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Unread 02-28-2012, 06:23 PM   #6301
YouStupidBunny
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I just checked the site I bought it from and it looks like there is a lifetime warranty. Really surprised by that since it looks like all the others like Borla and Magnaflow stopped offering the lifetime warranty.

I need to find my invoice for the waranty and it's been ten months since I bought it. The site also says it doesn't cover shipping. I imagine a heavy manifold might cost around $40 to ship and if they want the busted one shipped back, it might not be worth the warranty since it's only a $90 part.

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Unread 02-28-2012, 06:25 PM   #6302
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http://www.1aauto.com/1A/ExhaustMani...EM00026/260661

That's the one I bought. I'm concerned that if it cracked in just 10 months, the replacement would crack soon after too. This isn't something I want to do every year.

Also, is it ok to drive with the crack? Other than annoyingly loud, I'm not going to break anything else, am I?
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Unread 02-28-2012, 06:40 PM   #6303
Puck81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YouStupidBunny
http://www.1aauto.com/1A/ExhaustMani...EM00026/260661

That's the one I bought. I'm concerned that if it cracked in just 10 months, the replacement would crack soon after too. This isn't something I want to do every year.

Also, is it ok to drive with the crack? Other than annoyingly loud, I'm not going to break anything else, am I?
Yeah! Dont drive it at all! You can blow the spezek seal in the head!!
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Unread 02-28-2012, 06:40 PM   #6304
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Not looking good. The manifold was replaced when I replaced the motor. I had it shipped to the shop and I don't have the invoice that was shipped with it. I'm not very confident they'll honor the warranty.
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Unread 02-28-2012, 06:41 PM   #6305
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Puck81 View Post
Yeah! Dont drive it at all! You can blow the spezek seal in the head!!
That's not real, is it?

Seriously, it's ok around town, right?
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Unread 02-28-2012, 06:51 PM   #6306
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haha.... the only thing a manifold leak can break is you can burn your exhaust valves but the leak would have to be close to the head and pretty big.... i have welded manifolds before its never pretty but you can get them to seal if anything sand it down and fill her with JB weld and let it sit for a day should hold long enough to get a new one.... now for pucks issues
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Unread 02-28-2012, 06:54 PM   #6307
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I've used that metal putty stuff. It was only good for a few days before it burned off into a white dust. The crack looks like it is where all the tubes collect. I imagine that's the hottest part.

I'll give the place a call tomorrow and see if they are willing to help with the warranty. If not, if it won't break anything, I'll just skip the welding and just wait for a replacement part. No need to pull the manifold out twice.
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Unread 02-28-2012, 06:56 PM   #6308
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hey puck one quick check you may wanna do is pull the oil fill cap and look at it... if theres a huge amount of booger looking goop on it you prob have a blown head... the issues you discribe sound way to much like a heat issue not a cab issue carbs will run like crap all the time not just when hot.... now that being said also look at your fuel lines make shure they are not running close to an exhaust manifold or real close to the engine block that could cause the great vapor lock... if you dont have it figured out by sat hit me up i can prob swing by and take a look at it see what i can come up with... i hate carbs with a passion and my "rebuild" has always been unbolt one turn around drop in trash bolt new one on so i wont be much help there but i will be able to tell you if that is your issue
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Unread 02-28-2012, 07:00 PM   #6309
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YouStupidBunny View Post
I've used that metal putty stuff. It was only good for a few days before it burned off into a white dust. The crack looks like it is where all the tubes collect. I imagine that's the hottest part.

I'll give the place a call tomorrow and see if they are willing to help with the warranty. If not, if it won't break anything, I'll just skip the welding and just wait for a replacement part. No need to pull the manifold out twice.
... i have put old cat engine blocks with 4-5" cracks down them back together with JB weld its all about prep and patience the white exhaust cement is crap dont use that but JB weld would be a perm fix in fact its strong enough the manifold would rip around it not through it if it cracked again
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Unread 02-28-2012, 07:05 PM   #6310
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lasvjeep

... i have put old cat engine blocks with 4-5" cracks down them back together with JB weld its all about prep and patience the white exhaust cement is crap dont use that but JB weld would be a perm fix in fact its strong enough the manifold would rip around it not through it if it cracked again
I'll second that. But be sure to do something with the crack. Extra air will cause your exhaust bearing to vibrate loose.
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Unread 02-28-2012, 07:07 PM   #6311
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I'm game for what ever trails sound fun to you guys. Just let me know
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Unread 02-28-2012, 07:08 PM   #6312
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if my parts show up im down for a run sat... they are in PA todayt ho according to tracking so im guessing i will be a no go this weekend
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Unread 02-28-2012, 07:09 PM   #6313
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lasvjeep
if my parts show up im down for a run sat... they are in PA todayt ho according to tracking so im guessing i will be a no go this weekend
I have an open seat.
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Unread 02-28-2012, 07:15 PM   #6314
Lasvjeep
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but then you will make me cry riding in a real CJ
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Unread 02-28-2012, 07:16 PM   #6315
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adams1985cj

I'll second that. But be sure to do something with the crack. Extra air will cause your exhaust bearing to vibrate loose.
You guys are full of crap!!! The exhaust bearing is BEHIND the muffler bearing, so the air from the manifold won't cause it to vibrate loose. Even so, jut spray some blinker fluid on it and it will seal better than jb weld anyhow. (some people actually ask for this stuff at auto parts stores, too funny)
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