The cheapo ebay ones aren't hub-centric so they can work on numerous vehicles/manufacturers. Spidertrax are hub-centric, so the weight of the vehicle is supported mostly on the hub itself, and not on the lugs. I'm actually running the cheapo ones, but I'd prefer to have a hub-centric design.
Ahhh...I see!! Thanks Ryan.
My Ride: 1998 GC Limited
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I will admit that even discount told me the warranty exclusion was for the non hub centric spacers, although they have not modded the warranty yet. They used to sell them, untill the things started failing.
Wheel spacers sound like another high maintance item that if you are not up on...trouble.
I have had a wheel fall off at hiway speed...Can we say life altering experience.
What is the physical difference between the e-bay knockoffs and the spidertrax? They both come w/the add'l lugs. They both seem to machined from 6061T6 anodized aluminum. It seems like (and this is only from my readings) that you just need to keep an eye on them to make sure they don't come loose. So as stated before, it's just the matter of checking the lugs.
Again, I have no experience, but just eyeing them, that seems to be the case.
Since I believe that these are machined pieces, tolerances have a lot to do with it. How about precise is the machining? Is the taper the correct taper? How flat does the spaceer seat on the mounting surface of the axle or well does it seat on mounting surface of the wheel? What about lug material itself?
Now, of course I don't know the exact anwser to these question, but Spidertrax has built a rep for themselves that I trust. Were ebay specials haven't IMO.
So, turns out just as I give up on finding wheels, looks like I have found some. Basic black steelies, 15x8 with 4 inch backspacing, in the end will run me $110. So I no longer have to worry about the existencial question of to wheel space, or not to wheel space.
I've had SpiderTrax spacers for 4 years now. I never had any of the lugs come loose. Just make sure you use blue locktite & torque them to 110 & they should never come loose.
Now, this spring I had to change the back spacers to 1.5" to clear the swaybar ends after the TnT lift. The only thing I could get fast was Performance Tire & Wheel spacers from here in town. They are not hub centic which I hate but had no choice. They are in the back though which is better I think than the front.
They did tell me that they were going to be able to make hub centric spacers by the end of the summer but I haven't check if they are doing it.
ZJ 98 5.9 LTD. Lots of mods. 7" T&T's Long Arm Lift ,BFG KM2"s,35X12.50x16's,4:56's, Vanco brake upgrade, M1intake,Holley52mmTB,MikeLeach Headers,, Arb'ed HP D30,Aussie Locked rear,Procomp MX6 Shocks,Arb front,RearTR bumpers,ECT.ECT.
I have had my spidertrax spacers for about 8 months now with wheeling harder than before the install. No problems at all. I have rotated my tires twice and checked all the nuts; they were all perfectly tight.
These are the main things to keep in mind:
1) Use RED loctite
2) Torque to 110 ft lbs
3) Be sure that the spacers fit perfectly flush on the hub
3) Rotate tires every 2-3k and be sure to check the torque on all spacer nuts
4) If a nut moves when checking, you have to pull it off and re-loctite it, since the loctite seal has obviously broken.
I did a bunch of research on spacers and found that it is something that I didn't want to take any chances on, so I went with Spidertrax spacers, which I have NEVER heard a complaint about.
I have heard that jeep axles are not Hub-centric, which would mean that you don't need hub centric spacers. However, I figure why not just get the hub centric spacers and don't worry about the issue? It might cost a few bucks, but I think it is worth not having to worry.
I bought mine used on ebay for $125 for all four. They were in great shape. If you keep your eye out, you can sometimes get pretty good deals!
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