Sorry, I was sleeping last night when my name was brought up... LOL I'm still around, I just don't post as much right now cause I don't officially have 4WD right now. Well, I guess technically I do since the Jeep is still at my house but it's too clean to use! I'll probably drive it sometime this weekend since it hasn't moved in about 2-3 weeks though.
Spool in the rear of my truck is completely fine! I bet if any of you rode in it in the dirt or on the street the spool would be one of the last things you notice. Well, except for today if we happened to be on a wet part of town. If that was the case, it would be the absolute first thing you notice when we turn a corner pretending to be Ken Block! Welded diff/spool + wet road = drift king!!!! LOL I'd heard it was sketchy but like most things you hear about you're a bit skeptical... No, this one is no BS... Turn a corner and blip the throttle even the slightest bit and you better be turning into the turn! LOL City streets it's not a big deal in fact it's actually pretty fun as long as no cops see you. On ramps at speed with a turn or overpasses like down at the spaghetti bowl I'd honestly either be on the shoulder creeping it around or I'd just go straight to the next exit and loop around on the city streets. I had it pitched sideways on the on ramp going from west bound tropicana to southbound 95 at about 45mph and it scared the crap out of me! LOL
So, spool on the street, imo is not a big deal except when wet. Luckily, wet isn't much of an issue as I'm typing to rain falling out side right now. LOL
And puck, don't be scared of the saw man, it's your friend!!! A convertible would be nice! LOL
I spent the last couple nights cutting the inner sheet metal out of a $14K truck that's technically not mine!!! LOL Did you know parts of a tacoma cab have 5 layers worth of sheet metal in them?
And for the rattle can... Just from experience, this was about 10 cans to do...
And currently about 7 years later with that same rattle can job...
It's only 2wd right now and probably will be still for a few months but... Wanna have a poser flexing contest? LOL Bring out your jeep. I can crawl the loading docks with the best of them! Just keep me away from a real trail where I need 4WD right now! LOL
Even still you're looking at a couple hundred in paint and body at least. 20-30 cans of paint, 80-120, then sand paper, body filler, etc. then at least 500 for decent lockers. Then you still have to do the lift! It's gonna be more than 3500 for all that.
roll on paint for $75 bucks for the whole truck.
lift = 800.
lift = a crap load less if he just goes SOA. (just some knuckle work and a lil steering and a shackle flip/reversal in the rear).
Lockers = i dunno, im not into that stuff.
Originally Posted by andy02
20-30 cans of paint? Dude, you are talking to Puck, not YSB. I've never met him but I don't think Puck would be painting a gay pride flag and peace signs on his rig. I could be wrong.
Saw a fuel injection kit in the 4wd hardware catalog. I'll dbl check and let u know price. It's a complete kit.
Originally Posted by Powrjunkey
Nevermind, it's $1200! Like marn said, go with a good electric pump. I've got a lot of stainless tubing in 3/8 if you need to go with a bigger fuel line. May help.
definitely what you just said. $1200 bucks to gain 2mpg and be able to go slightly more off camber.
Originally Posted by Puck81
I think it has 3/8 now, but I could be way wrong.
nope, 5/16th methinks.
As i have explained to puckaroo a few times, there be a couple ways to do the e-pump.
1. the easy way or the part time way. pick up a decent (40-50 bucks) pump and wire it to a switch, put it as close to the tank as possible attached to an EXISTING fuel line, and leave it at that. Rely on your mechanical pump for 90% of driving, but when its hot or you think you're gonna vapor lock, slip the switch and let the e-pump push up through your existing mechanical pump, thus solving the issue.
2. the correct way or the full time way. delete mechanical pump for $3.00. Buy a quality pump (i went with a holley red for like $110, its loud, but i can actually hear what its doing), wire it correctly (relay, etc) to the ignition so it turns on when your key is on, or go a step further and wire it with an oil pressure switch so if you roll your wagon or stall out it wont keep pumping, and then go with new/existing fuel lines as needed with 2 in line filters (one before the pump and one before the carb).
I chose to go with the e pump as full time, and did allllllll new lines and fittings and filters. not only does this mitigate the vapor lock issue by pressurizing the fuel and keeping the bowls full before the engine is running, but it also allowed me to run the lines wayyyyy the hell away from ANY heat source, and i went with braided stainless lines that are way bigger (3/8ths) and way more durable.
its like you can do it the $50 way of the $200 way.