I didnt go on his trip, but was up there today and a couple of week ago (live about 30 min from there). We usually stick to trails 22 and 26 and similar trails for our mostly stock TJs that go.
You can see the windmills from the gravel trail. They have gates up that you are not supposed to go beyond, but even at the gates, you are only about 100yrds or so from one. Different trails are said to come up to different windmill views.
Yes, it is $17 PER PERSON, so two people is $34 for a day pass. If you plan on going several times, a 1 year pass is about $88. It runs calender year so you are best to buy it in January since it ends in December...ends in December even if you buy the year pass in August.