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Go Back JeepForum.com > Four Wheeling Forums > Wheelin' Neighborhood > Great Lakes USA > Michigan Jeep Forum > Grand Rapids CJ 7 Build

Rough Country Jeep Suspension Deals at Rockridge 4WD!Looking to re-gear?! CRAZY DEALS ON YUKON GEARS right hereJK specific skid plates from Clayton Off Road Mfg.

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Unread 12-29-2011, 03:12 PM   #31
GR8DEER
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Location: Grand Rapids, MI
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Here are the pics of the Heater box back in. Yes, it really happened and I have the pictures to prove it.

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Unread 12-29-2011, 03:15 PM   #32
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Dash is going back together nicely.
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Unread 12-29-2011, 03:21 PM   #33
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Got a small start on the wiring. Should go relatively smooth (Knock on wood) But we are still waiting for the new L.E.D. taillights and turn signals to come in.
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Unread 12-30-2011, 03:12 PM   #34
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I thought I'd post this little tip for anyone who might put a fiberglass body on their rig in the future.
We ran into a small problem with our pedal assembly. The brake pedal had almost no travel.

PLEASE DO NOT BEND YOUR PEDAL ARM OR ASSEMBLY. (Yeah I've seen some crap out there.) You will just weaken an important piece that may fail we you need it.

Due to the fiberglass body being thicker at the fire wall, than the original steel body you may have to adjust/modify the link rod between the brake pedal and the brake booster linkage assembly. Here's how we fixed it :

1) Measure the rounded part of the rod, and cut it in half. Remember you are NOT measuring the whole rod just the rounded part.

2) Verify the diameter of the rod. (Ours was 7/16 so that's the measurement we'll use in the example)

3) We threaded the rod with a 7/16 die set.

4) We went to the local hardware store and bought a 7/16 Threaded Rod Coupler and two Jam Nuts ($1 total)

5) Put the jam nuts on (One on each half), then connect the two rod halves with the coupler.

6) Adjust to desired length, so the pedal has good travel, and tighten jam nuts.

I can not take credit for this fix. Dave at Cascade 4WD suggested it. I thought it worked awesome, so I just wanted to share the info.
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Unread 01-08-2012, 06:08 PM   #35
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Big snafu

So the wiring is done. All systems check out. We decided to fire it up for the first time. We added a little gas and.... Bam, she fired right up. Motor sounds tight and runs well... With the exception of a little rough idle. We started to try and dial the carb in and notice the accelerator pump was froze. We pulled the side off the carb and what do we find. The inside is nothing but corrosion. I've never seen anything like it. It's a Holley Off-Road Truck Avenger 670cfm. I've seen carbs that have been out in the weather for 20 plus years and have never seen one in this shape. So off to order a new Carb tomorrow. Anyone ever have this problem before?

So we finished installing the shifter, cable and linkage
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Unread 01-09-2012, 06:32 PM   #36
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Carb Updated

So I was doing some research online and found out Holley had some problems with some of their carbs. Guess what, mine was one of them.

I called the tech hotline at Holley. WOW, is all I can say. They have some customer service going on at that place. Essentially they verified the model and date code and No Questions asked, told me to send it to them with my return address and they will send me a brand new one. Done deal

I could not believe it. Brand new, FREE shiny parts.
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Unread 01-11-2012, 11:20 AM   #37
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Score!

We just scored a Family Roll bar and a back seat out of a YJ. The plan is to have the Roll bar sprayed with bed liner. And the seat is gray, so we'll be dyeing that black. I'll post before and after pictures of both at a later time.
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Unread 01-18-2012, 09:10 AM   #38
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HOLLEY Came Thru!

Just got a great package from UPS. It's our brand new, FREE Holley Truck Avenger Carburetor.

I can't wait to get home and put this thing on!
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Unread 01-22-2012, 05:08 PM   #39
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OK here are the before and after pictures of the rear seat we bought. It turned out great.
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Unread 01-22-2012, 05:14 PM   #40
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Here are the before and after pictures of our roll-bar. We welded in a cross brace for the racing harnesses and had it sprayed with bed-liner. Also notice the half doors have been sprayed as well.
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Unread 01-26-2012, 06:51 AM   #41
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Here's the latest update. The 304 runs great! The new carb is awesome. Now we've run into a set back and it's making me absolutely loose my mind. I've been over the brake system several times. I've spent more than seven hours trying to get them bled out to no prevail. I'm even on my second "NEW" master cylinder. Mean while some more of the new black hardware has come in and my son has replaced that (pictures soon). Next a new tranny pan and filter along with a gasket. Once that's done, it will be time to make the brakes work one way or another.
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Unread 02-03-2012, 06:38 PM   #42
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OK, just got back in town. We got the new LED Taillights in and wired. They look sweet. This weekend I'm going to chase that brake problem that has been driving me nuts.
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Unread 02-04-2012, 05:18 PM   #43
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MYSTERY BRAKE PROBLEM - SOLVED!

The calipers were on the wrong sides, and while the bleeders were on top, their angles were all wrong for getting the air out. Switched the calipers, and the system bled out in under 5 minutes .

We gave it a small mobility test in the front yard. A quick trip down the road. Hopefully tomorrow we can get a chance to take it out a little more.
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Unread 03-07-2012, 09:34 PM   #44
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Door Pins / Door Striker pins onFibeglass Tub

Sorry there haven't been any updates, but let me assure you that there has been work getting done. One of our latest adventures was installing the Rugged Ridge striker pins for our fiberglass body. Boy what a treat. You'd think that for $80+/- that they would have these things figured out and make them so they look half way descent. What a pile of garbage.I've been all over JF look for a good thread and the only thing I found was where some guy put bolts thru the body and you could see them on the outside, which is ok, but just not the look I was going for.

Here was our fix.

1) Cut off the extra long protruding nuts on the back of the bracket so it sat flush on the inside of the tub. The we drilled out the remainder of the nut so a bolt could just slide thru.

2) We lined the bracket and pin up with the door and marked where on the body it would have to be cut.

3) Using a Dremel with a straight carbide cutter we cut the tub, little by little fitting the bracket as we went.
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Unread 03-07-2012, 09:48 PM   #45
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Door Pins / Door Striker pins on Fibeglass Tub

4) We welded a small piece of 1/8" steel to the bracket.

5) We put it in a vice and bent the steel. We did this by holding a piece of bar on the add steel and hitting it with a hammer so it bent uniformly across the length of the metal. This was to make the bracket wrap-around the tub. Then we ground all the welds.

6) We used a thread insert tool to install 1/4 threaded inserts into the inside of the fiberglass tub (No bolts all the way thru the body )

When we were done we were left with a nice clean look, that is way stronger that the crap Rugged Ridge put into the box.
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