Arlo's WJ Buildup thread - Page 15 - JeepForum.com

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post #211 of 335 Old 06-18-2008, 06:03 PM
froggo27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArloGuthroJeep View Post
Yeah uhm, power was out this morning and for some reason, most of the neighborhoods garage doors were open...odd!
hey, i already claimed..i mean sad, i dont know where you live before anything happeneed!!!


Kamil

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post #212 of 335 Old 06-19-2008, 10:18 PM
theksmith
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hey back on post #148 where you had 33's on 4.5" lift and no trimming except front bumpber - what size bumpstop extension where you running? thanks!

also can't wait to hear how the clayton works out for you, i just got mine installed and i've got a little shimmy to work out, let us know what you end up setting your angles at with the clayton.
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post #213 of 335 Old 06-19-2008, 11:37 PM Thread Starter
ArloGuthroJeep
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theksmith: Just 2" bump stop extensions, but with my shock combo I was running, I was maxing out on compression ~2" before the bump stop took hold.

Claytons update:
I have a new found respect for those welding upside down...Hell keeping my head up was hard

Embaressed to post these welds so I won't show a close up of 2/3 of the sides (which I will be redoing possibly)...Had one side I was happy with. Only have half of it welded since I ran out of time tonight.

Biggest issue I had on the first 2 sides were getting the welder settings set up properly. Have it turned up pretty far since I am running .023 wire for this and I am used to .030 wire.

The rest will get messed with next week. Crossmember 3/4 installed:



My pseudo respectable side:


Criticism? Constructive or otherwise

'04 WJ, 6" Clayton LA's, 242 SYE, 35" BFG MT KM2's, 4.56 gears, & D44a locked
'14 WK2 Limited w/5.7L, ORAI, & Tow Package


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post #214 of 335 Old 06-20-2008, 07:06 AM
froggo27
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oh great welds Ryan, i hope you bring that welder on the trail....just in case some or all parts decide to fall off with the first flex...wait, nevermind, when they do it'll be a free for all for anybody that has a running WJ.

Kamil

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post #215 of 335 Old 06-21-2008, 10:05 PM
dnrisden
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Welding upside down is a real challenge. Before you tackle the rest you need to get some .030. You will get better welds and keep from burning the crap out of yourself. If you need a hand sometime let me know, I will be back in town on tuesday finally. Can't wait to see the rig wheeling with long arms.

Don

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post #216 of 335 Old 06-22-2008, 07:16 PM Thread Starter
ArloGuthroJeep
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Hey Don, I have .030 as well and normally use that, but was recommended a while ago to use .023 on the thinner sheet metal stuff - do you think I should switch back to .030? I am actually getting less splatter with the .023 and haven't burned myself once (surprisingly) compared to the splatter I sometimes get falling into my tennis shoes from the .030 stuff

'04 WJ, 6" Clayton LA's, 242 SYE, 35" BFG MT KM2's, 4.56 gears, & D44a locked
'14 WK2 Limited w/5.7L, ORAI, & Tow Package


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post #217 of 335 Old 06-23-2008, 10:01 PM Thread Starter
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Well the crossmember is all welded up now.


These welds look flat, but they are actually pretty deep since they are filling up a 1/4" gap...finally getting the hang of welding upside down:


This is one of the ends I didn't like from my first try last week that I ground back down and rewelded. Half of it is welded waiting for it to cool:

'04 WJ, 6" Clayton LA's, 242 SYE, 35" BFG MT KM2's, 4.56 gears, & D44a locked
'14 WK2 Limited w/5.7L, ORAI, & Tow Package


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post #218 of 335 Old 06-23-2008, 10:06 PM Thread Starter
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My next step is going to be to remove my muffler and add a turn-down there. I'll get a more permenant solution later.

After that I need to trim a couple of the brackets from my sliders. I will be removing two bolt holes from each slider and I will just weld those in place once the frame rail supports are in place.

Once everything is removed & trimmed, I will place the frame rail support against the crossmember. There is a left and a right one. Each support has one square end which goes against the corssmember, and the other one is angled at ~7-8deg inward. This is so the rear LCA/UCA bracket gets angled properly for the UCA's since they are triangulated. This will be the hardest part since I want both sides to be at the same angle, AND for both to be pointing at the correct location.

I do have one snafu that I need to get taken care of and I will call Clayton tomorrow. The bracket which sits on top of the rear diff where the two UCA's come together is too small for the two joints to fit between the brackets. The joint is measing like 2.622" wide and the bracket is like 2.597" wide. Not something I think I can wack open but I'll try if Clayton tells me to try that I guess.

'04 WJ, 6" Clayton LA's, 242 SYE, 35" BFG MT KM2's, 4.56 gears, & D44a locked
'14 WK2 Limited w/5.7L, ORAI, & Tow Package


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post #219 of 335 Old 06-23-2008, 11:00 PM
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i have my exhaust just hacked off after the cat right now as well. i think i know how i'm going to fit a new muffler and everthing in, but i'm interested in seeing how you do yours as well if you finish first.

also what are you planning to do for t-case skid, you going to modify the IRO one?

thanks
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post #220 of 335 Old 06-23-2008, 11:06 PM Thread Starter
ArloGuthroJeep
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I am thinking about either modifying the IRO one for now (cheaper) or making a belly skid and selling the IRO one...haven't decided yet. I'll make up my mind when I get the frame rail supports up.

'04 WJ, 6" Clayton LA's, 242 SYE, 35" BFG MT KM2's, 4.56 gears, & D44a locked
'14 WK2 Limited w/5.7L, ORAI, & Tow Package


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post #221 of 335 Old 06-24-2008, 01:59 AM
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I'm glad your thinking right Ryan. http://www.mallcrawlin.com/forum/sho...hlight=warning

ZJ 98 5.9 LTD. Lots of mods. 7" T&T's Long Arm Lift ,BFG KM2"s,35X12.50x16's,4:56's, Vanco brake upgrade, M1intake,Holley52mmTB,MikeLeach Headers,, Arb'ed HP D30,Aussie Locked rear,Procomp MX6 Shocks,Arb front,RearTR bumpers,ECT.ECT.


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post #222 of 335 Old 06-24-2008, 11:09 PM Thread Starter
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Well I have 4/6ths of the welding done. The crossmember and frame stiffener/LCA bracket on the driver side are all welded up. Just have the frame stiffener/LCA bracket on the passanger side to weld. I wanted to get it done tonight but I realized that I made an awful lot of noise grinding and don't want to upset my neighbors.

I had to cut off part of the slider bracket. Here you can see it was cut off as well as the two holes where the slider used to mount to the frame:



Cut off my exhaust and installed a turn down (not pictured):


Mounted the rear LCA bracket on the driver side:


Mounted up the frame stiffener which also creates a subframe between the front crossmember/LCA mounts and the rear LCA/UCA mounts. It is stitch welded to the frame for 1-1.5" lengths every 6-8" or so.



And here is where I did a REALLY bone head mistake


Can you see what is wrong?

























I welded it up there with the bolt already in the bracket. Not a big deal except the bolt wants to come out into the frame rail So I'll have a REALLY fun time getting a hacksaw in there to try and cut it off. Luckily those are my fuel lines running right next to the frame rail right there to make things easier for me. DOH!

'04 WJ, 6" Clayton LA's, 242 SYE, 35" BFG MT KM2's, 4.56 gears, & D44a locked
'14 WK2 Limited w/5.7L, ORAI, & Tow Package


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post #223 of 335 Old 06-24-2008, 11:31 PM
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can you fit your grinder in there with a cutoff wheel? or is it too tight of a squeeze? have fun cutting that grade 8 bolt lol

Matt


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post #224 of 335 Old 06-24-2008, 11:32 PM Thread Starter
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Too tight - way too tight.

'04 WJ, 6" Clayton LA's, 242 SYE, 35" BFG MT KM2's, 4.56 gears, & D44a locked
'14 WK2 Limited w/5.7L, ORAI, & Tow Package


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post #225 of 335 Old 06-24-2008, 11:57 PM
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Make the expedition down to Edgewater and you can borrow my Sawzall Ryan. You might have to stop at sears to get some blades...a dozen would probably do it

Jim Karlin
"How the heck do you get there?"
"Duh! Big RED Jeep!!!"

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Best customer service in the states:

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5" lift, Claytons, KOR radiator support, rear bumper, steering brace, etc, etc, etc.

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