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Unread 08-27-2012, 07:33 AM   #16
jmonier
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Good info Jason. I ended up picking up a 78 d60 for $750. Its complete but the brakes need rebuilt.

Now, ive been looking into front stretches a little more. Since i have the RK xfactor kit now and i was planning on getting their rear stretch kit i didnt want to bother with gettin new front control arms. Too much money for this broke hog farmer. Then i had an idea, and it might not work at all but i figured id throw it out to you guys. What if i just moved the front control arm frame side mounts forward 3+ inches instead of getting longer arms? I know it takes more than that to stretch the front, but would this work instead of getting longer front arms?

Im thinking 38s-39s for rubbers, dont wanna go much bigger cuz im not upgrading shafts at all. After the RK rear stretch i think i will be around 102". I think another 2 or 3" in the front would be prime....opinions??

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Unread 08-27-2012, 08:49 AM   #17
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You could move the brakcets forward a few inchs but I still don't think that will give you what you want in the end.

Listen I'm probally the cheapest SOB on this site, thats why I hand make everything on my rig, I refuse to pay for steel tabs and parts that I can make myself.

For front control arms get some 2x2 1/4" wall tube, those will work fine for lowers, uppers just use 1.5" .120 wall. Uppers you can use 3/4" Midwest control Hiems, wich are around 8-10 dollars a joint.
Lower Hiems use the Ruffstuff 7/8 with Misc spacers for a 5/8 bolt, that will plenty strong for your Jeep.

I use even smaller one's for the rear lowers, For well over 8 years now Ive had QA1 3/4" chrome molly joints and have yet to break one. Yes sooner or later I will pop one but my point is you can build this stretch kit for probally under 300.00 dollars.

Weld in bungs I will post a Pic of the one's I use, there actully 3/4" fine thread Bud hub collers that fit tractor trailer axle rims.
They fit perfect insdie most all tube size that we use and can be had for around 2-3 dollars a piece.

Good score on the 78/79 axle, don't worry about stock shafts on 39's, they will last, don't be stupid and attack every rock you see with a point to prove just crawl and when you need burp the trottle.
I have seen the neck down shafts survive alot of abuse and even the stock stubs take a abuse.

Jason.
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1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

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Unread 08-28-2012, 10:41 AM   #18
jmonier
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Hmm thats interesting. Im still not sure if im up for stretching the front. All i want is about 3", ive read some builds that use everything from stock steering box location and astro van pitmans to extended front frame like the tnt front stretch kit. I want to keep it simple and i really dont want to go full hydro, just ram assist. I would also like to keep my coils but i have considered coilovers for eas of instalation

As for making the arms, that would probably be easier but my RK arms are pure beef and i would feel wierd with hollow control arms.

For the rear, I was thinking of the RK rear stretch but at $1100 you might convince me to make my own arms. I was thinking maybe 8" of stretch, whats your input on that?
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Unread 08-28-2012, 12:39 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmonier View Post
Hmm thats interesting. Im still not sure if im up for stretching the front. All i want is about 3", ive read some builds that use everything from stock steering box location and astro van pitmans to extended front frame like the tnt front stretch kit. I want to keep it simple and i really dont want to go full hydro, just ram assist. I would also like to keep my coils but i have considered coilovers for eas of instalation

As for making the arms, that would probably be easier but my RK arms are pure beef and i would feel wierd with hollow control arms.

For the rear, I was thinking of the RK rear stretch but at $1100 you might convince me to make my own arms. I was thinking maybe 8" of stretch, whats your input on that?
Oh I don't think the 2x2 1/4" wall tube will be an issue, thats what clayton builds all his kits off of.
Plus I run 2" 1/4" wall DOM yes I have it sleved with some .120 wall so really the thickness is 3/8" combind, but my buggy is going to get just the 2" 1/4 wall non sleeved.
That will be plenty strong for a lower control arm. Uppers I will use 1.5" .120 wall.

For the front I would not stretch it ( well maybe a little ), but I would move or make the control arms bigger/longer.
This way you get a better amount of flex or room to improve on the suspension ( more travel maybe ) in the future without redoing the arms then.
I said maybe for the front stretch only if the upper truss or pumpking interfetres with the front crank pully or oil pan.

Rear stretch, hmm where will the gas tank be or will it be relocated as a fuel cell? Thats the only thing I can see as to getting in the way, that 14 bolt chunk will probally hit that tank at some point if its left in the OEM spot.

Really wheel base will be what your prefer, for a my Jeep I was kinda was forced to run 108". With 39's that to me is a little big/long to "me" but with rear steer I make up for a longer wheel base.
The buggy will be 103-105" Max, that to me is perfect for a trail rig and cone dogger.

For your rig that will be up to you. What belly height are you thinking about? That will have a role on how long your overall build will be also. I know its alot ot consider, what I would do is search Pirate and see what others have built theres to be like.
Base your finale outcome on there input and where they wanted there Jeeps to look like.

Still plan on being a street/trail rig or trail only on the trailer to the trails?

Jason.
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1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
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Unread 08-28-2012, 12:47 PM   #20
jmonier
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This will be pretty much trail only. I trailor to the places i go anyway. Might take the occasional cruise into town (very small town). I have a fuel cell waiting to go behinde my drivers seat, the back end of my jeep is gutted and only used for recovery equip.

So you say i should move/build up my front arms, but not stretch the front unless i need to? Im a lil confused. Wouldnt i have to stretch it if i built up the front arms? The only way i think i will build new arms is if i stretch the front.

I plan to run 38s or 39s and i think the RK stretch is 10"? Might be wrong on that. But i could get 103" out of just a major rear stretch. Would it be unbalanced then if i dont move the front out a little?
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Unread 08-28-2012, 03:34 PM   #21
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As for the belly height, i have the RK belly plate that came with their lift. Id like to keep that all the same. Its pretty much even with the bottom of the frame
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Unread 08-28-2012, 04:05 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmonier View Post

So you say i should move/build up my front arms, but not stretch the front unless i need to? Im a lil confused. Wouldnt i have to stretch it if i built up the front arms? The only way i think i will build new arms is if i stretch the front.
You could keep your front ( well put the 60 in place of the 30 ) where it is, cut the brackets off the frame and push them back towards the center of the Jeep.
So now you didn't stretch the front but you added a longer links hence will make more travel for the front.

And "if" you had to push the front axle out ( out away from the center of the Jeep or where the axle used to sit ) a little to clear the front crank or oil pan then so be it.

Maybe I am misunderstand what you wanted to do with the front. But I was thinking insteed of using a short arm kit you have just cut off all the useable hardware on those links and make new longer one's with new frame mounts towards the center of the Jeep.
This way you are not stuck with short arms and have the longer one's for better travel.
Again maybe I misread what your question was about the front strecth kit or reusing the short arm kit.

No I think 103" with a 39" tire is very balanced, just try to build your cage with a lower COG, or drop some sheet metal off the body to allways keep the weight off.
Thats the nice thing about one's tons is there heavy, helps keep the Jeep planted better.
But peaple will over build a cage or add alot steel for protection and it undoes the counter balance the one tons offer.

Again sorry for the confusion, I think I got away from what you were asking.

Jason.
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1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
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Unread 08-28-2012, 04:12 PM   #23
jmonier
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Lol i think we did get a lil confused somewhere. Here is a pic of my jeep. It has a 5.5" rock krawler long arm kit on it and a bolt in roll cage which i will build up later.

Im not sure where you got the short arm thing from.

forumrunner_20120828_161057.jpg
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Unread 08-28-2012, 06:43 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmonier View Post
Lol i think we did get a lil confused somewhere. Here is a pic of my jeep. It has a 5.5" rock krawler long arm kit on it and a bolt in roll cage which i will build up later.

Im not sure where you got the short arm thing from.

Attachment 461537
Ya some times my mind wonders

Nice looking Jeep One tons will really make that rig stand out.

Whats your thoughts on Lockers? If its trail ony I really like the spool front and detroit rear.
The spooled rear is easyer and probally stronger in the rear but I like the way the spool works in the front, plus its a 60 it can take it.

Jason.
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1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
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Unread 08-28-2012, 08:12 PM   #25
jmonier
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Well id kinda like it somewhat still streetable. I was thinking "orb of traction" the rear and selectable front. My axle came with drive flanges.

Yams?
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Unread 08-28-2012, 10:08 PM   #26
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Nothing wrong with a big ball of welded steel in the back and air locker up front.
Wish I had the cash for a air locker, I welded bolth into a nugget of iron, barks like hell in the driveway but works killer in the rocks.

Factory 30 spline drive flange's, hard find on a 78/79 Ford must of had the 203 T-case. I carry a set of factory flange's as trail spares, there easyer to pop in and out in a pinch, hell I even duct taped a set in.

Jason.
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1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
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Unread 08-29-2012, 07:42 AM   #27
jmonier
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Haha ya i dont really have the money for an air locker either. Im just doin this build off what i can sell off my jeep. I dont think id go air in the fron tho. I have air front and rear now and its kinda a pain in the ***. Maybe i have just had bad luck but the hoses crack. Air seals go bad, fittings leak. I was thinking ox possibly if i can get enough cash that is. If i can sell my rear arms and springs(had a couple people lookiin at them) then i could either have enough money for the RK stretch or i could build my own and have money left over for axle build ups. if i can get away with moving my frame CA mounts in the front up 2 or 3" i think i might do that. Front stretches are sexy.
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Unread 09-05-2012, 11:09 AM   #28
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Been browsing this thread. Have to ask, if you want it semi streetable why not weld front and selected rear? Front is selectable in the sense that you can unlock a hub. Rear is always under power it seems logical to have selection in rear. Makes sense in my head but if you have alternate motive for this I'm all ears here!

Stretches in general are sexy! Not just front.
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Unread 09-05-2012, 11:15 AM   #29
jmonier
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Well the thing is, my front axle came with drive flanges. I also dont really want external hubs because i dont want to have to get out to lock them in and ive heard of a lot breaking on rocks and whatnot. I can get by on the road with a welded rear end, def not with a front.
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Unread 09-05-2012, 05:35 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ltrail View Post
Been browsing this thread. Have to ask, if you want it semi streetable why not weld front and selected rear? Front is selectable in the sense that you can unlock a hub. Rear is always under power it seems logical to have selection in rear. Makes sense in my head but if you have alternate motive for this I'm all ears here!

Stretches in general are sexy! Not just front.
A spooled rear with a locker out back is actually what I want out of a trail rig, you can pivot the rear to turn and with the spooled front it pulls you into your turn when you can pivot.

But the OP's axle has drive flange's and thats going to be bruttle to drive welded on the street, I have a hard enough time making the 100 yard dash from my driveway to where I wheel with it welded/welded and allways in low range.
Thats at slow speeds, I can only imagine what spooled front would be like on a faster rig for the street.

Now if the OP is looking to trade those flanges for some red dial ( witch are Warns best hubs ) I have a set I would be willing to trade

Jason.
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1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
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