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Unread 08-21-2012, 12:36 PM   #1
jmonier
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1ton tj builds with 88-91 ford kingpins

I have searched a lot but having trouble finding builds with this front axle. Please point me in the direction of some. Brownie points if its setup with stock transfer case.

Im planning a d60/14bt swap/stretch and i dont want to deal with the time or money invested in finding a 78-79 kingpin, ive been searching forever.

Ive seen examples of people grinding down the dif to fit the coil. I kinda like BTFs 3in1 mount they have and think it would work well for my application.

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Unread 08-21-2012, 02:26 PM   #2
ratmonkey
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honestly, the end costs pretty much even out. even if you don't go to coilover or air shocks you'll still only save a couple hundred bucks on the whole build.
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Unread 08-21-2012, 02:52 PM   #3
muckinfudder
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why would it even out? 1000-1500 for 78-79 and 500-800 for later kingpins. it might take more time in making it work, but i don't see how you would be spending an extra 500 just to get the later kingpin to fit opposed to the 78-79.
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Unread 08-21-2012, 04:04 PM   #4
jason m
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check this Pirate link out, alot of good info with Pics.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=692903&highlight=coils+springs+da na+60

Having run bolth axles ( 88 and a fullwidth 78/79 ) in a YJ sprung over I can say that the 78/79 put the chunk more into my oil pan than the newer axle. Plus I like the fact that the newer axle's have NON down shafts make them to me a better choice.
Now I am running a 78/79 axle as we speak, only because I had to pull my 88 to put it into a KOH rig, but that never happend and I all ready had the 78/79 geared and installed.

This is when I noticed that the yoke was close to hitting the exhaust and oil pan. Now it didn't hit the pan but did smash the lower tubes on the exhuast.

IMO the newer axles are a better choice to start with but be carful about how much ( if any ) you cut off the chunk to expose the tube under it, dont go past the first plug weld, Infact stay about a 1/4~3/8" away from it

Jason.
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Unread 08-21-2012, 06:41 PM   #5
jmonier
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Gracias, ill check that out when i get on my laptop at home. As far as not grinding too much off. I was just gunna do enough to get thet BTF 3in1 mount in there and weld the tube all the way around when im done grinding and fitting.
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Unread 08-21-2012, 07:51 PM   #6
ratmonkey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muckinfudder View Post
why would it even out? 1000-1500 for 78-79 and 500-800 for later kingpins. it might take more time in making it work, but i don't see how you would be spending an extra 500 just to get the later kingpin to fit opposed to the 78-79.
you'll need to do more in the way of relocating a lot of things if you intend on staying with coils.
the axle is really only a fraction of the install cost for most set ups, so get the best one available to you and don't try to save money there, it tends to wring out later when you have to do things like frame notching and coil perch and shock mount relocations. of course, that extra work can be avoided by using coilovers. but again, that's where the money comes back into it.

quite frankly, doing a swap like this in a yj is childs play no matter what axle you want to use. its much harder when trying to keep coils and that's where the money comes back into it.
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Unread 08-22-2012, 11:43 AM   #7
jmonier
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So you dont know of any builds for me? Lol.

i shouldnt need to notch the frame for anything on the front...that i know of... it may only be a fraction of the cost, but at $1000 thats a pretty big fraction. Have you seen those 3in1 mounts that btf has? Ive seen a couple builds with those and it seems like it would work well with the short axle tube on the later years.

I have also heard in some instances where the 78-79 pumpkins will hit the oil pan or exhaust like what was already said. Seems like the short axle tube might be beneficial in some cases.

Also... i found a pair of 12" 2.5 coil overs, cant think of the name right now but they were selling them for 500 never used. Medfirm/med with dual rate springs. Would those work for me in the front and give me the flex i can get with my 3 link?
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Unread 08-22-2012, 11:45 AM   #8
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the coilovers are FOA
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Unread 08-22-2012, 01:55 PM   #9
muckinfudder
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sorry the brackets aren't from btf they are from ballistic fab
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Unread 08-22-2012, 02:38 PM   #10
ratmonkey
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most people avoid ballistic like the plague these days.
those link mounts would limit you in your suspension design to a radius arm or equal length four link. not the best by far.

pirate is the place for this kind of question. i think you'll find most of them run the axle way stretched forward with full hydro and chopped up frames though.
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Unread 08-22-2012, 05:06 PM   #11
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Heres a axle I built a few years back for a friends buggy. It is a 88 and the long side was narrowed a few inchs.
The short side is stock and I had zero issues building a lower control arm mount for a 2 5/8" Balistic joint and droping a 2x3 truss on that short side without touching the cast section to expose any tube under it.
And no that lower bracket is not straight, its at a 15* angle.






I did have to weld that lower bracket on the outside to the cast but with my Mig set at 19V and 195 IPMs I did a Vert-up weld and then sprayed a weld on the inside of the tab.
That axle went through hell and back and got pulled to put into another buggy that I'm sure will equal treatment when its done.

Now that axle was set up for air shocks and the Op was talking about coils. I was mostly pointing out how easy it was to weld a LCA bracket on without removing any meat from the housing and having a decent angle to the tabs.

Jason.
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Unread 08-23-2012, 10:16 AM   #12
jmonier
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Ic, thats a nice setup there, but i dont think that truss would work for me at all if i stick with coil springs. If i dont truss it i think i would be fine.

Why did you narrow the long side? And how much did it cost you to get that shaft cut down?
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Unread 08-23-2012, 01:32 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmonier View Post
Ic, thats a nice setup there, but i dont think that truss would work for me at all if i stick with coil springs. If i dont truss it i think i would be fine.

Why did you narrow the long side? And how much did it cost you to get that shaft cut down?
Yes I agree that the truss would not work for you, thats why I said in my last statement the OP was talking about running coils so a 2x3 truss would get in the way.
You still need some type of truss going over the axle and then welded or bolted to the center section some how. So I would suggest some 1/2" or 5/8" 4" bar stock.
This way you can keep it flat on the oem spring pearch or off to the chunk side and weld a coil boil bucket to it or off to the side of it.

Theres just to much leverage on a 3 link front to not have bolth sides taken the grunt of a upper mount on the long side tube.
Like I posted earlyer the reasion to show that axle is to you ( OP ) you don't need to chop down that short tube to get a normall size lower tab for a Hiem or JJ joint to fit or what ever joint your using.

The axle shaft to have it cut and re-splined was around 110.00 dollars a fews years back, done at a local machine shop.
The reasion behind the narrow was the guy wanted a narrow buggy and we took the front down to 64.5" WMS.

Jason.
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1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
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Unread 08-23-2012, 02:41 PM   #14
jmonier
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Ic, well thanks for that info! I knew i could prolly fit a mount for my RK joint ii was just worried about the coil spring mount. I did just find a 78 d60 for $750 that i will prolly buy. For my 3 link tho, the uca is on the short side. I figured for clearance issues with the oil pan i could not truss it and weld the llink mount directly to the pumpkin on top? Would this work?
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Unread 08-23-2012, 04:29 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmonier View Post
Ic, well thanks for that info! I knew i could prolly fit a mount for my RK joint ii was just worried about the coil spring mount. I did just find a 78 d60 for $750 that i will prolly buy. For my 3 link tho, the uca is on the short side. I figured for clearance issues with the oil pan i could not truss it and weld the llink mount directly to the pumpkin on top? Would this work?
Yes welding to the top of the chunk is an option, not a very strong one. It would work but I would not want to trust it, you may have to relocate the 3rd link arm to the pass side.
Look at it this way theres more room probally on the pass side for it and if your planing on some type of hydro assest or full hydro make one mount that does bolth.



See how my 78/79 axle fits under my YJ, now look where I have a box section for the Hydro ram, you could very easyly weld a tab ( even pre-fab it all on the bench then weld the box section to the tube ) to the back side of the box section.
From that point a simple tab welded to the inside of the frame, 3 link done.

Now heres what I was planing on doing with my steering axle in the rear before I got the Fox shocks, I was going to use my old coils.
I drilled the OEM pad ( Chevy housing ) tapped the holes to a 1/2x13, then drilled a 1/4 plate to match.



Truss teid into mount,



Then coild bucket would have been welded to axle tube and the side of the truss.



But like I said I ended up with some air shocks and I kept the truss and mount I made just added another section of tube to conect to the short side tube.


You can see the extension tube added on, I mean really its all part of the truss.
Plus I have all my tubes welded to the center section and the truss is welded to the top chunk, overkill works

Jason.
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1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
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