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Unread 05-23-2012, 10:35 PM   #11461
PolkaPower
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1998 ZJ 
 
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Oh and this


http://bringatrailer.com/2012/05/23/...gladiator-4x4/

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Unread 05-23-2012, 11:40 PM   #11462
Powrjunkey
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318 power- 230hp/300ft/lbs.
4.0 power-190hp/235ft/lbs
360 power- 245hp/345ft/lbs

If you're going to do the swap, skip the 318, and do a 360. For the power gains, it's the way to go. Or spend the money and bypass all the work and salvaging of parts an supercharge it. Stay below 10 psi on stock configuration and you can expect minimal issues. Start increasing boost or adding nitrous and you're looming for problems. There should be no issues with 5-8 psi on stock components. Stock compression ratio is 9-9.4:1 range so it won't get too crazy and you may even be able to get away with mid grade gas and not premium. 3-4k and a Saturday afternoon for supercharge or 1500-3000 for all the 360 stuff and probably two weekends or more of intense work/modification for less than 100 HP/tq difference between the two. Plus the charger can be easily removed back to stock for sell of vehicle.
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Unread 05-24-2012, 12:06 AM   #11463
PolkaPower
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Powrjunkey View Post
318 power- 230hp/300ft/lbs.
4.0 power-190hp/235ft/lbs
360 power- 245hp/345ft/lbs

If you're going to do the swap, skip the 318, and do a 360. For the power gains, it's the way to go. Or spend the money and bypass all the work and salvaging of parts an supercharge it. Stay below 10 psi on stock configuration and you can expect minimal issues. Start increasing boost or adding nitrous and you're looming for problems. There should be no issues with 5-8 psi on stock components. Stock compression ratio is 9-9.4:1 range so it won't get too crazy and you may even be able to get away with mid grade gas and not premium. 3-4k and a Saturday afternoon for supercharge or 1500-3000 for all the 360 stuff and probably two weekends or more of intense work/modification for less than 100 HP/tq difference between the two. Plus the charger can be easily removed back to stock for sell of vehicle.
No point for a 360 if he isn't going to mess with it. It would yield more power if he stroked it or put boost on it but the 318 is really a great engine. Not too much difference in TQ which is what a truck should be measured in. My 360 sucks gas like a porn star sucks lolipops. My old 318 with headers, mopar computer, full exhaust, and intake got better mileage. Not to mention had gobs of power. If I did that to this truck though it would be ridiculous. A 318 in a smaller lighter CJ would be way more than you would need. But this is just an opinion of a Pollack. General rule, the bigger more performance the bigger the problems and more to break. Stay with whats more reliable for trail rigs. Also mine makes more heat than my old 318. I really couldn't image and 360 in a wrangler being great for more than just a little bit until you used it for hours in the mountains.
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Unread 05-24-2012, 12:09 AM   #11464
ksturgio
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I'm a fan of the exhaust intake and tune method. In my experience of making a potent motor I've always gone way out of my budget then had to skimp on parts. I ended up with a iffy barn burner. If you want to go fast buy a fast car or become good friends with Khris. If I can sell my truck I will be buying a cheap fairly fast car.
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Unread 05-24-2012, 12:32 AM   #11465
Powrjunkey
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Your 360 is exactly the same motor as the 318! The only difference is bore and stroke. All of the internals from one will bolt right into the other(provided the bore is changed to match) the magnum motors are slightly different than the earlier LA 318/340/360. The only differences were in the heads, intakes, valve train and other minor changes. You could technically do the swap, and then put a carburetor on it and go. It would wreak havoc on the PCM with the trans, but if it's manual, who cares? Other sensor issues come into play along with emissions, but it's hypothetical anyway. I have a feeling the main reason your 360 is a gas hog is because your right foot is heavier now. Remember the only difference is displacement, everything else is exactly the same.
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Unread 05-24-2012, 07:07 AM   #11466
gregaf3
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you guys are so cute, over there arguing over which v8 is better, yet none of them make any power what so ever. The last thing I would do is a complete motor swap for a lousy 55hp (per pwr's numbers).
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Unread 05-24-2012, 09:46 AM   #11467
PolkaPower
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gregaf3 View Post
you guys are so cute, over there arguing over which v8 is better, yet none of them make any power what so ever. The last thing I would do is a complete motor swap for a lousy 55hp (per pwr's numbers).
It's not about HP Greg it's about torque. HP is for cars. My motor is rated at 345 ft lbs of torque. The cam, bore, and pistons are different as well as the computer tune with much more aggressive timing and higher compression ratio. It's also the best choice if you are going to add mods as it will respond the best with most gains. I don't see the point though. It's already a beast. I haven't been it a situation where I needed more torque than that. Unless you are building it for the track which I have seen these 5.9's run the quarter in under 13 sec.

Also, if you are talking hp, just think for a minute how much money it costs to add 55 hp to any vehicle. It's actually a lot of hp. with intake, headers, exhaust, an TB you have spent over a thousand dollars and are no where near a 55 hp gain.

Why would you want to put a carburated motor in a newer vehicle is beyond me though. My high flow custom radiator cap really opened up the motor though I can feel the difference.
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Unread 05-24-2012, 10:25 AM   #11468
ksturgio
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The cheapest, easiest way for more power is ditch the weight. Take everything out that isn't necessary and you will have a faster more efficient car. I know YSB takes a lot of equipment everywhere. His is necessary but it all adds up.
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Unread 05-24-2012, 10:32 AM   #11469
PolkaPower
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ksturgio View Post
The cheapest, easiest way for more power is ditch the weight. Take everything out that isn't necessary and you will have a faster more efficient car. I know YSB takes a lot of equipment everywhere. His is necessary but it all adds up.
Weight reduction, hauls butt.
picture-11.jpg  
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Unread 05-24-2012, 10:47 AM   #11470
gregaf3
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here is some food for thought for you guys who say getting hp is expensive...

for $549 (my buddy works for malone so I can get it cheaper) I can get my 2.0 tdi in my wife's VW within 15 ft lbs torque of that precious V8.
http://malonetuning.com/?page_id=564

Granted this is on a boosted car, but still. It shows just how much the factory detunes these motors for longevity and emissions. To get 55 hp out a N/A car is hard to do. It does often require cam/head work... which in turn required building up the bottom end to hold the additional power.

While the 3.8 in my Jeep is a slug, it does make decent power for the platform. The main issue by far is the crappy 90's technology auto transmission behind it. I could not imagine driving this thing with anything lower than 4.10 gears. Right now I am just in a crappy position upgrade wise because nobody has been able to crack the ecu to reprogram it on the 2011+ Jeeps. Heck RIPP gave up on it and just started adding another injector for more fuel.

The main problem is if you want to pass emissions in most states, esp with obdII you can only upgrade to a newer engine. For example you cannot take your 2001 wrangler and put in a mid 90's engine. At least not if you want to pass. However if you want to take a new Hemi/magnum engine or even a newer LS engine everything is fine. With these new rules that many states have mandated, this is why it is so expensive to get a drivetrain out of the junkyard on newer cars.
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Unread 05-24-2012, 11:14 AM   #11471
PolkaPower
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It's also apples and oranges. A boosted diesel motor will out perform in tq numbers all day long with ease. If they made a diesel motor for the ZJ's I would have been all over it. They did for a euro model but I have read less than stellar reviews about that.

Look at the old diesel Swiss military wagons. 90hp 200ft lbs of torque. Any diesel motor will make at least twice the torque to hp it has. Look at the cummins diesel specs. 400 hp and 1250 ft lbs of tq.
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Unread 05-24-2012, 11:23 AM   #11472
Raptor0206
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how about yall just pay me to put in a 5.3 4l60e into your tj's
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Unread 05-24-2012, 11:39 AM   #11473
sirhk100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ksturgio View Post
If you want to go fast buy a fast car or become good friends with Khris.
I'm not a motor fast guy. I just can do chassis and suspension to make your toy go pretty fast in the dirt!

But... this is my garage as of last night. It's going to be there for MONTHS so unfortunately I'm not accepting applications at this time. LOL (yes, i've got the worst camera phone in history but you get the idea!)

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Unread 05-24-2012, 01:39 PM   #11474
dmgiff
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gregaf3 View Post
you guys are so cute, over there arguing over which v8 is better, yet none of them make any power what so ever. The last thing I would do is a complete motor swap for a lousy 55hp (per pwr's numbers).
I would just like to be able to do the speed limit up a hill with a headwind. As far as weight, I don't know how much difference it would really make, but it doesn't matter because I don't have anything that isn't essential on my Jeep. Not like I can start drilling holes and ditching the bumpers and stuff.
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Unread 05-24-2012, 01:40 PM   #11475
MMCKEIG
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Your camera phone makes your garage look like a sauna! haha

btw, speaking of diesel jeeps, check this out

http://www.expeditionportal.com/vehi...n-america.html
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