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Unread 09-06-2012, 08:20 AM   #31
jmonier
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Haha jason, how did i know you were gunna try to schwindle me out of my drive flanges?lol. Good news though. Got the fuel cell in this weekend. One step closer. I think im gunna scratch the front stretch and just do the RK rear stretch and build up my axles. Maybe stretch the front in years to come. Dont want to put too much on my plate at one time.

Should i stick with the dual piston calipers that come with the hp60? I would like to do hummer dbl beads but i might just do weld on beads on some cheap 15" steelies.

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Unread 09-06-2012, 08:23 AM   #32
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Dont mind the mess. I have an old hog mat cut to fit the back of my jeep and figured that would work well as an isolator/bushing for the fuel cell mounts. Turned out pretty well i think and wasnt to hard.

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Unread 09-06-2012, 04:09 PM   #33
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Haha jason, how did i know you were gunna try to schwindle me out of my drive flanges?lol. Good news though. Got the fuel cell in this weekend. One step closer. I think im gunna scratch the front stretch and just do the RK rear stretch and build up my axles. Maybe stretch the front in years to come. Dont want to put too much on my plate at one time.

Should i stick with the dual piston calipers that come with the hp60? I would like to do hummer dbl beads but i might just do weld on beads on some cheap 15" steelies.
Haha, you seen my inbetween words I have a set no worrys, plus they make easy trail spares no real parts to loose. Hell you can even duct tape the drive flange into the hub body if you lost the OEM cap and seal.

I really like my duel piston calipers up front with Chevy 1/2's in the rear. I'm having a brake issue now and I have it narrowed down to a bad caliper, but for 7 or so years that combo was killer, still is.
I could very easly stop with 39's and no upgrades done to the master Cyl.

There was another thread about the H1 where I expressed some of my opinions on them.
I love the design, I hate the fact that there 16.5"s. Thats what it boils down to, there very tuff rims but your very limted to selction of tire.

For me 8+ years ago I went with 16" Iroks in the 39" flavor. I'm outer beadlocked with a kit from one of the major companys, forgot now.

Now If I was you I would skip the 15" and go straight to a 17".
Why you ask well selction and side wall are where its at now. The less side wall the less you pinch and of course 17's are a very popular size in NON DOT tire's like comp tire's or the very popular Red Lable's.
But even a Irok can be had in the 17", 39's or 42's. So If i where starting out with a mojor build, me I would skip the 15" and the 16.5" and head to a 17" rim.

Early 2000 Dodge 2500's and SRW 3500's had a stock 17 rim and are found in most junkyards now. They share the same 8 on 6.5 pattern as our one tons and offer a small 7" wide rim, wich when done with a weld on kit will be around 8.5" wide. IMO is perfect for a Red lable or a 13.5" Irok.
Thats puts more pressure on the inner side wall so the bead wont blow out as easy.

My next purchase ( big purchase ) is Red Lable's hands down they work. The Jeep wont see them, the buggy that I have slated to start in the late fall will get them.
Its 2K worth of tire but they will new and should last at least 3-4 years behind 350HP.
Nothing is better as far as tire's go, but they come at a big expense, well worth it IMO.

Jason.
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1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
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Unread 09-07-2012, 10:24 AM   #34
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Valid point on all of the above. I think thats what i will go with.

Now the 14b disc brakes im putting on, i have seen them both to the backside and right ontop of the rotor.. i have also seen where a guy has taken two and got them together somehow and had 2 calipers per rotor in the rear. He had the extras set up as cutting brakes. Thought that was kinda cool. But why would somebody put them directly ontop of the rotor?

Thanks for all your inut jason. You are really helping me out.
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Unread 09-07-2012, 05:00 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by jmonier View Post
Valid point on all of the above. I think thats what i will go with.

Now the 14b disc brakes im putting on, i have seen them both to the backside and right ontop of the rotor.. i have also seen where a guy has taken two and got them together somehow and had 2 calipers per rotor in the rear. He had the extras set up as cutting brakes. Thought that was kinda cool. But why would somebody put them directly ontop of the rotor?

Thanks for all your inut jason. You are really helping me out.
just where they ended up. there's no real "right" position for the brake calipers provided the mounts are strong enough to withstand the forces applied.
some cars have them in front, some have them behind...all how the engineers wanted to package them really.
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Unread 09-07-2012, 05:03 PM   #36
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Valid point on all of the above. I think thats what i will go with.

Now the 14b disc brakes im putting on, i have seen them both to the backside and right ontop of the rotor.. i have also seen where a guy has taken two and got them together somehow and had 2 calipers per rotor in the rear. He had the extras set up as cutting brakes. Thought that was kinda cool. But why would somebody put them directly ontop of the rotor?

Thanks for all your inut jason. You are really helping me out.
He probally put the rotor on the top in the 12 o'clock posistion to keep them as far away from the rocks as he could.
I would not run the two calipers, just run the one and plumb the cutting brake threw that left and right side with the duel handle's.

Order the ruffstuff caliper brackets, there about the best as far as fit and over all quality.
And no problem on helping you out, you don't have to do anything I tell ya I just like to offer what ive seen and done over the years.

Jason.
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1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
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Unread 09-08-2012, 08:04 AM   #37
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So are you saying to just plumb the cuttin brakes into the brake lines before they go into the caliper? Any links for that kind of setup? I havent put much thought into cutting brakes yet, would you reccomend them with a welded rear end?

I wish you lived by me so i could come pick your brain over a case of budweiser.
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Unread 09-08-2012, 01:40 PM   #38
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So are you saying to just plumb the cuttin brakes into the brake lines before they go into the caliper? Any links for that kind of setup? I havent put much thought into cutting brakes yet, would you reccomend them with a welded rear end?

I wish you lived by me so i could come pick your brain over a case of budweiser.
If you weld the rear then no the cutting brake wont work nearly as good as if you had a detroit. And no you don't need a Air locker for this set-up to work.
I have frineds that run detroits front and rear, each side can be locked buy dis-enging the tourqe on the drive shaft, this will unlock the detroit and then you can apply the brake to what ever side you wish to lock up.

So if your considering an upgraded transfer case that can run front and rear independantly from each other then cutters front and rear would be the best bet.
But for this to happen you really need lockers ( and again not air lockers unless you want them ) front and rear to disconect the power to that side tire being locked up.

For the brake to use the caliper as a duel purpose, its really very simple. Run the pressure lines threw a hand lever to each side wheel. 4 wheels, two cutting brakes, each cutter will have two functions, well really three but one will simply bypass fluid threw it.
The other two functions act like as brake, push the hadle forward that ( lets just say ) locks the front left. Pull that same handle backwards it can be used to lock the right front brake.
Now if you mount two sets of handles now you have all 4 wheels that can lock with a push/pull off those two handle's, make sence. If not maybe I can better explain it another way.

Now to plumb the brake's, come off the master with your two brake line's like you would normally do. But insteed of running those lines down to the brake's, run them threw the cutter brake's.
From that point run one brake line each to each wheel/caliper. Again when you use the "foot" peddle to stop the Jeep the fluid will run threw the nutreul portion of the cutter and act as normall brake's.
But the second you pull a handle fluid will be now pressurised buy the handle and sent to that one side caliper/wheel stopping it.

Thats about the easyest way to get a cutting brakes to work on each wheel. But a few key things are needed, lockers front and rear and a upgraded case ( Atals, Stak or a dana 300 ).

I to also wish you were closer, but I don't mine helping step buy step. Let me clean out my inbox and I will Pm my number so if you want you can call. But I sometimes like to post info here on a open site to others can share or learn, or even correct me if I posted some mis information.

Jason.
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1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
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Unread 09-08-2012, 03:48 PM   #39
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Problem with all the big trusses is that it either gets into the oilpan at full stuff or you get a run in with the lower radiator neck.
It's a major pain to roll a Dana 60 under it, not lift it more than say 4-5" and still have 6" of uptravel in your suspension. Can be done, but takes a whole lot of doing
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Unread 09-09-2012, 01:11 PM   #40
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Jason,
Thanks, that made a whole lotta sense. Thank goodness for people like you. I will do without cutting brakes for now untill i get money for selectables.

As far as the trusses. The 14bolt is going with a tmr customs, they are on sale so why not?lol. But im not dead set on trussing the front yet for that very reason. Id like to keep my lift height around 5.5" now. It wouldnt be hard at all to go to 7" though, and ive been thinking about it. When i stretch the rear i could just put in 2" lift springs and there would be my 7" there. For the front, a local guy got some FOA coilovers for his JK and decided to go a dif route and never mounted them. They are 12" though, and im not sure if that would be enough for me. What do you guys think? Would i be able to get 7" out of that front setup?

If i dont truss the front, i would still be welding the tubes and maybe gusset the pumpkin. Then i could just move my upper control arm to the pass side.

Side note: we started pickin corn this past week. That means getting lots of hours in, which also means i might get parts sooner than i thought.
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Unread 09-09-2012, 01:44 PM   #41
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I like 2x3 3/16" wall for truss's, but anything really can work in the rear. You need something for the front. A large truss like a 2x3 tube wont work in a Jeep unless your stretch the front out alot.

I built this for my Jeep only to cut it off because it was to close to the front crank.





Thats why I say yes you need some type of truss but it has to be low profile enough not to hit that crank. Thats why I suggested a chunk of 3"x1/2" flat bar.
That will conect the two tubes and give you a spot to put a top mount for a 3 link, yet low enough to clear that crank.

Very important to have each side tube shoudlering the load of that top link, even if the link mount is off that long side pass tube. You need to spreed that load over the length of the axle.
A frineds XJ that did not truss the 60 front axle, built a upper 3 link mount off that one long side, ( again no truss ) and on the second run out he twisted the tube in the housing.
The OEM plug welds cant handle the twisting force applied to it from that top mount.

Jason.
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1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
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Unread 09-10-2012, 08:45 AM   #42
jmonier
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Ok, so i will probably make my own front truss out of 3"x.5" im thinkin something similar to tmr's rear truss. Simply and easy, keep it as low as possible. So you think i will be ok to put my top link on the truss over the pumpkin and not have any clearance issues?

What do you think about those 12" foa coilovers? Could those work?
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Unread 09-15-2012, 08:14 AM   #43
jmonier
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So ive been thinking a little more on the rear axle. Jason, you kind of have me leaning towards a detroit now. If i can find one cheap i will probably pick it up. I will eventually do cutting brakes, mainly because it sounds like a fun/cool project. But it wont be till after my axle swap. So either i lincoln it for now and go to detroit when i do cutting brakes. Or find a cheap detroit now and cutters later.
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Unread 09-15-2012, 05:56 PM   #44
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Thats the cool thing about a 14 bolt, you can weld the spiders into a chunk of iron leaving the carrier alone. In the mean time look for a detroit or a another 14 bolt ( cheap ) with a detroit in it.

Or pony up for a CUCV axle now, normally they go for around 600-700 in todays market but cheaper one's can be found.
I was lucky enough to find a detroit in the 14 bolt I ran for years, it was in a pile of axles at a local junkyard.
I paid 50.00 dollars for that axle with locker and ran it hard ( very hard ) for 7+ years with no failure.

So search around 14 bolt with detroits are out there, rare but out there. And run away ( very far away ) if you find one with a Gov-lock, they were the factory GM locker option and they suck period.
Easy to spot, look for a 3 pin hole cross pin, the open and detroits are 4 pin and the Gov-bomb is 3 pin<---yuck.

Jason.
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1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
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Unread 09-16-2012, 09:17 AM   #45
jmonier
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Ok, so i pulled the trigger on the FOA coilovers. Never been used, new seals, dual rate springs, limit straps and spacers for 500. So since im going this route, would i be better off getting a later kingpin to have better clearance with crank/oilpan? I know i could at least get my money back on the '78 i have now
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