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Unread 09-16-2012, 08:26 AM   #46
jason m
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Do you need to install the axle first? or do you have a alot of other things to do like back half it and maybe get the rear 4 link in? I asked becasue you could allways sit on that 78 axle till a real good deal for a newer style come's along.
I would hate to see you sell it and then not find the axle your looking for and now you let a 78/79 slip threw your fingers. But on the flip side you probally need the money from the sale of that 78 to buy the new one.

Me I'm sitting on all the two 78/79 axle's I have, I know I can get the newer ones much easyer but what happens when they start to dry up like the older Fords.
I guess if you have the room and can afford to wate for a newer axle at a cheap price I would hold off, but if the money to fund the prodject or a newer axle is needed then sell it.

If you have time wate.

Jason.

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Unread 09-16-2012, 11:21 AM   #47
jmonier
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No i have plenty of time before i go about putting the front axle in. It still needs rebuilt and i wanna get the rear in before i start on anything. Im basically just brainstorming and picking your mind.

But back to my original question, do you think i would be better off with the later kingpin with the chunk being more to the drivers side? Especially since im going coilover in the front. Which the whole reason i got the 78 was so it would be easier to not go coilovers.lol
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Unread 09-16-2012, 11:40 AM   #48
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Kind of depends how far forward you put the axle and also what transfercase you use. I run a 78-79 Ford axle with coil overs and like it. But with an Atlas clocked nearly flat I had to hammer the trans tunnel to clear the driveshaft yoke at the transfercase as well as the driveshaft tube. With the later axle moving the driveshaft even further to the left, you might run out of room for it or have to go 2 piece driveshaft which I am not all that crazy about
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Unread 09-16-2012, 11:46 AM   #49
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Well im sticking with the stock transfer case for now. I have the 4:1 kit in it. The front axle i dont plan to move forward at all since im going to keep the same front control arms. I would def like to stay away from a 2pc driveshaft.
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Unread 09-16-2012, 01:04 PM   #50
jason m
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmonier View Post
Well im sticking with the stock transfer case for now. I have the 4:1 kit in it. The front axle i dont plan to move forward at all since im going to keep the same front control arms. I would def like to stay away from a 2pc driveshaft.
With all this benig said I vote go with the newer style axle, less oil pan and drive shaft issue's.
We some time split hairs on forum's about wich is best and what worked for me or that guy.
it really come's down to if it fits your Jeep, yes there all built from the factroy the same but some stuff for whatever reasion can work in one Jeep and doesn't in another.
If anything I would slide the 78 axle under and fart arounf with some mock up's, you may find its the better of the two.

I know for me the newer style axle would work better, but I have the 78/79 in there and it works.
Yes I hit my exhuast and yes it has hits my oil pan and under full stuff the drive shaft since its bent so bad wacks my 700r bell area.
But I didn't/couldn't afford to go with air shocks in the front ( link ends where to much money at the time ) so a 78/79 was a better option on a sprung over ( front ) Jeep.

If you don't have to don't sell it, search around you may find a deal on a newer axle, even if you find a DRW axle SRW hubs from a TTB dana 50 can be swapped on and are very cheap at any local junkyard.

Plus if you now have two steering axle's make one into rearsteer

Jason.
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1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
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Unread 09-16-2012, 01:16 PM   #51
aw12345
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What Jason says, roll the axle under there and spend some time looking and moving things. If need be, make some cheapo links out of fence pipe or whatever so you can move the axle and see what it takes to make it work to your liking. It's a tight affair under the front of a Jeep and what works also depends on how much lift, wheel base and uptravel you want. Then there is that other fun thing to built called steering, full hydro or hydro assist. With hydro assist and high steer the pitman arm tends to get in the way of the tierod, fun stuff
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Unread 09-17-2012, 08:55 AM   #52
jmonier
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Another good point. Steering. What have you guys done that works well? I want hydro assist and ive heard of guys just using 1 histeer mount with tierod on top and a bolt going down through the drag link under the histeer arm
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Unread 09-17-2012, 10:45 AM   #53
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Steering with hydro assist is fun to make especially some form of high steer.
Depending on lift and wheel base stretch it's going to involve some frame cutting, steering box moving, changing of the pitman arm for a flat one.
CJ7 or Astro Van pitman arm works pretty well.
My built thread lost pretty much all it's pics, but you can look here for some ideas http://public.fotki.com/aw12345/big-yeller-jeep-built/

It pretty much follows all the Mickey Mousing I did on my Jeep from start to finish
Had to tweek a few things after I finished it, but it works very well.
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Unread 09-17-2012, 04:03 PM   #54
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Full hydro for me now, but I did run a assist for several years and I found it just as good as full hydro. Like AW said I had to notch the frame to clear that upper drag link arm, I used high steer arms on bolth knuckles not just the one.

I now built my own high steer arms and then tied them in double sheer to the oem knuckles for the full hydro.



When I had the assist I used the factory Jeep T/C pump, I drilled the high pressure port out two steps and found this gave me the flow of fluid I was looking for.
I ran a central surplus 2X8" ram that I de-stroked to 6" cause of the placemment of the hole's I used on the high steer arms.
This still gave me a 35* degree steering raduis ( factory is 37~40* ) and like I siad even at a higher trails speeds it kept up with my power steering box as far as truning speeds.

I used -4 lines and a real big cooler, thats the key right there. Dont waste time with a cooler if its not big or oversized and parked infront of a decent sized fan.
I do not like the tube style coolers as they dont allow enough air flow to cool them at slow trail speeds were your pushing/working the jeep to its limits.

Listen I have my old steering box wich is drilled and tapped for -4 pipe fittings, it worked perfect for years with no issue's. I have a flat pitman arm on it and thats drilled for a 5/8" hole for a bolt. If its something your interested in cover the shipping and maybe a little extra cash and its yours.

Not sure if the box will mount up to the TJ holes but a simple plate drilled and then welded to the frame would work.
Or just drill yours out and tap it, it was for the most part easy and I didn't take the box even out of the Jeep.
I drilled and tapped it were it sat and let the chips fall out with the fluid, then sucked the hole dry with a powerfull magnet.

Oh and I also have the pump, not sure on the mounting brakets but it is drilled like I said two steps over OEM. Worked fine just pulled it for a Chevy P-pump for full hydro.

Jason.
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And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
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Unread 12-01-2012, 10:40 PM   #55
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How much of a hassle is it to weld on the knuckles?
On my buggy I have a balljoint Dana 60 and one side has a welded on hi steer arm and I want to do the same on the other side. Any thing specific, to do this successfully?
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Unread 12-02-2012, 06:07 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aw12345 View Post
How much of a hassle is it to weld on the knuckles?
On my buggy I have a balljoint Dana 60 and one side has a welded on hi steer arm and I want to do the same on the other side. Any thing specific, to do this successfully?
I saw in your build you had a BJ 60 front, looks narrowed also. Anyways they got to be shinney clean, make sure you even get the small pit marks on the knuckles.

While your welding the knuckle the weld seems werd or differnet, but ive never had one fail. I heat them to around 200* or so and then weld it like anything I would on MIG.
Like any knuckle job I do I allways pick up the knuckle hole, this way the percentage of pushing is still done on the factory hole.

Nice build buy the way.

Jason.
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1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
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Unread 12-02-2012, 11:06 AM   #57
aw12345
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jason m View Post
I saw in your build you had a BJ 60 front, looks narrowed also. Anyways they got to be shinney clean, make sure you even get the small pit marks on the knuckles.

While your welding the knuckle the weld seems werd or differnet, but ive never had one fail. I heat them to around 200* or so and then weld it like anything I would on MIG.
Like any knuckle job I do I allways pick up the knuckle hole, this way the percentage of pushing is still done on the factory hole.

Nice build buy the way.

Jason.

Thanks, looks like it will be a very nice project, best thing is I don't have to be in a hurry to get it done. I am with ya that the Steer arm on the knuckle and the one that is being added should be tied together for strength.
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Unread 05-07-2013, 10:03 AM   #58
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A few nice trusses out there for the welding impaired. Artec, TnT, OMF to name a few. Anyone have any experience with any of these for a full coil/shock short arm 4 link setup? Looking to setup one on an 87 d60 narrowed to around 65 wms.
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Unread 05-08-2013, 05:33 PM   #59
jason m
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Originally Posted by br0ken View Post
A few nice trusses out there for the welding impaired. Artec, TnT, OMF to name a few. Anyone have any experience with any of these for a full coil/shock short arm 4 link setup? Looking to setup one on an 87 d60 narrowed to around 65 wms.
You will have to chop the 4.5"s off one side or 2.250 of each side of the the truss.
Most here will run them fullwidth ( axle's ) or just build there own.

Jason.
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1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
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