I tell you guys what! When you feel like you are relatively knowledgeable and confident in your automotive skill, someone like garza and Khris comes along an shows you what real talent is. It's really quite humbling when you think about what you are capable of, and then see some of their pics. Excellent job guys!
The difference between stupidity and ignorance. Ignorance is doing something wrong and not knowing better. Stupidity is knowing better, but doing it anyway. Don't be stupid!
Khris has me blown away in the fab department. Just for the record...most of what I post about my current Jeep is not my doing, and I will always give credit where credit is due.
And just for fun, here is the last Jeep I built by myself....started with tub and frame.
Specs: 1995 YJ
TBI 350/TH350/Atlas II
Full width Chevy Dana 60 front
Full-float Dana 60 rear
BTF front full-width kit with stock YJ springs
Rear started with XJ springs, but shortly built a 4-link rear with coil-overs.
started with 39" Iroks
custom (me) built steering
LOT's more lol........
THEN I sold it....got out of Jeeping for a couple years..bought my current Jeep in '09.
Ehhhh, I'm no pro, I just have some tools and am not afraid to hack things up! That and I have no life so that helps too. I found out yesterday there's such a thing as too tight though! LOL The tacoma now has a "bump" on it's roof from me wedging a tube in that didn't exactly fit right. The roof sheetmetal though flexed to accommodate it! LOL DOHT! So I get to redo that one. I'm probably not posting pictures till later this week though when it's closer to finished inside the cab. It's amazing how long some of the tubes take to fit while others just slap right in no problem! I will say, I wish I'd paid more attention in geometry and trig classes now though! If I'd only known that crap really actually did have a purpose. LOL
Also, every time I look at the wiring harness that's just laying across the floor of this tacoma in my garage it makes me a little nervous that the truck will never start or run right again! LOL
If anyone happens to know an "professional" wiring people here in Vegas that would do on the spot jobs rather then me bringing the truck to them I'd love to talk with them about some things we want to have done later this summer/early fall on this truck. I don't know what to expect cost wise but we've got some $ budgeted for that stuff and it would be nice to talk to someone to get a realistic idea of what we want done vs. cost of making it happen.
I want the back of the custom dash to look clean and professional kinda like this
And depending on cost I'd love to have the factory toyota harness stripped down to bare minimum. Pull out all of the HVAC, ABS, Air Bag, and other crap. I'd like to have just the wires to make the engine run and what we need for our gauges and accessories like the intercom, race radio, parker pumpers, GPS, etc...
wiring the panel would be fairly easy with a wiring schematic(easy if you can get auto cad electric).The basic routing is pretty easy once it is cleaned up like that. Adel clamps are readily available as are zip ties. The issue that you will run into is the cannon plugs and the anti chaffing wrapping. The cannon plugs are generally pricey and require expensive crimpers and insertion/exertion tools. As far as the rest of the cars harness, if you would like to retain the stock plugs going to the sensors/relays it would be best to do this once you get everything hooked up and trace the wires back from the plugs that you do not need. A good chilton's type manual should have the yota schematics in the back to help with this.
I do have a decent amount of different crimpers, zip tie guns, and other wiring tools if you need to borrow anything. To get a panel looking as clean as that the key is to run and label wires from the panel side then terminate at the cannon plug side, this will give you a very clean look. One thing to consider if you are going to be running your com in with the bundle is interference from the power wires. This interference can be fixed by either running the wires in separate bundles or using shielded wires.
Color coding you be very helpful for any future fixes. You will also have to find out the load ratting for every circuit to ensure that you run the proper gauge of wire. If you go too small, the wire can get hot and start a fire. If you go too large you are just adding weight and cost to the project, and you bundles will be huge.
Well there's one big issue I have with wiring. I'm colorblind... I can usually get by and rarely have issues but I'm usually doing something pretty simple, not starting from scratch on a dash and definitely not stripping down a factory harness to minimum. That's the biggest reason I'm planning on staying clear with it.
Right now we've got some money set aside to budget for the wiring, whether it's enough or too much I have no clue. Put it this way though, if it's say a 20 hour job to do the wiring on this truck, it would be a pretty decent pay rate under the table that I doubt most wouldn't complain about. LOL We're just guessing on it though.
I actually emailed the source I got those pictures from to just get a ballpark idea of what something like what we're looking for would run us.
Sounds like you've got an idea of what it would take to do something like this. Are you interested in a paying side job of sort? The truck isn't mobile and actually it's not even at the stage of doing it yet but it probably could be there within a few weeks. There's no deadline pressure involved at this point cause we're months away from completion still but if I found someone that was willing to take it on, they could get started pretty soon and work pretty much at their convenience here at there as they get time. The truck obviously is physically located in my garage.
I won't lie, this picture is a bit intimidating to me. I've joked more then once about wondering if it'll ever start again. I know it will but there's a bit of concern with what it's going to take to make it fire and run right! Sure, it's just a matter of plugging everything back in right? Except for most the stuff to plug back in we either don't want or are swapping over to aftermarket.
All the stuff towards center and pass side though is Air bag and HVAC stuff. That can all go if possible. All the stuff on the driver is mostly gauges and steering column. I've labeled where most of that came off of and I still have everything from the interior to hook back up if needed. There's stuff that can go away though I'm sure of like the dimmer knob and stuff like that. Heck, it's a 2WD truck yet it has the 4WD box in it. I'm guessing the box is for the rear e-locker though which is going away also.
I'm building a new steering column from scratch, it would be nice to put the turn signals on a toggle switch, don't need the auto off function though. No windshield wipers, hi/low headlights can be on a simple toggle also. I've got an idea of what we want, I've got the dash and all the gauges. I do want to put a oil pressure idiot light and possibly a water temp idiot light also even though we also have gauges. I know lights get your attention and even though it's the passenger's job to watch those gauges I know distractions happen which is why i want a light along with the gauges. I'm getting to the point hopefully sooner then later where if someone wanted to come tackle it I'll be working in the front of the truck and be out of their way.
I wish I had the time to help you out. The dummy lights would be pretty easy, you can get sensors that are set to close a contact at a pre determined temp/pressure, those could then power a relay to turn on the dummy light... unless you went with an LED light, then you could probably bypass the relay on the dummy light.
Are you still planning on running the stock ecu?
I also saw in the picture that you have power windows and locks... is that something that you would be keeping?
Will you be putting the stock dash back in or building one?
Do you want the gauge cluster removable?
All of the components (GPS, Radio, COM) do you want those on plugs to quick change? The components is a big one... do you want something that you can switch out quickly if it breaks, or do you want it hard wired in?
Depending on how far you go, and what all you want to keep factory can run up the cost drastically. There are many things that can be re purposed from the factory harness. For example, the blower motor from the AC should have a decent sized relay/fuse set up and that can be used to power some aux lighting.
Now the hardest thing and the largest price adder... how weatherproof does everything need to be?
Painless wiring makes some pretty clean products at a decent price. For the wire it looks like the most that they have is 50ft sections. Which with a project like this it would get very expensive. The key is to try to get most of the wire, connects, relays, switches, and other loose ends at a bulk price. While 500 ft of wire is expensive , it is way cheaper than buying 25ft at a time and you will always have some left over for other projects.
Painless makes a good product. I've re-wired 2 trucks with their kits and it was so easy. They even had new factory connections for everything.
Neither were as complex as your truck but install took less then 2 hrs to do the whole truck.
As a last resort I've got a good buddy that has re-wired a ton of cars and trucks and he knows what he's doing. He may be able to help you out but he lives in Parowan UT. I'm sure he would have no problem coming down to do it, but I would be much more convenient for you to have someone local.
It is great man. It will also update your fuse box so no more glass buses. The only issue I ran into was my fault. I was unplugging the tail lights and the solder broke off the bulb connector. A quick solder job fixed it though.
Not only are they color coded but the wires are labeled for what they are for. My Chevy kit came with provisions for an electric fan, 4 auxiliaries, and a towing harness.
but thats a chevy kit common and easy!...i doubt theres even a kit for a 73 wagoneer.
They will make custom kits and they make universal kits. I have been very pleased with painless. I never had any problems and when I called them they were very helpful. I think I paid a little more then $600 for the kit.
I'll just toss this out right now to give you an idea what we're working with... We're budgeting about $1000-1500 for a complete wiring job. We're hoping that's enough to cover a professional or someone that does darn good work to come in and setup the whole dash for us and hopefully strip down the factory harness as well. We have no clue if that's too much or not enough. It's just what we've set aside as a starting point at least.
Now when I say to "set up the dash", I'll fab it and figure out the install. I can also do the gauge layout and mounting but I want to speak with whoever's doing the wiring up front cause maybe that's something they'd rather do on their own for some unknown reason to make their job easier. We do have some input on gauge layout for practicality of what we're doing but whatever... I'll have the dash setup to simply bolt in and out and do whatever else will make their job easiest. My dash in truck simply unbolts with 5 bolts. The gauges though, oh god will I be cussing myself the day I've gotta pull that thing out!!!! LOL
Would like to keep the power windows and doors.
Does need to be pretty weather resistant as it is rare that we'll be racing in the rain but it does happen as it is a rain or shine sport. We won't have a windshield or rear window in the races. I'm "hoping" to make a quick bolt in bolt out front windshield frame for ease and the rear will be plexi and simply bolt in and out as well.
Custom dash, no factory gauges, we've got all autometer stuff.
Yes, stock factory ECU.
I would like pretty much everything in the dash to be mounted to the dash, in a perfect world I'd love then to wire everything on the dash to one or 2 or 3 major plugs basically so I could simply undo like 4 or 5 bolts, undo a couple plugs and then slide the whole dash out with everything intact. Now in reality, will we get that? I'm not sure. I could see possibly actually hard mounting the GPS to a bracket behind the dash and making it so it just sits up against it flush because of how it mounts but I would like everything else to actually come out easily with the dash. The race radio, intercom, horn controls will most likely all be mounted in a center consol we have for it also that molds up to the dash.
This is my truck but it's the exact same dash we've got for the race truck to give you an idea.
And this is the center console we have for it. You can see how it kinda just molds/butts up to the dash I have which is the same one that will be going in the race truck.
Nothing needs to be quick change on the fly I guess you can say. If a gauge or component fails we'll swap it out at the house between races, it's not something we'll be carrying spares of or anything like that. I would like the entire dash to be relatively easy to put in and out for race prep though.
If you plan on removing the dash that much, I would highly recommend a mil-spec type cannon plug. With the constant install/remove and vibration from racing, I do not believe that many normal automotive style connectors would hold up that good.
wooo hoo it is raining. I get off work here in a little bit, hopefully I can go find some flash floods!!! JK