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Unread 01-26-2013, 05:15 PM   #31
Randonexplosion
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattamd_xp View Post
You can use 95-98/99 old body style 241's as well. check out car-part.com and search for what you are looking for. I got my 97 241 for $117 shipped to my door. If you are keeping the stock dash, the AA kit is a great way to go. I'm running aftermarket gauges for everything, so I opted to get a clocking ring for the 241c to get it up above the frame rail and am running the stock speedo output from it to the GM computer.
Did you have any issues with the GM computer recognizing low range like others have said? Or is that only if you use the jeep dash? $117 is a good deal, and I could afford a new sye for that price. I'm still not sure what to do with the transfer case. I will be keeping the stock gauges (for now) so the AA kit is probably the way to go.

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Unread 01-26-2013, 06:37 PM   #32
Randonexplosion
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Anybody have any ideas to pull the frame back out to free up the starter? It probably only needs to come out an inch
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Unread 01-26-2013, 09:22 PM   #33
mattamd_xp
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Originally Posted by Randonexplosion View Post
Did you have any issues with the GM computer recognizing low range like others have said? Or is that only if you use the jeep dash? $117 is a good deal, and I could afford a new sye for that price. I'm still not sure what to do with the transfer case. I will be keeping the stock gauges (for now) so the AA kit is probably the way to go.
There is a pin on the GM computer than needs to see a ground when you are in 4wd. Hook that up and everything is as factory in the computer. I haven't quite finished up the wiring harness, so it's still theory, but others have done it that way without any issue. I would not go this route if you are keeping the Jeep gauges, because you will loose the Jeep signal to the dash if you run the stock GM VSS on the t-case output.
I would suggest running either the AA adapter from the 4l60e to the 231j ($500) and leaving the stock Jeep speed signal, or using the stock GM adapter and then the front half of a 231c (?? $100) ?? out of an s10 along with the AA VSS only kit. (~$250)
Cost difference isn't really huge, and the AA adapter is a very nice and easy solution that will give you the needed VSS signal to the GM computer and let you use your existing 231j as-is with the Jeep speed signal for the dash. I think it's worth the ~$150 difference to save yourself a few hours of time splitting your t-case open to swap the input shaft, and then drilling out the stock adapter to run the VSS only kit in it.

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Anybody have any ideas to pull the frame back out to free up the starter? It probably only needs to come out an inch
I had the same issue on the truck I pulled my motor from and we just cut the frame behind the starter and removed it.
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Unread 01-27-2013, 11:53 AM   #34
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If I remember right, I found a 4l60e to 233 adaptor. Same bolt pattern as 231c. I used the original vss switch from the donor truck and just bought the reluctor ring from AA! This was back in 2010 when I did this so My brain is a little cloudy. My main computer took a crap, with all My pictures of the swap on it. If I get it going, I will put up some pic,s of the adapter with the vss. If I remember, I got all My info for the vss over on the 5.3 thread at pirate.
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Unread 01-27-2013, 02:07 PM   #35
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Thanks for the info guys. Sounds like ill be going the AA/231 route. Though that 4l60e to 231c is interesting. I shouldn't have to cut the frame to pull the engine, I just wanted to run the engine in the truck to make sure everything is ok. Ill be starting on this beast soon.! I'm sure ill have plenty more questions
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Unread 02-01-2013, 05:25 PM   #36
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Well I got her in the garage. It is a tight fit, I'm glad my jeep is a lot shorter. Hopefully I'll be grabbing a 12 pack and a pack of smokes and getting as much off of the truck as I can tonight. I'll try to start a build thread but I think I'll be a little too busy for that. If nobody minds, I'll just post updates and questions on this thread. It was a lot of fun pushing the truck in the mud to get it into the garage!
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Unread 02-02-2013, 02:39 AM   #37
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Got quite a bit torn down on the truck tonight. The piece of crap JF app keeps crashing when I try to upload pics
forumrunner_20130202_013719.jpg   forumrunner_20130202_013741.jpg  
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Unread 02-02-2013, 02:42 AM   #38
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Nevermind I guess it uploaded a pic.

forumrunner_20130202_014144.jpg
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Unread 02-02-2013, 10:21 AM   #39
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Lookin' good!
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Unread 02-03-2013, 08:54 AM   #40
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I did a lot of reading on a 5.3 conversion I'm helping a friend with on a CJ7 build... with your new exhaust and unrestricted intake you'll have 300HP. Look at the forum on lt1swap.com , specifically http://lt1swap.com/99-02_vortec_pcm.htm for pinout. You can easily thin down the excess on the wiring harness. Also, you'll need to have the PCM reprogrammed to not be locked to that VIN, as it depends on something from the column or something or will not run. You also need to read about fuel pumps, etc, to have right pressures and return lines. Also, if you go standard trans there is info on a SM465 bolting to engine easily and then you can adapt to D300 using AA parts.
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Unread 02-03-2013, 11:07 PM   #41
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Thanks guys! Im getting a lot of attention on parting the truck out but people either flake out or try to low ball me on parts. Anybody have ballpark figures on some parts? Whatever wasnt damaged is in great shape. Doors, fender, bed, tailgate? I dont want ti be outrageous but I need to make my $1600 back
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Unread 02-03-2013, 11:19 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by Randonexplosion View Post
Thanks guys! Im getting a lot of attention on parting the truck out but people either flake out or try to low ball me on parts. Anybody have ballpark figures on some parts? Whatever wasnt damaged is in great shape. Doors, fender, bed, tailgate? I dont want ti be outrageous but I need to make my $1600 back
Doors are a couple hundred each in good shape around here. Fenders are pretty cheap, $50 or so, bed if it's in nice shape $3-400, possible higher if it's really nice. Tailgate is about $1-200. The small parts that no one can get are where you make your money. Seatbelts, sun visors, seats, steering column, lights, gas tank, t-case, etc. You sell a lot of parts for probably under $50 each, but it adds up fast. That's usually the way I make money when I part something out. You're keeping the most valuable single part.
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Unread 02-03-2013, 11:26 PM   #43
Randonexplosion
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Originally Posted by mattamd_xp View Post
Doors are a couple hundred each in good shape around here. Fenders are pretty cheap, $50 or so, bed if it's in nice shape $3-400, possible higher if it's really nice. Tailgate is about $1-200. The small parts that no one can get are where you make your money. Seatbelts, sun visors, seats, steering column, lights, gas tank, t-case, etc. You sell a lot of parts for probably under $50 each, but it adds up fast. That's usually the way I make money when I part something out. You're keeping the most valuable single part.
Im pretty in line with that. I feel like the fender is worth $150 or so and I had the bed with tailgate at $600. Since the rear driveshaft is aluminum I have that sold for $150! Somebody even wanted my crappy jeep tranny and I dont even have it out yet. Wgat can I do for a fuel pump ? Will the chevy pump fit in my tank ? Will a 4.0 pump fit in my tank and provide enough psi? How much does an aftermarket inline pump run ?
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Unread 02-04-2013, 09:29 AM   #44
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I have seen some people make and adapter to fit the Chevy pump into the Jeep tank. I'm pretty sure the YJ is regulated at the fuel rail just like the 99 5.3. If that is the case, as I believe it is, you should be able to use the stock Jeep fuel pump and hook the fuel pressure/return lines on the motor to the Jeep ones. May want to check with someone who's done that on a YJ to make sure though, I've got a TJ that is very far from stock, so I'm running a fuel cell with an inline pump. You can always get an in-tank Walbro that fits the YJ sending unit in the tank -that would provide enough flow for the 5.3, and the 99-03 Chevy motors are regulated at the motor on the fuel rail, so you have the same pressure/return fuel line setup as on a YJ.
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Unread 02-04-2013, 09:58 AM   #45
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A more specific question, are the 87-90 tanks the same as 91-95? I may go the fuel cell route in the future so an inline pump might be the best way to go.
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