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Unread 02-18-2013, 08:59 AM   #1
4wmm
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New to me WJ, need assistance ID'ing how it was lifted

Is anyone interested in taking a look at my Jeep w/ me and helping me figure out 1) what has been added and maybe 2) what options I have to soften it up a tad?

The lift is a bit stiff in the rear. I am not very familiar w/ WJ lift options despite having read a good bit about them.

I'm a part time CO resident. Currently out for a couple of weeks. I've owned a couple of Jeeps out here. Recently purchased a 03 WJ Overland to use as a commuter/play vehicle while in CO. The plan is to bring my LJ out once built. So for now I'm not planning to do much serious off roading w/ the WJ.

That said, I bought one w/ low-ish miles, a mild lift, Goodyear MTRs (255/75/17), and a GoBezerk bumper w/ a winch. Overall I like it but I think given my use I'm going to go w/ a less aggressive and smaller tire for road noise/power/mileage.

I'm on the West side of Littleton but willing to meet somewhere or come to where you are.

Let me know. Thanks, Will
803-422-6933

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69 CJ-6, Really just a pile of parts
79 Cherokee S "Charlie" that my parents bought new in 81
04 LJ build TBD
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Unread 02-18-2013, 09:06 AM   #2
brianestep
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I'm not real far from you, and I know there's a bunch of guys in Denver that would meet you. In the meantime, you can also post some pictures of what you have. We could probably figure it out from that!
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-Brian- 2000 WJ Four liter, 4" RC springs; Bilstein 5100s; JKS trackbar w/KOR bushings; Stillen rotors; KOR (RC) 1.5" wheel spacers; 265/75/16 Treadwright Guard Dogs; Rusty AirTube, Amsoil Cone; Thule M.O.A.B.; Bumper delete; rear seat disco
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Unread 02-18-2013, 09:16 AM   #3
4wmm
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I'll snap a few pics. Thanks.

Looks like a front spacer, maybe an aftermarket track bar and tie rod. The rear springs just look like stock springs but are obviously taller given the lift and stiffness.

I'm accustomed to TJ/LJ lifts where it's obvious what has been replaced b/c the factory arms and steering stuff is so dinky to begin with.

Thanks. I'll get some pics up in a few.
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Will M
69 CJ-6, Really just a pile of parts
79 Cherokee S "Charlie" that my parents bought new in 81
04 LJ build TBD
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Unread 02-18-2013, 05:01 PM   #4
4wmm
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Ok, so after more extensive rolling around under the Jeep and some internet shopping I learned a little.

The springs are IRO with part # IR-W4RSP-F on the D/S rear and IR-W4FSP-D on the P/S front. Those were the easiest two to see. I haven't called them yet but these numbers don't show up on a search of their site.

Shocks have 92650 stamped in them and OE11485 X152E2 stamped below that. Haven't found anything on those yet either.

There is a t-case drop, looks like the Iron Rock drop. The sway bar links appear to be longer than stock (as well they should be for a lift).

The Trac Bar appears adjustable. In the pic you can see a nut on the end but not much thread. I've just not seen what the stock ones look like.

Both sway bars appear stock. While on the topic, I'm curious if people notice less body roll with an aftermarket sway bar. This Jeep isn't lifted much but it does seem to sway.

The rest of the front steering components appear stock. Particularly the dinky steering dampener. Control arms appear stock.

You'll notice from the pics that the Jeep sits a little higher in the rear - likely because of the bumper/winch.

I'm going down in tire size a little. I'd like to improve ride quality some - stiffness and body roll. I am going to get a better steering stabilizer (Kevin's or IRO or OME)

So, what I'd love to know - should I monkey with swapping the springs or just get better shocks? Should I get a better sway bar? Is there anything that the PO left out that should definitely be added to the setup to make it better or keep from wearing out other components?

Let me know if there is more info or more pics that would be useful. Also, I know it needs a bath.

Thanks, Will



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69 CJ-6, Really just a pile of parts
79 Cherokee S "Charlie" that my parents bought new in 81
04 LJ build TBD
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Unread 02-18-2013, 06:10 PM   #5
brianestep
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Nice work! IRO I believe has both a 2" and a 3" kit. The 3" kit comes with extended rear sway links and a new track bar, but it is not adjustable if I recall their site. No access here at work so I'll leave that to you. The shocks sound like a Procomp number for some reason. I think you would thoroughly enjoy the addition of an Addco rear sway. Front I don't think is as important. A new stabilizer will tighten everything up as well. The Moog trail boss ssd107 is a great addition, and is probably what KOR (Kevins) sources as theirs, along with the OME.
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Unread 02-19-2013, 02:05 PM   #6
ArloGuthroJeep
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Keep the springs and upgrade the shocks.

Ditch the transfer case drop - it is worthless especially at your lift height.

The next thing to wear out will be the bushings in your control arms. Some are replacable, some aren't. You'll start to hear clunks when they go out.
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Unread 02-19-2013, 02:21 PM   #7
4wmm
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I just heard back from IRO. The springs are 4" springs.

I'll do reading on here about shock choices. That's what I've been thinking would be most reasonable. I went to an AT tire yesterday and that made a huge difference in ride quality, even just hitting bumps.

I'll also research about how to determine which bushings are replaceable. I have a mild clunk and was wondering if that was the control arms or if I need bar pin eliminators.

I feel like a tool for even asking about the body roll. I did a little reading and am convinced that an upgraded rear sway bar would be worth the effort.

As for the t-case drop, any reason to bother to take it out or since it's there should I just leave it? I know it cuts into my clearance but I'm just not planning to wheel this Jeep too hard.

The guidance and input is appreciated.
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69 CJ-6, Really just a pile of parts
79 Cherokee S "Charlie" that my parents bought new in 81
04 LJ build TBD
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Unread 02-19-2013, 03:04 PM   #8
brianestep
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Nice! Didn't think you'd have the 4" springs, since you said "mild" lift. I should have known better. A 4" is what it should have looked like coming from the factory, right? Upper control arm bushings can be replaced. I'm assuming you have adjustable lower control arms in front. If you are replacing shocks anyway, I'd wait to see if the new shocks clunk before getting bar pins. Most people would tell you the t-case drop is dumb, as like you know, you loose that in clearance. Depending on what driveshafts you have, probably not necessary either way. But if you don't care about the clearance, keep it... but I doubt it's doing anything.
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-Brian- 2000 WJ Four liter, 4" RC springs; Bilstein 5100s; JKS trackbar w/KOR bushings; Stillen rotors; KOR (RC) 1.5" wheel spacers; 265/75/16 Treadwright Guard Dogs; Rusty AirTube, Amsoil Cone; Thule M.O.A.B.; Bumper delete; rear seat disco
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Unread 02-20-2013, 12:32 PM   #9
4wmm
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I'll be honest, it looked more "mild" than 4". I agree, these things should have been more lifted from the factory. What a cool look.

Anyway, now that I've driven it a little on less aggressive tires I can hear more things - like clunking. I've done some research before asking but I can't find a clear answer to these two questions. How can I tell which bushings are worn? I know that I should look for cracking etc but to some extent, all older rubber gets some cracks in it.

Once I establish which ones are worn, how do I know if that particular bushing is serviceable? A couple of people asked that question and the threads all turn into tips on how to get the old bushings out.

Since I'm here and my tools are back east, I try to take the simple approach with most projects. So depending on the arm that needs bushings, I may just buy replacement OEM arms.

I am still unable to determine what track bar I have. It looks factory-like but it definitely has a nut on the end (see pic above). I've looked at several aftermarket ones online and they appear to be more obviously threaded/adjustable. This is something I keep reading is necessary if lifted.

I'm picking up an Addco rear sway bar today.

Progress. Thanks for the help sorting out the suspension mysteries.
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Will M
69 CJ-6, Really just a pile of parts
79 Cherokee S "Charlie" that my parents bought new in 81
04 LJ build TBD
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Unread 02-21-2013, 08:44 AM   #10
ArloGuthroJeep
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IRO trackbar is my guess.

Cracks in bushings are signs they are going out - typically they really start to clunk when there is true visible damage to the bushing. I think the only bushings that aren't servicable are the ones on one of the ends of the lower control arms. They are elliptical in shape. The other bushings are ~$8-$12 a piece of replace. In my history running a 4" lift, the UCA, axle side bushings (which are in the axle housing, not the control arms) failed far more than anything else.

IMHO, I would install BPE at the same time as replacing the shocks if you can afford it.
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'04 WJ, 6" Clayton LA's, 242 SYE, 35" BFG MT KM2's, 4.56 gears, & D44a locked
'14 WK2 Limited w/5.7L, ORAI, & Tow Package
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