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Unread 06-26-2013, 06:36 PM   #16
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Is there a local place that would stock the suspension stuff I will need to install these YJ springs? The stuff like the bushings, plates, maybe the shackles and the other stuff? I need to get that traction bar ordered but didn't do so today because I wanted to order all the little things I would ned for the springs in the same order to save on shipping. If there is somewhere local that has all this crap I would just assume buy it there. I have a hard time finding anything CJ locally but with YJ parts maybe its different?

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Unread 06-26-2013, 07:25 PM   #17
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My rear crown brand springs are 6 leafs but since its a different brand im not sure if that means they are more heavy duty or the same as your packs. Bushings could be purchased at skyjacker, at least thats where i got mine. Probably can find shackles at 4 wheel parts or skyjacker as well. Spring plates im not sure. As for the traction bar if you have the ability to weld then its not too difficult of a job. Basically you would need some type of crossmember behind the skid plate, unless your daring enough to use the skid as the crossmember, to mount one end of the antiwrap to. Then on the axle side you have one mount generally at the axle line or just below it, and one above the axle. Its a little confusing to type out but here is a link to a thread about them.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/show-your-anti-wrap-bar-517106/

Are you buying the antiwrap bar up front and then having it installed? If all the parts come with the kit and its just a matter of welding some things together im sure you could find a place to do it for less than $375. Seems like Gaylons in lehi, or Moab Outfitters in lindon would be possibilities. Theres also 6 states in orem but they are usually a few weeks out. Seeing your in SLC im not sure whats available up that way.

If its more involved and requires some fabbing/building a crossmember then it could get more expensive.
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Unread 06-26-2013, 10:48 PM   #18
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I plan on buying the M.O.R.E. bar that I linked to earlier in the thread. I was also planning on having some thick flat bar burned to the skid plate from frame to frame and use longer bolts to accommodate the added piece. Then I would weld the anti wrap bar onto the skid where it had been beefed up. After looking at your link it was the guy who posted second that I had looked at. That is the same bar I will be buying as well. I feel like I understand the basics of how they should be mounted I just don't feel like I could get all the angles like they should be on my own. That and I haven't got a welder and any skills. I feel like this is a big enough addition that I want it done "right" and I don't feel like I could get it done. I may need to have someone adjust the plates on the rear axle to lower the pinion angle at the same time so there is also that.

I will do some more calling around tomorrow to try and get more prices. I am okay driving somewhere if I feel like they can do what I want for a reasonable price. Thanks for listing those shops down south, I'll give them a shout. Six States is the place that told me to call the guy that quoted me $850 so I may just stop by tomorrow and chat with them in person about it.
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Unread 06-26-2013, 11:19 PM   #19
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I would call Wrench-it-Center in SLC and ask if they would be able to help you install everything. I did my 2" puck lift, shocks and an axle shaft swap in one day.
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Unread 06-27-2013, 07:48 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mickey_D View Post
I would call Wrench-it-Center in SLC and ask if they would be able to help you install everything. I did my 2" puck lift, shocks and an axle shaft swap in one day.
I totally forgot about them. Isn't there UJC guy that works there? That would be very beneficial to me because its not that I don't want to do the install myself its just that I don't know what I'm doing and don't want to screw something up. If I went there I imagine I could even hang around if I paid them to do it and watch (and hopefully learn).

We'll see how the other phone calls go this morning on pricing.
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Unread 06-27-2013, 01:49 PM   #21
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Duff used to work there. I think it's either his father or his uncle that owns the place.

They won't do any of the work for you (I don't think, if they do it's standard shop rates), but they're more than willing to give advice and show you how to do it yourself.
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Unread 06-27-2013, 03:04 PM   #22
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Wrench It You can pay them $80 and hour to do the work or have them stand off to the side for $40 and hour. $5 for a "quick question." I have been scouring the internets for bet prices on the parts that I need. This has taken way to much time. Like everyone else I wish I have more money so I wouldn't have to take so much time to track down the best prices. Shipping is going to kick my *** the most.
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Unread 06-27-2013, 09:29 PM   #23
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What do you guys think about CJ springs up front and YJ springs in the back? I was looking at all the stuff I'll have to change over and how much its going to cost and wonder what the difference will be with mis matched springs.

I have read that CJ springs are stiffer and will make the jeep sit higher than the YJ's. I have the three YJ springs I bought yesterday but would still be saving money if I only used two of them on the back end since the cheapest I could find them was $90 a piece. For new front CJ springs it will be $250 for both but I wouldn't have to buy new spring hangers, plates, and shackle hangers. If I went this route I would get the light duty in hopes that they would be a bit softer and not sit higher than the rears.

Thoughts?
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Unread 06-27-2013, 10:16 PM   #24
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Personally my mindset after building jeeps for the last few years is build it right the first time. It may mean saving a bit longer but I'd just do the full swap up front. Will save a lot of headache and money in the long run.
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Unread 06-27-2013, 10:32 PM   #25
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Yeah your right. When I started working on my CJ I told myself I was going to do stuff the half assed way the PO seemed to do projects. I guess I need to remind myself this every once in a while. Just makes it hard though when the "right" way costs much more $$$.

Any idea whether new springs will affect pinion angle? I had planned on getting the rear springs put on then doing the anti wrap bar afterwards. This would allow me to more easily adjust the pinion angle before I weld on the bar. I am just wondering what to expect. I don't think I'll have the parts I need to put on the rear springs until next weekend and am trying to figure out whether to order perch hangers in case things need to be moved. I know I could use shims but would prefer to set the angle with the perches.
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Unread 06-27-2013, 10:42 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sanctified View Post
Yeah your right. When I started working on my CJ I told myself I was going to do stuff the half assed way the PO seemed to do projects. I guess I need to remind myself this every once in a while. Just makes it hard though when the "right" way costs much more $$$.

Any idea whether new springs will affect pinion angle? I had planned on getting the rear springs put on then doing the anti wrap bar afterwards. This would allow me to more easily adjust the pinion angle before I weld on the bar. I am just wondering what to expect. I don't think I'll have the parts I need to put on the rear springs until next weekend and am trying to figure out whether to order perch hangers in case things need to be moved. I know I could use shims but would prefer to set the angle with the perches.
Depending on how tired the current springs are, yeah it could affect the pinion angle. For me the best way to do it would be to cut off the current perch mounts on the axle, buy some longer ones(helps fight axle-wrap and some allow for adjustment of wheelbase), set the pinion angle, then weld them on. If i wasnt able to do that i would use shims. nothing wrong with them, in fact im running one on my front axle right now.

When you say perch hangers though that throws me a little bit. do you mean the perch on the axle, or the hanger thats attached to the frame? My terminology isnt the best. If you mean the spring hanger on the frame then im not sure if that can compensate for pinion angle or not. seems like that would just let you run longer or shorter springs.
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Unread 06-28-2013, 09:41 AM   #27
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My terminology is obviously lacking and I confuse myself. The rear springs still have some spring to them but the fronts are a lot worse, they are flat and twisted. Would the front springs affect the pinion angle at all? I found some 7" long leaf spring mounts (perches) that I just added to my Mountain Off Road order. If the longer perches help with axle wrap that would be nice to have and ought to be worth it in the long run. They do have the three holes to fine tune axle location.
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Unread 06-28-2013, 10:38 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sanctified
My terminology is obviously lacking and I confuse myself. The rear springs still have some spring to them but the fronts are a lot worse, they are flat and twisted. Would the front springs affect the pinion angle at all? I found some 7" long leaf spring mounts (perches) that I just added to my Mountain Off Road order. If the longer perches help with axle wrap that would be nice to have and ought to be worth it in the long run. They do have the three holes to fine tune axle location.
Yeah if the front springs are messed up it can affect the front axle pinion angle. Same with if the rears are twisted it can affect the angle too. Sounds like a good but in the perches. I think I bought the same ones. Either M.O.R.E. or Dave's unlimited have the shackle reversal kit I bought. They have lots of goodies.
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Unread 07-03-2013, 08:30 AM   #29
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I should have all the parts I ordered last week today and will hopefully get going on this over the long weekend. One question I have though is about replacing the pinion yoke. I've decided to replace it since one of the tabs that keeps the u joint in place has broken off though I'm not sure what parts I need to replace with it. This is the pinion yoke kit I have been looking at on Amazon. It comes with the yoke, nut, seal, spacer, u bolts, and u joint. I already have the u bolt conversion stuff installed that replaced the strap style yoke. My yoke seal is still good and isn't leaking and I don't want to screw that up.

Do I need to replace the seal while I'm in there or can I just pull the nut and yoke and slap the new one in?
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Unread 07-03-2013, 09:11 AM   #30
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When I replaced mine on my old 44 I actually got a 1350 yoke and a 1310/1350 conversion ujoint. Not sure if that's available for your application(and it may not be worth it if you have a Dana 35 or something) but it does get you one step closer to a stronger driveline. It is a little more expensive though.

As for the yoke I believe your supposed to redo the seal every time you change the yoke but I never did. Just removed the old pinion nut and washer, replaced the yoke, put the washer on, used a good amount of blue loctite on the pinion threads, then put the new nut on. There is a specific ft/lbs of torque the nut should be so I used a torque wrench to snug it down. That's probably the most important part.
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