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Unread 02-24-2011, 09:04 PM   #16
clgielin
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The gun to dispence these 2-part tubes is over $400! Sounds like we will be going with the cup and knife method.

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Unread 02-24-2011, 09:12 PM   #17
801DubJay
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WHOA! Uh yeah, cup and knife for sure, haha. That's crazy
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Unread 02-24-2011, 11:57 PM   #18
85IrocZ-28
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Yeah, it isn't cheap but it is awesome stuff.

Edit: HOLY MOTHER, $400? I will bring some paper cups and plastic knives.
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Unread 02-25-2011, 05:45 AM   #19
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3M Adhesive Applicator Gun
Grainger Item #2KVB3 Price (ea.)$436.75Brand3M Mfr. Model #8117 Ship Qty. 1 Sell Qty. (Will-Call) 1 Ship Weight (lbs.)3.69 Usually Ships** Today Catalog Page No.1141 Country of Origin
(Country of Origin is subject to change.)Switzerland
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Unread 02-26-2011, 08:55 PM   #20
85IrocZ-28
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Well, we had fun. I had the easy part, I watched and gave advice while Chris and Matt hacked away. You guys did a good job.

I will just post all the pics I took so that you can save the ones you like and upload them to your build threads. Some of them are pretty garbage, next time I will have to bring a real camera.
















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Unread 02-26-2011, 09:03 PM   #21
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More pics:








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Unread 02-26-2011, 10:48 PM   #22
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Dang, nice job guys. I KNEW I was forgetting something! Today was my one day off and I was meaning to ask if a JK could crash the party. I am wanting to trim my flares to clear some 35's later on down the line. Ah well, looking good!
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Unread 02-27-2011, 12:36 AM   #23
85IrocZ-28
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We would have loved to have you join us, the Dub Club welcomes all JK's.
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Unread 02-27-2011, 01:32 AM   #24
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lookin real good guys

im glad i stopped by, even if i didnt do any cutting on my Dub today.
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Unread 02-27-2011, 01:46 AM   #25
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We would have loved to have you join us, the Dub Club welcomes all JK's.
Except at GSW
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Unread 04-19-2013, 09:07 PM   #26
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old thread, new ?? whats the process to reseal the fenders after trimming? looking at the pics it looks like caulk in the outer seam? im looking to trim soon but its all new to me. im looking to get 32's for sure, possibly 33's on a 3".
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Unread 04-19-2013, 09:52 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by dru_b
old thread, new ?? whats the process to reseal the fenders after trimming? looking at the pics it looks like caulk in the outer seam? im looking to trim soon but its all new to me. im looking to get 32's for sure, possibly 33's on a 3".
This is the stuff. Bit spendy but worth it
image-3345282210.jpg  
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Unread 04-20-2013, 12:37 AM   #28
85IrocZ-28
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Yep. Body panel adhesive in the inside...and I used black silicone from home depot to seal from the outside and cover the sharp edges.
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Unread 02-16-2014, 09:48 AM   #29
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How far can you cut into the forward most part of the rear fenders? Is the sheet metal at that pinch seam load bearing? Will the uni-body come apart at the seems if I cut to close or don't "3M" it well enough? Also how far can I cut up the front fenders?
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Unread 02-17-2014, 10:26 PM   #30
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How far can you cut into the forward most part of the rear fenders? Is the sheet metal at that pinch seam load bearing? Will the uni-body come apart at the seems if I cut to close or don't "3M" it well enough? Also how far can I cut up the front fenders?
Q: Pinch seam forward most part of the rear fenders...is it load bearing?
A: I am not an auto engineer. I know that others have preferred to cut the inner half of the fenders off, and roll the outer fender over and weld everything together in a pizza pie method (see pic below of a Jeeper from Cali that did it that way).

What I can tell you is that I have been wheeling and flexing my WJ pretty hard for a few years with no problems. Between the rear bumper and where the fender meets the rocker panel, I think there were a total of 6 spot welds, so I wasn't too worried about it. Sliders provide good side protection, and most of us have jeeps lifted and the impact zones have been raised if a passenger car were to t-bone the vehicle. Factory or Cut, there isn't a ton of structure behind the panels to protect the passenger compartment area if you were to be t-boned by a high bumper truck. You will have to make your own decision. I don't feel personally that I have lessened the structural integrity or safety of my vehicle. However, any time you modify you are changing how a vehicle will react in a crash. Proceed at your own risk.

You don't really need to worry about the unibody coming apart if you cut too much, as you asked. The unibody is a lower frame rail that is made of carefully designed structural folds in sheetmetal that act as a frame, instead of a full steel unit that the body bolts to. You are cutting outer body panels to do this, not the unibody. That said, you would be separating the outer and inner body panels. If they are not re-attached in some way, the panels will be able to flex independently of themselves, this would not be good. Body Panel Adhesive is used from the factory to glue panels together, and has worked well for me.


Photos courtesy William G. Note that you would still need to at least silicone the inside to seal it. And I would recommend removing the interior panels and insulation to prevent a vehicle fire when welding.
Cut/Slice and weld method:







Here is how much I personally cut on my rear fenders:



I sliced out the middle piece to tack my fender:


I slide that piece up in between the inner and outer fenders, folded it over, and welded it. NOTE: We did NOT do this on the Jeeps previously listed on this thread. My lines are not that clean, it didn't matter because I was covering them with flares. I tack welded the inner and outer fenders in place, and filled the gap with body panel adhesive. Here is the piece pushed up in between the inner/outer panels before folding the bottom lip over and tacking it:







How far can you cut on the front fenders...as far as you want.

However, I recommend leaving at least 1/4 inch on the vertical edge of the fender lip. Don't cut beyond that and into the slanted area. If you do, you are removing a fold that gives the fender rigidity. Many people that cut to far have fenders that are not rigid, and fold in very easily if someone simply leans against the fender.
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