to make some room and get a new starter in there it fired right up.


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post #130 of 131 Old 07-07-2015, 10:07 PM
Japers
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Okay, good to hear. This thread just appeared on my thread, I thought it was new. Sorry I stuck my nose in.
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post #131 of 131 Old 07-07-2015, 10:22 PM Thread Starter
Randonexplosion
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Not a problem man.


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